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  • Trailer Build thread

    So, this is the build thread for my trailer for the trip mentioned in this thread: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...of-a-Lifetime!

    As I said in the intro thread, this is not something I have experience with, so i am hoping for help and suggestions. I decided on a 5 foot wide trailer because the festiva rear bumper is 5 feet wide. Kind of keeps the wind drag down a bit and I won't have to think so hard about where the trailer is while driving and sightseeing. Looked at 8 foot long ones and liked them for their size and weight. Then looked at it more and realized that there isn't enough room for 2 kids to sleep in there with us or enough room for what we want to bring. So we have to go with 5x10. I am a bit worried about that attracting more attention than an 8 foot from dot or police, but I will do my best to keep everything kosher. I had an idea to make a trailer where the roofline was even with the festiva roofline to cut down on wind drag and have it pop up quick from inside to use when stopped. Thats a lot of building, bit heavy, and takes time to set up and take down every time. Also less storage space. So I rented a covered u-haul trailer that was 8ft long, 5 feet wide and 5ft high inside, 6ft6in high from ground to roof. I did that to see how the festiva would pull a covered trailer, as there is a lot of wind drag. Most covered trailers are taller than that though, so this has less drag than what I would end up buying- However most regular trailers are lighter than the u-haul. The 5x8x 6.5 tall inside dimension ones i looked at were 800 pounds and this shorter u-haul is 900 pounds empty.
    I figured I had better pick it up with my 2002 honda civic to avoid any issues with u-haul. The civic hated it. I had an hour drive home with it from the rental shop and with a headwind the civic couldn't do 70mph in 5th. Not even close, it was half throttle in 4th gear. My oil temperature in it usually levels off at 210f after 20 min of freeway driving in that car at the ambient temperature it was. As soon as I got on the freeway it did a steady and fast climb to 250f, eventually hitting 260f. My mechanical temperature gauge recently broke and the ones on the dash of that gen of civic don't work, so I don't know what that was at. With a crosswind i could do 62mph in 5th almost floored, With a tailwind it was like the trailer wasn't there. I went home and put another 7-800 pounds in it and went for a drive. It affected the speeding up and braking slightly, but not how much throttle was needed while cruising at all, thats all wind drag. When i got back home from that I think the head gasket blew in my civic. It blew all the coolant out of the radiator and filled the overflow bottle. Took another gallon of coolant plus what was in the reservoir to fill the rad back up. So I parked it and hooked up the Festiva thinking there is no way this is going to work. I filled my festiva up with weight, 5 gallon jugs of water, a transmission, all sorts of tools, steel rims... and hooked up the 900 pound trailer. To my suprise the festiva pulled it almost as well as the civic! In the same headwind it was also in 4th gear at just over half throttle, crosswind was almost floored in 5th and tailwind was like it almost wasnt there. I was shocked, the civic has 115 hp, almost double my festiva! Yet the Festiva pulled almost as well and it is happy to rev high all day whereas the civic hates to work. Coolant temperature never went up with the fan off (its on a switch) and I used an IR temperature gun on the oil and it was not hot. Then I got my bigger suprise, I believe it stops the trailer faster than the civic! At the very least just as fast. And i have all brand new drums, rotors, pads and shoes on the civic. Couldn't believe it... Both cars were quite stable if i jerked the wheel around or swerved at 60mph. I drove quite a ways to find some big hills, 4th gear is adequite up most, keeps it above 52-54mph, but on the steepest ones it runs out of steam pretty quick in 4th. If i shift into 3rd at 50mph I could still speed up up any hill I found, even if just slightly, I was still speeding up. I went a couple hundred kilometers, then brought it back to u-haul with my festiva because i didnt have time to figure out what was up with the civic. That went well, does 70mph no problem, u-haul guys- they just thought it was funny.
    So, the festiva normally gets me 50mpg at those temperatures (52-54 in summer) and it dropped to 30.25mpg with the u-haul. Thats pretty good considering I had it floored most of the time in 5th and had it in 4th and 3rd a lot just doing the biggest hills we have within an hour radius around here. That is a 40% drop in fuel milage. My civic however only towed it home on the flat and it normally gets 44mpg and that dropped to about 21.5mpg, a 50% drop! I may as well drive a pickup with an extended bed for that kind of fuel milage... Anyway, I also took my 4x6 trailer with short sides and loaded it up with about 900 pounds total. then i put a piece of plywood on the front that was 5 feet wide and as high as the roofline of the festiva. It was harder to tow than the u-haul, I got 29.6mpg with it.

