Originally posted by lanemeyer14
View Post
-
You want M12x1.5, at least 1.5" long. I bought mine from a wheel and tire shop, and they cost me (with open ended theft-resistant lug nuts) $40. You can also buy them HERE. Depending on the depth of the bolt holes, whether or not you have wheels with caps to hide the bolts, and if you care that your lugs stick out at all play a factor. I highly suggest that you test the studs in the hubs and drums as soon as you get a chance to see if there is any major resistance. You'll probably need an allen-key wrench to insert the studs. The use of blue lok-tite will help to keep your studs from spinning back out when you're removing your lug nuts. You won't need to use much. A few drops will do the trick, and one small squeeze tube will work for more than one car/use. When I tested my studs I realized I needed to buy a tap to clean out the threads because the studs wouldn't go in to the stopping point, but I had just swapped to a recently neglected Aspire hub & drum. Taps are found at Ace Hardware and aren't that expensive. You'll just need an M12x1.5 tap, some penetrating oil to lube the tap (liquid wrench, etc.), and an adjustable wrench. Go by hand, and if you hit a point where it's hard to turn (you should be able to get halfway up the tap with little resistance) move back out a few turns and go again. Good luck. TMI is sometimes better than NEI.Leave a comment:
-
Leave a comment:
-
Wheel stud?
Where do you guys get the wheel stud conversion kits from? What info do I need to know (what application )to order them? What is the best length to get? Thanks
Leave a comment: