Aaron's Festiva Build Thread

[Aaronbrook37]

Not much to report as of late... I haven't really been putting up pictures because it has mostly been maintenance: steam-cleaning the interior repeatedly, doing touch-ups on my bumper and side-molding paint, and trying my best to keep her alive mechanically despite the nasty gremlins my motor seems to be having. I've done some wet-sanding too, and repainted my hood recently to remove all the rock chips and rust bubbles. Recently, I've been up to 28-29MPG which is a huge improvement over where I started on this motor (20-21). Perhaps my piston rings are finally cooperating... might be worth doing a compression test to see where things are at. Keep in mind this is 100% city and somewhat spirited driving although off-boost since my VJ11 turbo doesn't spool until just past 3000RPM.

Recently, my axles and throw-out bearing have gotten noisier and noisier... and things finally came to a screeching halt at the local convenience store parking lot. The clutch pedal went to mush, the gear shifter was useless with the car on, and the noise and smell was overwhelming. I have brand new axles and a throw-out bearing going in on Friday with some help from a local friend here. Just in case there are metal shavings in the transmission from whatever, I'll obviously put in new gear oil too.

In addition, I had Sasquatch Racing polyurethane fill a spare set of motor mounts he had lying around because my clutch shudder and motor movement is overwhelming and quite uncomfortable. Beyond that, I have a few other little trinkets to add to the car: Kia Rio KYB strut mounts for that power steering-like effect, and some extra Moog K9737 sway bar bushings since I mistakenly bought one kit instead of two.

Things are going to continue to be slow on this build in all likelihood as I will be picking up a new project to work on at the end of the month and may be looking to sell the Festiva. Why you ask? The car is relatively overbuilt for my needs... it could handle drag strip action or being autocrossed routinely as a weekend driver... but I just don't have the time to really engage the car the way I want to. Obviously I will hang onto it unless a good offer comes about, as it is my pride and joy... and a ton of fun to tinker with. I'll be starting up a new build thread for the next project shortly.

[bp71monte]

I'm not sure whether I'm going to port and polish a head yet, so I may leave the ports stock size. I used a big flap wheel to get the flange cleaned up and shiny. I'm not going to polish the intake obviously because everything legitimate and with credibility that I'm reading says not to and it makes a lot of sense to me as well.

You can port but you're better off not to polish the intake, as the fuel particles run thru the roughness helps break em up. A great thing to do is put a nice smooth swirl thru it like a rifle barrel, but good luck acheiving that.

[Oren09]

I've heard the Home Depot Racing Clamps are good for like 5+ horsepower.

[defprun]

That looks great bro!!! banana time

[Aaronbrook37]

Aaron's car - fresh engine bay wash. Now with 100% more blow-off valve. Setup is a stock Mitsubishi Eclipse diverter valve, an Audi radiator hose, and Home Depot Racing clamps.

[moz]

Re: Aaron's Festiva Build Thread

Fantastic!!! Thanks

[Aaronbrook37]

What type of stones did you use to grind out stage 1?
I've got some stones but I think they're for finishing.
I tried porting the head on an fe3 I've got laying around. Stones crumbled like corn flakes after 2 minutes.

I used something very similar to this Ebay Australia link in case you wanted to order one for yourself! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SC-5L6-Ex...ht_1078wt_1200

[moz]

Re: Aaron's Festiva Build Thread

Stage one complete on the intake runners. I still need to get my grinding stones and sanding rolls on there to smooth things out a little bit, but the carbide cutting is complete for the first 4-5" of the manifold. No gasket matching or port enlarging done yet because I'm not sure whether I'm going to port and polish a head yet, so I may leave the ports stock size. I used a big flap wheel to get the flange cleaned up and shiny. I'm not going to polish the intake obviously because everything legitimate and with credibility that I'm reading says not to and it makes a lot of sense to me as well.

What type of stones did you use to grind out stage 1?
I've got some stones but I think they're for finishing.
I tried porting the head on an fe3 I've got laying around. Stones crumbled like corn flakes after 2 minutes.

[Aaronbrook37]

Stage one complete on the intake runners. I still need to get my grinding stones and sanding rolls on there to smooth things out a little bit, but the carbide cutting is complete for the first 4-5" of the manifold. No gasket matching or port enlarging done yet because I'm not sure whether I'm going to port and polish a head yet, so I may leave the ports stock size. I used a big flap wheel to get the flange cleaned up and shiny. I'm not going to polish the intake obviously because everything legitimate and with credibility that I'm reading says not to and it makes a lot of sense to me as well.