    That day wasnt too warm, only 17 celcius and sunny, thats 63f. So a few days later it was +31c out (88f) so I quickly came home from work and headed out with my trailer which was still loaded up to test out the cooling system of the festiva. It got hotter than I was comfortable with and I presumed I would need a bigger radiator, but after that on +30 days my temperature would run in the same spot as when towing just driving empty to work. My conclusion was that the problem is the thermostat, I have a hot one installed. I will order a dual element one and re-test. The one I have always runs the temp over half even in -35c. With the fan on in third gear floored going up long steep hills the temperature never got above where it now sits while I drive empty- though it was 2/3 of the way up. With my IR temp gun my best guess of coolant temperature was 220f with the needle 2/3 of the way up, 195f with the needle just a hair over half. Oil pan temperature matched coolant temperature very well, it never went over, I pulled over lots to check temps, especially at the tops of long hills. So I dont think I have to worry about an oil cooler on the car. I have an oil temperature gauge on my civic and compared its readings to the IR gun on its oil pan and they seem to match pretty close. There was a noticable power loss going from +17 air to +30 degree air. Like very noticable, lol. On the way home I pulled over and removed the plywood from the front of the trailer. After that it was still noticable that I had the trailer to speed up and slow down but cruising was exactly the same as with no trailer, exact same reading on the vaccum gauge as empty driving to work. So all that was slowing me down before was wind drag, just a piece of wood sticking up like that is worse than a long box.

    I read some about trailer aerodynamics, looked at how to build them better a bit and decided we had to go with a shorter trailer, it will be way easier on the car and myself while driving on this trip. Also at 30mpg and fuel at $1/L its $2900 on gas. If I get it up to 40mpg that saves me $800 in fuel as well as being easier on the car and my attention, noise level is lower with less time spent in 4th and 3rd gear... I think I could pull a full size enclosed 5x10 but I don't think i want to. It would be so nice for no set up or take down time, but I don't think that outweighs the disadvantage of drivability. Also it would catch more crosswind. So I had been looking at trailers back in december and they were fairly plentiful and cheap. Now there are not very many and they are pretty pricey. Not many people selling them for much less than new price, so I haven't bought one yet. Also I want one that is as light as possible, lots of heavy ones out there.

  • #2
    I don't describe things well so see below for pictures when my description gets confusing. I plan to buy a very lightweight 5x10 trailer, build sides on it that are 3ft 6 in high with a split at 2 ft up the side so there is 2ft on the bottom half and 1.5ft on the top half. That depends on the deck hight of the trailer I get, I want the roof of the trailer to be even with the roof of the car while lowered. Then I want to be able to lift up the top section and stick kind of legs in there so That we can stand up in it. I think I am 5ft10 and my wife is 6ft, so they would have to be about 2ft 6ish tall. Then I would have some type of canvas attached to between the top and bottom halves that would fold up into a little shelf thing on the outside of the trailer when its lowered. On the inside I would have a 20.5inch space down the length of each side for storage, 2 feet at the front. That leaves 18 inches in the middle for walking. I would put plywood 2 feet high to divide the storage areas to keep everything neat. Then have 5 ft long 1x4 bed slats that could be in the middle while towing, but to sleep would lay overtop of plywood storage divider sides and we could inflate the air mattress on top of it. On the front of the trailer I will build something to house the propane tank, gerry can of gas, spare tire for car and trailer, battery and probably the showering unit. want to weld some kind of jacks to the back of the trailer for leveling so it doesn't rock much while sleeping at night. I plan to frame it with 2x2's and use probably 1/4in plywood on the outside. Then glue 1/16th thick plastic to the outside for protection and waterproofing. I can get 4x8 sheets for $15 I think.
    I havent figured out to well what I will do on the back of the trailer. For aerodynamics you kind of extend the sides past the actual back of the trailer, reduces drag a lot. I can do that then attach some type of screen or canvas tent-like stuff to the inside of it to extend our bug and rain free trailer useage area. I had been thinking about attaching a tarp to the back that would roll up like an awning so we could cook outside even in the rain. I had the idea of making a plywood floor below the trailer that I could pull out and put canvass over almost like a tent to make the effective area of our trailer 5 feet longer or something. I also need to bring our bikes somehow, thought of attaching the bike rack to a receiver i could build in the back of the trailer, then moving it to another receiver on the side of the trailer when parked but then if its raining when we stop thats a pain to move. I really dont know where to put the bikes yet.

