Aspire rear brake bleed issues

[TominMO]

or you could try these: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
The part number for an Aspire front or rear is SB8100 and they are only $7 a piece.

I just ordered these, in stainless, for my Festy rear brakes. I pulled a bleeder screw from a JY Festy and took it in to Advance Auto to check the size. Festys are also 8mm x 1.00 pitch.

Note that the wrench you need to turn the screw will be somewhere from a 1/4" to 7/16" hex, because they use SAE bleeder screw stock, which they say is far cheaper than metric stock.

[Arnie]

Woohoo, fixed. I'm really not sure how this worked but it did. So I was dragging my heals on working on the bleed, just sitting in the car messing with the e-brake. I decided I needed to adjust the cable. Adjusted it till the e-brake had a fairly short throw. Pressed on the brake pedal and noticed that the pedal was more firm. Hmmm. Then decided to start bleeding. Voila! Rear drums start flowing fluid. After that it was a piece of cake. I'm thinking because the pads weren't close enough to being fully engaged, the pedal wasn't pumping far enough to get fluid going?

Braking performance is truly significantly better than the Festiva. Lots of bite. Pedal feel is pretty decent considering i don't have SS lines and modulation is good.

Thanks for you help gentlemen!

[Arnie]

Yeah, when i installed the Aspire stuff I made sure to watch the fluid and/or cap off exposed lines to keep things from draining completely. The reservoir was never dry. Lowest point it ever got was mid-level. I continuously filled the reservoir at any point that i had the lines "open".

I've tried the Russell before but wasn't too impressed with them. Never seemed to get all the bubbles out as effectively as with ye ol' buddy pumpin' method.

[Festiva_tunner]

Are you suggesting a full bench bleed?

Just like a bench blead but do it on the car - also remember that you've had all four lines off and fluid draining out so as you bleed keep an eye on your resivor level so that it doesnt suck air while your bleeding your drums/calipers

[bravekozak]

speed bleeders

Has anyone exer used Russell speed bleeders?
$10 per pair.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-639550/

You are right, the Aspire takes M8 X 1.0

[Fez]

or you could try these: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
The part number for an Aspire front or rear is SB8100 and they are only $7 a piece.

[FestYboy]

ain't nothing better than a gravity bleed.

[Arnie]

Yeah, i've thought about using a vacuum bleeder if pumping is not working. but i do figure, if the pumping is not working then a vacuum bleeder is not going to help me either. but yes, they do make the job easier when working alone.

[Fez]

I know my local O'reillys offers loaner tools and they have a vacuum brake bleeder. It turns bleeding into a one man job and saves a bunch of time.

[Arnie]

Yeah... Keep bleeding.... Mine took awhile.

yeah, i'll try just opening one bleeder valve and have someone do a single pump. See if anything dribbles out. If not, then I'll try disconnecting where the hard line of the OEM Festiva and the Aspire attach. See what comes out there and then move further down till i hopefully hit paydirt.

Anyone know if Aspire brake lines are readily available new from kragen, etc.?

[Arnie]

Try bleeding at your master cylinder you may have air in it

Are you suggesting a full bench bleed?

[jasonpaulbauer]

Yeah... Keep bleeding.... Mine took awhile.

[Festiva_tunner]

Try bleeding at your master cylinder you may have air in it

[Arnie]

thanks for the insight guys.

yeah, the cylinders move, per se. As in, i can move the piston back and forth by hand. Not sure if they are moving when brake pressure is applied. I'll have to get someone to help me pump while i look at them. But there is no leaking. They are still tight.

I had to bleed alone, but what i did was pump the brakes with a 2x4 and then held it in place by the seat pushed up against it. So, pretty close to like having someone pump and hold. I would never have someone pump while i had the bleed valve open (because you'd get air in the lines each time you released the pedal), so i don't see how i would ever see fluid shoot out. though, at this point, perhaps its worth a shot just to see if any fluid is reaching the brakes from pedal pressure. Perhaps just open the line and have someone pump once.

I was using they typical brake bleed sequence (I hope!) RR, RL, RF, LF.

Master cylinder and brake peformance were fine pre swap. Fluid was always topped off while i was doing the swap, so reservoir was never "dry".

[festivaWES]

On red i found the right rear brake cylinder to be locked up right from rust. Thery are only 6 bucks to replace from rock auto.