[Aaronbrook37]

Will the mx3 intake bolt right up to the b6t? I saw one on a ford laser at the local wreckers.

Supposedly the MX-3 head and intake can't be interchanged individually. Together, they can be... but because the injector bosses are on the head rather than the intake manifold as per the B6T, you need both else you'll either have 2 or 0 sets of injector bosses. There also seem to be issues with the alignment of side-mount throttle bodies and the strut towers... which is probably the reason they ran top-mount throttle bodies in the first place truth be told.

[moz]

Re: Aaron's Festiva Build Thread

Here's a quick start before and after on the intake manifold. There's a fair bit of work to be done on these manifolds, and even ported, they're inferior to the JDM ones and the side-throttle Miata and MX-3 ones. Unfortunately, at least for now, this is all I have to work with. So I'll make the most of it and then sell it off if I come across something better in the near future. Don't let my crappy camera deceive you... I've done no polishing as it isn't optimal on an intake manifold. Work was entirely done with long shank carbide burrs and my die grinder. Man porting aluminum is a heck of a lot more fun/speedy than cast steel, that's for sure.

Will the mx3 intake bolt right up to the b6t? I saw one on a ford laser at the local wreckers.

[nitrofarm]

[QUOTE=Aaronbrook37;574790]

This isn't a stand alone fuel management system. Looks can be deceiving I suppose. Winlog is just a little program where you can create and manipulate little gauges and dials and such. It's a display program that goes from my power unit (which datalogs and monitors different sensors - that's it) to a computer unit. It is windows-based and nothing like MS or Haltech unfortunately. It's merely monitoring and piece of mind. Think of it like a dozen gauges packed into a little box, because that's exactly what it is. Moz has the correct answer on the manual boost controller manipulating boost.

Ok cool guys thx for the input. So now if you monitor your A/F ratio and determine its lean,will you increase fuel pressure? Are there Adj FP regulators that can add more fuel as boost increase's? Oh and I've been confusing BOV's and Waste Gates. Two separate devices.

[Aaronbrook37]

[QUOTE=nitrofarm;574537]

So Aaron I'm inexperienced with "stand alone" fuel Inj. but really interested and eager in learning. What is Winlog,is it windows based and similar to Mega Squirt & Haltech? And what is an LSU? And I'm assuming the wide band data logger is just that. It logs your A/F ratio for future reference? Thanks-Thomas
ps and Festyfreak mentioned turning up boost.Is that accomplished with the BOV spring?

This isn't a stand alone fuel management system. Looks can be deceiving I suppose. Winlog is just a little program where you can create and manipulate little gauges and dials and such. It's a display program that goes from my power unit (which datalogs and monitors different sensors - that's it) to a computer unit. It is windows-based and nothing like MS or Haltech unfortunately. It's merely monitoring and piece of mind. Think of it like a dozen gauges packed into a little box, because that's exactly what it is. Moz has the correct answer on the manual boost controller manipulating boost.

[Aaronbrook37]

Here's a quick start before and after on the intake manifold. There's a fair bit of work to be done on these manifolds, and even ported, they're inferior to the JDM ones and the side-throttle Miata and MX-3 ones. Unfortunately, at least for now, this is all I have to work with. So I'll make the most of it and then sell it off if I come across something better in the near future. Don't let my crappy camera deceive you... I've done no polishing as it isn't optimal on an intake manifold. Work was entirely done with long shank carbide burrs and my die grinder. Man porting aluminum is a heck of a lot more fun/speedy than cast steel, that's for sure.

[moz]

Re: Aaron's Festiva Build Thread

be carefull of what? a boost controller?

do you mind shedding some light on exactly what happened? was it an instillation issue, product issue, or line issue?

im always scared ill develop a vaccum leak on the boost controller and all hell will break loose.

I was asking myself the same question.
The only way this would happen is if the boost was out of control.

So perhaps I should clarify that to do this you can buy a boost controller kit, or you an fit a bleed valve. but either way, you must have :
1- boost gauge
2- know what condition your motor is in.
3- know what condition your Turbo is in.
4- know what the limits are on your motor and Turbo.
5- gradually increase boost to know exactly what the new boost setting is. (If you open the bleed valve all the way and run the quarter, bad thing WILL happen)
6- treat your engine with respect. If you want to push boundaries, its always best to have a benchmark to work off, and do your due diligence and ask questions.

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