    Inside the trailer we need to store all our cooking gear, stove, utensils, pots, toaster and all that. We need at least 2 coolers to store food, one if not both will be powered. Water for drinking as well as jugs to hold shower water. Diapers for the kids Clothes for all of us, enough for a week including warm clothes, raingear... (temperatures can range from 32f to 105f, snow, rain, sun wind and bugs over these 3 months where we are travelling). Inflatable boat, motor, lifejackets and paddles. 25 pound Propane, 20 litre gerry can of gasoline. Air matress, sheets, matress topper, pillows, kids matresses, electric air pump. Folding chairs, kids toys, towels and soap for showering. Thats a fair bit of stuff...

    I am planning to run wires with dc power from my car battery to the battery in the trailer. Then have some dc outlets in the trailer for chargers, electric air pump, powered coolers and stuff. I will keep all the lights in the trailer 12volts. I will also run 120v ac power from the inverter in the car to the trailer and probably just have one outlet for whatever we might need in there.

    I have to come up with some ideas for saving weight. My current plan for the trailer build comes to about 950 pounds, then everything I want to put in it is about 1000 pounds. I would like to keep the trailer to 1700 pounds max, so its the same weight as the festiva. If I take the bikes off the trailer, no battery, no big tent-just one for the kids, no boat motor that brings it to 775 pounds for a total of 1725 pounds. I do want all that stuff however, so I need to look at saving weight on the trailer build. Maybe 1/8 plywood instead of 1/4, aluminum framing instead of 2x2 wood, maybe all aluminum? I dont know. I feel that the festiva can pull a much heavier load as well as stop it but I am worried about the frame of the festiva if I go any heavier. Any thoughts? Can the frame handle more? If anyone is wondering about braking I wrote about that in the car build thread.

    Once i find a trailer and buy it I think I will buy some osb and made a quick mock-up of the outer dimensions of what I want to build then throw some weight in it and see how it pulls and what kind of fuel mileage I get.

    On the front I want to do something to connect the car to the trailer and get rid of the car-trailer gap. Havent figured that out yet.

    I have no idea how I will do the rear door since this thing splits in half.





    found some good hills!



    The basic idea of covering the car-trailer gap to improve aerodynamics.


    Comment


    • #3
      some quick sketches, I suck at drawing as well as describing things...










      photobucket wont let me rotate photos right now, I will have to try to fix it later

      So, here is a list of supplies I am looking at buying. If you happen to live within a few hours of us or are going to Westiva and want to sell me something on this list that would be cool! The more expensive it is the farther I am willing to travel if you have a good deal.

      * 5x10 trailer that is lightweight
      * trailer stabilizing jacks for the rear
      * canvas for the sides
      * water storage jugs for the showers. Not sure yet if I will look for the type that mounts under the trailer.
      * trailer lighting including 12v interior lighting
      * spare car battery in good shape. preferably a sealed one so we can use it with the boat
      * spandex
      * industrial velcro
      * super high quality and stretchy bungee cords
      * Ideas, I need lots of ideas

      here is the link to my car build thread: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...d=1#post717257
      Last edited by ryanprins13; 05-23-2016, 09:07 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by TominMO View Post
        Ryan, IIRC you mentioned some huge tongue load like 200-250 lbs. Two reasons why that would not work:
        1. the constant bouncing would likely cause a shear force that would weaken if not break the fasteners holding the bumper on, and/or where the hitch is mounted to the body as well.
        2. that much force pushing down the rear suspension would make the front end dangerously light. You could not safely steer, a safety issue greatly magnified by the load drastically exceeding the vehicle's basic design.

