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LCA welded nut broken in subframe

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  • LCA welded nut broken in subframe

    Hey all. :cry_smile: Seems the previous owner's mechanic broke the LCA nut in the subframe.

    I have a FSM to guide me through removing components, and most of the necessary tools to repair.

    Has anyone had to deal with this issue?

    Where did you have to cut the frame to get a good weld?
    Last edited by purg3d; 09-04-2012, 01:38 PM.

  • #2
    You don't have to weld it. You can weld a finger on the nut so it doesn't spin. The nut must be shrunk a little to fit into the pocket (the original is square). At least that's what I plan on doing to mine before retagging. Or you can cut an access hole near the area and weld it then fill the hole.

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    • #3
      I think many of us have woken up in cold sweats after nightmares about this ( okay, maybe just me). There is a hole under there that you could possibly fit your fingers in to hold a nut while you tighten the bolt, otherwise, you're looking at some surgery and fabrication to get things right.
      Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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      • #4
        no need to repair the weld. If it is all the way off...you can reach through one of the openings in the frame with a lock nut and start it on the end of the bolt and tighten. Had to do that one one of my cars one time. Lasted for years till I sold it and as far as I know it is still on the road.

        I did it without cutting any extra holes or anything...just to clarify.
        "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
        89L Silver EFI auto
        91GL Green Auto DD
        There ain't no rest for the wicked
        until we close our eyes for good.
        I will sleep when I die!
        I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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        • #5
          Many threads on this site over the years about that nut and bolt. Best solution to removing frozen bolt seems to be cut it off with a reciprocating saw. Not easy to line up to reinstall but I find a jack under the torsion bar helps.
          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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          • #6
            In our case, the weld didn't break but the threads on the welded nut were stripped completely.

            I ended up drilling straight through the welded nut, and adding an extra bolt on the backside. Only problem is a wrench wont fit in that hole.... Solution?

            We just stick a giant screwdriver in the hole and pry between the frame-rail and nut to hold everything in place. It sure isn't pretty, but it works, kinda...
            #33 Ford Festiva "We Are Not Really From Iran" - 24-Hours of LeMons 3x Trophy Winner & Class B Winner

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            • #7
              Thanks everyone. Didn't really know what I was looking at. The nut is boxed in a housing within the subframe. Pulled the bolt out. I'll get a longer one and a good lock nut.

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              • #8
                If the nut with broken bolt is still there it can be pounded out with a punch. I got a new bolt and nut at Advance. You don't want to use a locknut because it will be even harder to hold.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by purg3d View Post
                  Thanks everyone. Didn't really know what I was looking at. The nut is boxed in a housing within the subframe. Pulled the bolt out. I'll get a longer one and a good lock nut.
                  Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                  If the nut with broken bolt is still there it can be pounded out with a punch. I got a new bolt and nut at Advance. You don't want to use a locknut because it will be even harder to hold.
                  the lock nut I was referring to is the nut with the flange built into it with the aerated lines in it. You can hand tighten until it grabs then it will not spin as you tighten the bolt.
                  "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                  89L Silver EFI auto
                  91GL Green Auto DD
                  There ain't no rest for the wicked
                  until we close our eyes for good.
                  I will sleep when I die!
                  I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I have a vehicle with the same problem. Original owner used a 1 inch hole saw to make an access hole in the frame in order to hold the, or a, nut while the bolt is being tightened. You'd think this would moderately weaken the frame but 5 years later everything works and is still intact.

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                    • #11
                      This is what I did-
                      Discuss improvements to your Festiva or Aspire in the handling, braking, wheels and tires areas.
                      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                      • #12
                        Assuming your subframe does not look like the one in the previous pics, I suggest using a 7/8" hole saw to cut thru the frame near the nut. Then use a drill the same size as the bolt and drill thru the old nut from the front. Then get a longer bolt and put a nut on it thru 7/8" hole.

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                        • #13
                          I have new found respect for the flange nut, and will forever keep an assortment nearby.

                          Nitrofarm, that's an awesome repair job. Pictures say a thousand words. Fortunately this repair wasn't as complicated.

                          The tip of my finger, however, is busted from that 3/8" hole i needed to traverse to get the nut threaded. Once enough bolt came through, the housing broke out and I retrieved the old square nut.

                          Lucky break. Flange nut is secure and the front passenger suspension 'knock' is hopefully on its way to being solved. Thanks everyone!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by purg3d View Post
                            I have new found respect for the flange nut, and will forever keep an assortment nearby.

                            Nitrofarm, that's an awesome repair job. Pictures say a thousand words. Fortunately this repair wasn't as complicated.

                            The tip of my finger, however, is busted from that 3/8" hole i needed to traverse to get the nut threaded. Once enough bolt came through, the housing broke out and I retrieved the old square nut.

                            Lucky break. Flange nut is secure and the front passenger suspension 'knock' is hopefully on its way to being solved. Thanks everyone!
                            Glad you got it done welcome to the forum btw
                            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                            Comment

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