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  • #46
    take a picture of the spot and take a measurement of the clearence if there's enough gap I can get you some thick insulating rubber we strip off the 690V cables - that would limit any vibration noise or wear points

    91 L - modified to SLX- "Tin Can Project"
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2850897
    92 GL - parts car
    97 aspire - parts car
    87 323 DX - daily driver

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    Car enthusiasts will respect all makes and models that preform.
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    • #47
      On my car the Aspire bar didnt contact the crossmember, but the front trans mount. I wound up squishing it in a hydraulic press for clearence.
      186,000 miles per second is not just a good idea, it's the law

      1990 yellow L+ (l8ly)
      1990 yellow L+ (sunryz)
      1992 aqua L (agua)
      1993 blue L (aurora)

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      • #48
        Originally posted by hot4dl8ly View Post
        On my car the Aspire bar didnt contact the crossmember, but the front trans mount. I wound up squishing it in a hydraulic press for clearence.
        Got mine on today, with John/Pu241's assistance. Just drove around the parking lot, but oh man it corners a lot flatter!

        Mine ended up the same as yours, touches front trans mount not the crossmember. Decided it's not a problem. Cut off about 3/4" of the lower hose where it enters the rad, which did raise it up enough that it barely touches the sway bar. Decided that this is not an issue either.
        90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
        09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

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        • #49
          srry to be dragging up an old thread but, has anyone else tried anything else along these lines? the threaded rod looks like a good idea but the issue of the od spinning in the hole seems like it would greatly reduce the effect.

          being unfamiliar with the location of the two pairs of holes in the rear beam that were mentioned it would seem that one could use a piece of tubing with a bracket welded on each end and bolt the bracket into both holes. this would allow you to use a hollow tube (for greater torsional resistance with less weight than a solid rod) and would also take care of the issue of the rod spinning in the holes, and would split the difference between the two holes- since it was mentioned that the nearest hole to the wheels would be better to use for some reasons and the neerest to the tube are better for other reasons.

          i think im going to give it a shot, but thought id throw it out there to see what you guys thought.
          Originally posted by scirocco*joe
          Project Car Theorem:
          If
          a) w = all time
          b) x = time spent at work
          c) y = the number of project cars you have
          d) z = amount of time you can spend each project car

          Then

          z = (w - x) / y

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          • #50
            Have a look at my build thread, page three. Link in the sig.
            1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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            • #51
              ahh. thank you sir. excellent pics and lots of detail.

              diggin the front lower tie bar too. great idea!
              Originally posted by scirocco*joe
              Project Car Theorem:
              If
              a) w = all time
              b) x = time spent at work
              c) y = the number of project cars you have
              d) z = amount of time you can spend each project car

              Then

              z = (w - x) / y

              Comment


              • #52
                Ohhh be carefull, my dad did this once and with the vibration the nuts pulled the metal in. It was on a lawnmower though. :S
                93 Ford Festiva WA (project car)
                98 Ford Festiva WF (aspire)(parts car)
                98 "Gloria" Toyota Corolla AE101 (daily driver)

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                • #53
                  yes i have seen that on equipment before as well, and on a strut tower bar i had on my civic back in the day. not just in even, ive seen a steel nut shake its self straight through an aluminum component or two. but a decent torque and a couple of washers can prevent that, as does use of similar metals (steel on steel, alum. on alum., etc.)
                  Originally posted by scirocco*joe
                  Project Car Theorem:
                  If
                  a) w = all time
                  b) x = time spent at work
                  c) y = the number of project cars you have
                  d) z = amount of time you can spend each project car

                  Then

                  z = (w - x) / y

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    I did the rear threaded bar install. I cound not get the 5/8 here on Long Island, NY as the largest they had was 1/2 in 6 foot lenghts. I was able to get it in Loews for $11 and change and another buck for 2 nylon locking nuts. I cut it to 4' 1/2" and had to remove one tire to get it in but it was done in 10 minutes after cutting the rod to size. Nice easy and noticeable project.
                    thanks
                    91 Festiva, BP, auto
                    69 Mercury Cyclone CJ, 428 SCJ, 4 spd

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