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  • toilet paper/bypass type oil filters, etc.

    Hello,
    I'm a new member here, and sort of a refugee from the Yahoo Festiva discussion group owned by Burgess Howell there, who I'd gotten in trouble with recently trying to discuss a STILKO brand toilet paper/bypass oil filter I've been using for about 30,000 to 40,000 miles on my '91 Festiva.(I lost the initial notebook I was keeping milage and oil change records in, but I've had the car since it had around 85,000 miles in June of '99 and it has over 122,000 now...I'm the second owner and bought it from a guy in the Coast Guard here in Eureka being transfered to Alaska...he said he never put anything but Mobil One in it, and I've kept up this tradition; I actually aquired the STILKO before the Festiva, but had to find an adapter to use it, since it had been on a Chevy 350ci V-8)

    Below is a recently initiated discussion I started at a website titled BOBISTHEOILGUY,<http://theoildrop.server101.com>(a place Howell even endorses...)(?) concerning the STILKO, and toilet paper/bypass filters generally; and I think the comments, often by very knowledgeable people with several decades each of experience, speak for themselves. I was getting very frustrated trying to keep the discussion going at the Yahoo Festiva group Burgess moderates, and think he was not really proving very accurate. The discussion here, assumning the information is factual and reliable-which I feel reasonabley confident of, proves me right in every instance where I was in conflict with Burgess; and him wrong.(as well as the occassional other commentators on the subject at the Festiva group, all of whom were negative)

    That said, I don't know exactly what I did to get onto his bad side, and wish I still had access to the group there on Yahoo he moderates...I think he shoulders most of the burden himself for answering everyone's questions, and he seems to do a good job of it, too.(whose last words to me in his final email a couple days ago, were something like, "you've irritated the crap out of me three times in one day, and this is practically a unique accomplishment," etcetera; and he also dissed me for a short piece I'd written and gotten a nice compliment on, about getting water through my air-cleaner and bending a connecting rod; because it involved an on-going romantical situation with a very ill lady friend who is an artist I'd been on a mercy mission to one winter, four hundred miles up the coast from California into Washington state)

    Burgess had been being helpful in sending me private emails, telling me the obvious, that I can get long winded if I don't watch myself. But, I think in a situation where a person like me, with some modest skills, but an obvious amatuer...is trying to dialogue with someone who is very knowledgeable, he got out of line by being very heavy handed with a lot of things, and I think my own use of simple common sense and observations of my own experiences were leading me to the truth, and this discussion at BOBISTHEOILGUY really proves I was right from the begining.(I was there all along at the Yahoo Festiva group because I'm ignorant and wanted advice, but I also am not the sort to believe competence in ones area of specialisation necessarily makes a person omnipitent, ominpresent, or in any other way Mopar oriented-if you can excuse the pun)(Dodge Omni, for those of you even slower than I am)  

    Anyway, I think these tiolet paper/bypass oil filters are a really excellent product, and that the STILKO brand one I have represents the best most affordable option for someone who doesn't have a lot of money to spend, or the will to significantly modify their existing set-up. It fits right in place of your regular spin-on filter, and I've found it is a little messy at first to change the roll of toilet paper inside, but a skill soon mastered and without any difficulty. For a person with only their own personal transportation to care for, it is really no worse than doing an oil change.(and anyone willing to convey this discussion to Burgess is certainly welcome to, and would be doing me a favor...as I think he will see why I'd been so adament in pursing the subject, etc.)(maybe some mechanics don't like these filters because they make motors last longer...the kind I know have so much work they don't know what to do with it, and appreciate anyone who can take care of something themselves, and spare them the task...and are a long suffering, and perhaps even a dying breed...get used to walking a lot if this is so; is one thought) 

    TANX!!!

    BELOW IS THE DISCUSSION FROM BOBISTHEOILGUY...(hey, jump past my dialogue to the guys who know what they are talking about!!!)