        The solution would be simply to balance the load in the trailer so that you have a lighter tongue weight. My rule of thumb is that I need to be able to pick up the tongue of the fully-loaded trailer with one hand; I guesstimate at 50-75 lbs is good.

        Trailer weight:
        5 x 8 steel = 274 lbs
        + 6 sheets of plywood to enclose the 5x8, you then have a 4' high, 5' wide, 8' long enclosed trailer (rear 4x4 panel is hinged to be a door). Total build weight on the 4x8 steel = ~450 lbs. Maybe 500 if you put wooden shelving in the trailer for easier organization. You would have some plywood left over, for shelving. I have built a 4x8 trailer just like this, without internal shelving, in a few hours.

        Decide you will only take what you can fit into this trailer (you could put light weatherproof stuff on top too), or into the car itself. This will drastically reduce your towed weight and its inherent issues. (This does not mean you can skip the brake and suspension upgrades tho.)
        The trailer weight and tongue weight I mentioned in this thread were the maximum I was willing to go. That was 1700 pounds and 170 pounds tongue weight. When I first did my rough weight calculations thats is what I came to so I was confident I would be able to do this. I am sure I will be able to reduce the weight from my first draft with careful planning and research. The (very old) rule of thumb was a car can tow its own weight and since I have towed 1000 pounds no problem before I figured this was a do-able maximum.
        I will detail my hitch design later, but I bought a new rear steel bumper, I will weld a hitch to the tow hooks as well as it and weld the hitch not only to the bottom of the bumper but also have a bracket going up the back face. Then I will probably either bolt the bumper to the car better than it is or weld it as well as bolt it.
        For steering 170 pounds on the tongue isnt a huge deal. It becomes a big deal when you hit large or awkward bumps around corners and the trailer transfers more weight forward. Proper rear suspension as well as matching front suspension should prevent any issues from that.
        I think its important to stick to at least 10% tongue weight for trailer stability. If someone can prove to me that less is also safe I am open to that though.

        So I had a bit of a stressful week and ended up buying a trailer. I would not recommend anyone buying a trailer from Lowes, that was a nightmare, but whatever. It was more than I wanted to spend, but nothing good has been coming up online. Everything in the classifieds was used trailers for the price of new or more. Not a lot of 5x10 either. So lowes had a $1500 trailer 'on sale' for $1200. Sale ended the day I saw it so I had to decide then and I went for it. The trailer is almost just what I wanted except for: more money, axle is a bit far back and the tires probably need to be upgraded.
        So for weight- Lowes claims it is 700 pounds. I haven't weighed the axles yet. The wood decking is 360 pounds if you calculate the weight of treated lumber for 50 square feet. Take 40 pounds off that for gaps and just to be safe and we have 320 pounds. I am cutting the ramp and sides off and I guess them to total 70 pounds. That leaves me with a 310 pound trailer.

        The tongue is too heavy, with the ramp folded forward or down the tongue is 110 pounds. Thats 16% of the trailer weight. I believe the axle is too far back for what I want to do But i will do a lot of research before moving the axle forward if thats needed. That can wait, I think I should build the trailer first and see what the weight loaded with our stuff is like in the end before considering moving the axle last thing.

        The trailer towed home nicely. Vaccum reading on my gauge was only 1-2in HG lower than with no trailer. Still got 51.5mpg on that tank after pulling the trailer home 50km at 70mph (thats the speed limit on the freeway I take home). My 4x6 trailer with 900 pounds gives me the same vaccum reading as empty because it fits inside the back of the car. The trailer I just bought has the deck inside the back area of the car but the fender flares and wheels are completely out past the side of the car and I think thats what caused the slightly increased wind drag. If you look back at the photos of the VW pulling the aero trailer you'll see their trailer has fender flares that are supposedly more aerodynamic. I may try something like that.

