Installing new rear struts

[TominMO]

Went out today to paint the inside of the passenger-side axle beam. I previously had bought a universal gun cleaning kit from The World of Wally ($8.00). I took one of the wire brushes for cleaning shotgun bores and screwed it onto one of the extension pieces. I then attached that to my portable drill and knocked off the loose stuff inside the axle. Then I squirted some white paint in there. Made a big difference: black reflectivity vs. white reflectivity. On the driver side I needed a flashlight to see what was going on in there. On this side there is absolutely no need for a flashlight.

[Safety Guy]

Thanks for the ideas, Tom.

Karl

[TominMO]

I'll do that if I can gain access through or around the "wall" Tom described that is on Aspire axle beams. I went out and looked and saw what he meant. I'll see if I can drill a one inch hole somwhere to gain access, but I don't know where until I pull out my bare axle beam from under my tarp to see.

Karl

Two possible reasons that wall is there:
1. to strengthen the axle beam; or
2. Koreans are evil.

I wonder if it's possible to get a nut into place somehow through the access holes for the lower backing plate nuts. Bubble gum on some sort of bendable material, like a coat hanger.

Edit: another idea: cut off the plate on the end of the axle beam. It appears to be there for strengthening. You can replace it with a grade 8 bolt, using three nuts to retain the reinforcing properties of the original piece. This will then give you greater access to that inner wall on the Aspire axle beam. You can then use a hole saw on it.

[TominMO]

My bolts all say "10" on them, that's all.

Tip #1: spray some white paint into the end of the axle beam, for better light reflectivity. It probably won't stay there long, but should help a lot compared to the general blackness in there. Might be able to prep it beforehand somewhat, with a wire brush or something.

Tip #2: One good suspect for the corrosion on the captive nut is those two access holes for the bottom two nuts on the brake backing plate. Try to find some rubber covers to pop into those holes, maybe at the hardware store. Ones like the hole covers in the spare tire well.

Tip #3: I used impact sockets, to take the strain off the edges of the bolt head and thusly help prevent rounding. Thanks for the tip John.

[Safety Guy]

I'll do that if I can gain access through or around the "wall" Tom described that is on Aspire axle beams. I went out and looked and saw what he meant. I'll see if I can drill a one inch hole somwhere to gain access, but I don't know where until I pull out my bare axle beam from under my tarp to see.

Karl

[Pu241]

......I also have a great looking Aspire rear axle beam that has the left side captive nut bent inwards at an unusable angle.

Maybe I'll try to figure out another way to do this, since it won't be as easy as the Festiva axle beam.

Any ideas?

Karl

Take a chisel and hammer and shear that damaged captive nut off.
Think its too tight for a grinder or reciprocating saw.
Then use a flare nut, as above, in its place with some locktite on it.

[Safety Guy]

A long time ago I had a shop put on my control arms. They used REGULAR bolts! In other words, NONRATED for anything. I bought some 8.8s thinking they were appropriate and took them to the shop to have them do it right with the new bolts. (That was on the Mutt, so it's no danger now.)

Thanks for that chart! Since 8.8s are only equivalent to Grade 5, I'll check out getting 10.9s.

I also have a great looking Aspire rear axle beam that has the left side captive nut bent inwards at an unusable angle.

Maybe I'll try to figure out another way to do this, since it won't be as easy as the Festiva axle beam.

Any ideas?

Karl

[Pu241]

If you would prefer someone new point that out to you, I'd be happy to help out.

You're "up there" too!
"new" by butt!

Checked out 4 rear lower strut bolts that I know are OEM:

"SIM 10.T"

Which isn't on my little chart either!

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

I also checked a car with the Aspire swap and know it was done right and those are "10.9".

Running the numbers, a "8.8" isn't a good substitute for a grade 8 bolt.
By the numbers you need a "10.9".
That said, I don't really know if the application, requires that kind of tensile and yield strength.
But I know I'd rather have the better bolts!

[batstiva]

As FB71 points, out I'm old, and your going to make me go down stairs and crawl under one of my festivas to check this out!:p

If you would prefer someone new point that out to you, I'd be happy to help out.

[MTec007]

lol. well my bolts are hard to distinguish the marks so, maybe not you but someone else?

[Pu241]

... festys sit high enough off the ground for someone to crawl under and look without a jack though...

As FB71 points, out I'm old, and your going to make me go down stairs and crawl under one of my festivas to check this out!:p

[batstiva]

Handy info there Tom. I must be really lucky, or something. I've now done LCAs on 3 Festivas, and rear struts on two (all Northern cars) and never had any real problems with these bolts. But that's some handy info to have, just in case.

[MTec007]

mine is all cruddy, i could only barley make out the 8 but i thought it was centered, possibly being the only number, could be wrong.. festys sit high enough off the ground for someone to crawl under and look without a jack though...

[Pu241]

mine has a 8 stamped on the head of it

Don't see a marking "8" only for a metric bolt.
Anyway it might be "8.8"?

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

[MTec007]

mine has a 8 stamped on the head of it