        The bottom of the deck of this trailer is 14.5 inches off the ground when level. So 15 1/4 with 3/4in plywood. The floor in the back of a stock hight festiva is 15.5 inches off the ground so that matches up nicely. The back of the festiva will drop with the weight, but the hight the top of my ball needs to be to keep the trailer level is 12 inches and its 15 with no load, doesn't drop to 12 with 110 pounds so the trailer is tilted up. I will have to see if I can fix that when I build a Hitch. I believe I want the trailer level, any opinions on level, pointing up or pointing down is better?

        The tires are only rated for 1100 pounds each, which technically is ok, but if were driving when its +40 out on hot pavement with up to a 1700 pound trailer which could be loaded slightly heavier on one side than the other I'm not so sure I trust that. I will look at better tires and see what is available. If I can find shorter tires with a higher weight rating that may benefit me by giving me a lower deck hight and increasing the hight I can have my trailer closed.

        Just something on wind drag- wind blowing on something actually increases its mass quite a bit. Think of holding a sheet of plywood in a strong wind. Your weight doesn't change but the force of the wind on the plywood becomes a large mass that given enough wind you cannot support. Say you put a 10ftx10ft garden shed on a trailer and pull it with a truck. The trailer and shed only weigh 5000 pounds lets say but the force of the wind on that shed could perhaps triple the mass you are pulling and the force on the ball from the trailer. Whereas the same trailer with a bunch of flat steel on it would still be 5000 pounds rather than 15,000 like with the shed. I am just guessing with these numbers by the way, But when you think about it it makes sense. When I pulled the u-haul thats 5th gear floored or 4th gear half throttle to pull a 900 pound trailer that sticks 2ft above the cars roofline. The same 900 pounds in a trailer that fits nicely behind the car is no different at cruising speed than driving with no trailer. So making a trailer that is aerodynamic and fits well behind the car reduces the pulling force on the hitch and how hard the car has to work considerably. For braking when you have trailer brakes they take a lot of the force off the hitch while stopping and that is part of the reason I would consider them before a brake swap on the car itself. (although again doing both is not out of the question).

        So I have to plan the trailer now. I figured on 3/4 in treated plywood for the floor. Have to figure out how to do a 5x10 floor well with plywood... Or I may look at welding wire mesh down and using 1/2in or 3/8 plywood. Then for the sides I figured on 1/4in plywood on the outside with 2x2 framing and 1/8th plywood on the inside. An area built on the front for aerodynamics and for storing propane, gasoline and spare tires. Cover all that by gluing 1/16in plastic to it for watertightness. 1/4in plywood for the dividers inside and 1x4s for the bed slats. Add some weight for the canvas and we come to 580 pounds. Add that to the stripped trailer weight and add 30 pounds for the spare tire, 40 for the lights, glue, screws and bolts and we get 970 pounds. I think that is too heavy, I need to look at ways to reduce that. I will start looking at how I would build this out of aluminum or fibreglass or thinner plywood. I look forward to any suggestions.

        The stuff we want to bring and its weights I will detail later after I figure out how to get the trailer lighter. Right now absolutely everything we want to take in the trailer is 892 pounds. Thats 1860 total. Take off the bikes and bike rack its 750. Thats 1720 pounds. Take off the bikes, the boat, its motor and the spare battery and its 650 for 1630 pounds.
        However some weights change. Water is heavy, We plan to take 3 days worth of water which is 87 litres or 190 pounds. As we use it up that gets less. A full 20L gerry can is 35 pounds but in more populated areas I don't need it, in moderately populated areas it could be half full. Propane bottle is 38 pounds full, gets lighter as we use it. I planned on 100 pounds of food, That may be high. I prefer to guess high and have the result low rather than guess low and end up stuck later.

        Anyway, I would love to detail my plans more but I am a slow typer and have a lot of other things to do today. My drawings are still in the pictures above, so you can look at them and offer any suggestions or questions you may have.
        Thanks for your time.

        Comment


        • #5
          This was too long for the last post. Heres the 2 photos
          This is the aero mod I drew on the back of my trailer, would double as a place to store canvas.



          Comment


          • #6
            To get your tongue weight down, you should try to get as much of the total weight as far back as possible, obviously. So I would not recommend making a front storage area for tire/propane; just a thin aero panel setup for decreased drag. Proper weight distribution should do away with the need to move the axle. Tires should be fine, especially since you will not be overheating them with high-speed driving. But a spare, yeah.
            90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
            09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

            You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

            Disaster preparedness

            Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

            Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

            Comment


            • #7
              Did you consider something like the harbor freight trailer I have? Assembled weight for the frame and axle is under 300 lbs and max is like 1800.
              91GL BP/F3A with boost
              13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by bhazard View Post
                Did you consider something like the harbor freight trailer I have? Assembled weight for the frame and axle is under 300 lbs and max is like 1800.
                I looked at the harbor freight site, seems everyone online uses those trailers but I could not find anything similar here in Canada. I didn't think this one was too bad at 320 pounds. The harbor freight is just a frame and axle at 300 pounds and no deck right?

                Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                To get your tongue weight down, you should try to get as much of the total weight as far back as possible, obviously. So I would not recommend making a front storage area for tire/propane; just a thin aero panel setup for decreased drag. Proper weight distribution should do away with the need to move the axle. Tires should be fine, especially since you will not be overheating them with high-speed driving. But a spare, yeah.
                That would be the best, proper loading is key of course, but we cant have propane and gasoline stored in where we are sleeping. I believe I have a solution for that though. Thinking more about it I believe the tires will be fine as well.
                I am spending a lot of time on other forums more dedicated just to trailer building trying to get a plan. Something like these pictures is more what I will be going for now I think. This is a 4ft by 10ft pulled by a large motorbike. Its the same height closed and opened as i want mine.







                here is the website if your interested: http://www.goldbrand.info/motorcykelhusvagn2.html If you go to the homepage there are more details.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Trailer Build thread

                  So, I worked all summer on this trailer. I had a fairly solid plan for a plywood trailer but came across a different method of building trailers that promised to be lighter. I quickly switched my plans to it instead of plywood. There were a few miscalculations and unintended changes of plans along the way and it resulted in this taking hundreds of hours more than I had thought it would. I feel I was a bit mislead by the people on the forum who build these. Promises of ultra light weight, super easy, cheap, last forever and on and on. It took forever, isn't all that light, was super expensive compared to plywood and doesn't look as nice. I needed to have the trailer built by now for this trip to work for 2017 and I am nowhere close. Throwing quick numbers at what I have left to do I am guessing I have about 190 hours of work left. I need the next 7 months for working on the festiva so we will no longer be going in 2017, it will have to be delayed one year until summer 2018. That creates a ton of problems, but hopefully we can work through all that. A plywood trailer would have been slightly heavier but would have been done a while ago, been cheaper and narrower meaning more aerodynamic. I missed something in my planning and had to widen the frame of the trailer which added a lot of weight and took a lot of time.*
                  What I got done is: demolishing the trailer I bought, making it wider, installing a 3500 pound axle with brakes and building the upper and lower half of the trailer.

                  I will add up my hours and costs later, I did weigh it today though, so:
                  -Trailer as i bought it before i cut it up: 607 pounds
                  -Trailer frame after demolishion: 270 pounds (182 decking I removed, 155 metal I removed)
                  -trailer with bottom built, no door, small axle: 100 tongue, 180/tire= 460 pounds. ( minus the trailer frame is 190 pounds for the part I built)
                  -same as above but with the new 3500 pound braked axle and extra welded angle iron. 101 tongue, 238 each axle. 577 pounds total. (Axle and extra angle to widen it added 110 pounds, frame is now 380 pounds)
                  -*Oct*21, 2016 top half built and painted on frame, 233 and 228 pounds on tires, 84 pounds*tongue. 545 pounds total. Minus trailer frame is 165 pounds for the top half. *
                  -I'm at 735 pounds total for the trailer so far.*
                  So while it is light at 355 pounds for a box thats 5ft wide, 7 feet high, 10 feet long and has a 2ft overhang past that all being 1.5 inches thick except the plywood floor it did end up wider so we could still accomodate the air mattress I wanted to use which adds wind drag. That was a huge*disappointment.*


                  So, what I have left to do:

                  -decide what to do for flooring inside trailer
                  -buy metal, latch hooks and ratchet straps,
                  and finish welding flanges on trailer frame and latch points.
                  taillights. decide where they go and weld them on
                  Weld stabilizer jacks on.
                  Weld spare tire carrier
                  -find a water tank
                  -install water tank, weld brackets for it to trailer
                  -check axle weight transfer with*jack stands
                  -decide where axle and fenders will be
                  -move axle ahead and weld it square to the frame
                  -get trailer tires and car tires balanced at the same time
                  -Plan wheel wells, make them, attach to top half of trailer
                  -Cut 1/8*PVC*strips for shimming floor bracing angle iron
                  -glue down strips, tape and bolt down lower half to trailer frame
                  -cut and screw side sliders on top and bottom half of trailer so the top half goes up and down nicely when lifted and lowered.
                  -make supports for top half
                  -install foam seal*
                  -get latches, install latches
                  - decide on hinges, handle and design for doors
                  -make doors *and*door jambs*and install them
                  -plan bridge for car-trailer gap
                  -build bridge for car-trailer gap
                  -plan and make*aero*front nose cone thing
                  -paint lower surface of upper half with*Sherwin*Williams*paint when painting aero front or doors
                  -re-attach*vin*sticker
                  -install flooring in trailer
                  -build dividers in trailer
                  -make sealed container for inside trailer for gas and propane
                  -make bed slats
                  -install screens for sides and doors.*
                  -buy and install door fans
                  -buy and install lights inside and outside trailer
                  -wire interior for 12 and*110v*power*
                  -wire trailer lights and brakes
                  -set up roll up tarp and poles for back
                  -buy spare tire and mount under trailer
                  -fix suspension with*greasable*stuff
                  -plan how to load trailer
                  -test trailer to see how it pulls and weight is distributed before a trip

                  Thats a lot of work, but it will be nice in the end. Here are some photos. The braked axle is mounted under the springs right now, when I move it ahead I will mount it above the springs and that will lower the trailer by 4 inches which will bring the top of the trailer roughly flush with the top of my car.

                  Lower half:




                  upper half that fits over top of the lower half, kinda like an apple box:










                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  Last edited by ryanprins13; 10-21-2016, 10:27 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    This is an amazing project!

                    +1

                    Hints: 1) make sure you have enough tongue weight.
                    2) do NOT use 5th gear for anything!
                    3) consider 65mph your maximum speed, 55mph on down hills
                    4) do not ask how I came up with these hints :O

                    Best of Luck!
                    Green with envy here!
                    No car too fast !

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post
                      This is an amazing project!

                      +1

                      Hints: 1) make sure you have enough tongue weight.
                      2) do NOT use 5th gear for anything!
                      3) consider 65mph your maximum speed, 55mph on down hills
                      4) do not ask how I came up with these hints :O

                      Best of Luck!
                      Green with envy here!
                      Thanks! Its been a lot of work.
                      I plan on keeping a minimum 10% tongue weight, 10-15% of total trailer weight seems to work well. I will take a bathroom scale along so i can be sure of my tongue weight. I have experienced what happens when you dont have enough tongue weight a couple times. :p First time was when i was 14, I would never want to experience that in a festiva!
                      hmm, I was hoping to do 62mph everywhere except up hills, but not faster. :p Is the issue stopping or stability?

                      I tried to send you a message about the 5th gear towing but your inbox is full! I was all ready to buy smaller tires so I could spend more time in 5th, not less, lol.
                      Last edited by ryanprins13; 10-26-2016, 10:20 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Stopping or stability?

                        Could well be both, depending on circumstances. Less chance of wobble, either up/down or side-to-side, at lower speeds.

                        Plus you will get measurably better gas mileage at 55 vs 62. When I was doing MPG testing on my stock B3, 55 mph gave me 58.0 mpg, and 60 mph gave me 52.5 mpg. Dropping it to 45 mph in 5th gear only brought mileage up to 62.5 mpg, so 55 mph is a reasonable sweet spot for mileage.
                        90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                        09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                        You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                        Disaster preparedness

                        Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                        Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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