    Jump to new posts        
    » Hello, bobstad [ log out ] BOBISTHEOILGUY » Car And Truck Lubrication » Bypass Filters » STILKO filters, yahoo Festiva group, etc.
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    Author Topic: STILKO filters, yahoo Festiva group, etc.
    bobstad
    Junior Member
    Member # 8987
    posted 09-10-2005 01:22 PM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I have a '91 Ford Festiva with 122,000 miles I got as the second owner with 85,000 miles, and for the past 30,000 miles or so I've been using a STILKO toilet paper oil filter.
    Recently I joined a yahoo group for Festivas, and as soon as I chanced to mention using this STILKO filter I was chastised by the group owner, and several others, trying to tell me I was ruining my motor, and repeating all of the negative claims I've been seeing since then, looking around on the net just recently.
    So, anyone willing to go over there and post some more informed data, would sure be welcomed by me, and it would make me feel less like an idiot.
    I got the STILKO about six years ago before I bought the Festiva when all I had for transportation was a ten-speed bicycle. An older man who was selling a pretty rusty '67 Checker Marathon station wagon he'd just put a new engine and transmission in, with the full AMSOIL filtration system on both had this old STILKO he let me have for five dollars that he'd praised.(in high school the father of a friend had a Frantz system that he had great success with, on a '62 Plymouth)
    Once I got the Festiva, that has never had anything but Mobile One in it, I contacted Neil R. Wagenaar of Chula Vista, Ca., who sells both STILKOS and Frantz filters and he sold me the necessary adapter to be able to use it on the Festiva. Until encountering this Festiva group on Yahoo, I'd thought I'd done well in using the STILKO, and now after a period of doubt, I'm begining to become more confidant I was right.
    One question now, since I've been trying to do some research, is that I wonder if some of the filter mediums that similar filter manufacturers sell for use with their filters they say are better than the plain roll of toilet paper, might also be better with the STILKO.(I've been using Scott single ply because it seemed the densest of all of the brands, and is commonly available in a single roll, etc.)
    Anyway, Neil R. Wagenaar has been very conscientous and helpful over the phone, and it really went against my heart to let myself be swayed by arguments against using the STILKO, so I'm glad I found this site and others supportive of the toilet paper filters.
    By the way, I change the medium every 5,000 miles, which Neil said would be an okay interval using Mobil One, and he also says he never changes his oil, and hasn't since 1966...I've been thinking of doing the same, but wonder if this is adviseable?
    Also my motor seems to run a little rich, and though I easily passed the last smog test I had to go through here in California, there has always been some soot in my tailpipe, which I'd never had in a '66 VW squareback I maintained really well for a dozen years, so I wonder both how to get the Festiva running cleaner if it should be, and what sort of effect its current condition has on the oil, longevity, etc. Local mechanics say Festivas seem to run a little rich, but the people at the yahoo Festiva group say this isn't true, but have not been very forthcoming about what my problems might be, other than to suggest cleaning some of the sensors...I've never been confronted with computers before, and am thinking I might be better off paying someone else to help me, at least until I know more what I'm doing?
    Thanks for your help and interest, and anyone willing to set the discussion right at that Festiva Yahoo group is sure my welcome guest to do so...I sure hope there isn't this level of misinformation and prejudice there generally, which doesn't seem to be the case, but they have sure been all set and primed against toilet paper type oil filters, and came on me like vultures on carrion for some reason.(and the opinions expressed there like a conference of rocket scientists seem to actually echo the most hearsay comments elsewhere on the net about the subject...lets get the "straight poop" out, if anyone is willing?)
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    Posts: 3 | From: Eureka, Ca. | Registered: Sep 2005  |  IP: Logged | 
    johnd
    Member
    Member # 6337
    posted 09-10-2005 04:08 PM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I first ran into someone with a TP oil filter about 1970. When he told me he never changed his oil, I wrote him off as a nut and never gave it a second thought. I ran into this web site and the longer I read, the more it seemed like a good idea. Ever since putting the System One, modified for TP, on my car, I have been doing blotter analysis and watching the solids go down as time goes on. I suspect that you have encountered some individuals like I used to be. I now think bypass filtration is actually a good idea-I don't think that it is the solution to everything-but basically a good idea. I read about 200 old posts in this forum a few months ago and I really learned a lot.
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    Posts: 76 | From: Austin, TX | Registered: Mar 2005  |  IP: Logged | 
    RalphPWood

    Motor Guard Filters
    Member # 265
    posted 09-10-2005 05:08 PM                   
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    I have a Stilco that I have had for 40 years. They clean oil as good as any TP filter. The disadvantage is they are messy to deal with and take too small an element if they are the same as the old ones. I try to keep the old Frantzes and Motor Guards in use but I sort of put the Stilco on the shelf and forgot about it. I thought about selling them but they didn't meet my requirements. My personal favorite is the Motor Guard but when they converted to compressed air filters I had no trouble going back to the Frantz. When I couldn't get Frantzes I went to Gulf Coast filters. I decided it was worth the effort to bring back the Motor Guards as a lube oil filter. I am glad now that I did.
    I learned a long time ago that it is a waste of time to try to convince some idiot that TP is a superior filter element. I used to hear some good stories about TP filters. Such as: TP plugging up a catalytic converter; a guy in Calif. that got rich digging TP out of engines, etc. I just get the info out there and some people will think it's a good idea. I don't want a filter on a car if the owner hasn't done his research and decided TP is the way to go.
    I just got a call from a guy that bought a 53 Chevy with a Motor Guard M-100 on it. He called the Motor Guard factory and was told to go a NAPA dealer for elements. The compressed air elements are a very good filter but they are for high water content compressed air. They have a plastic core that will melt at high oil temperatures. The old Motor Guards needed a 1 1/2" core. The only TP I know of that has the 1 1/2" core is some of the Scott 1000 sheet in the individual wrapper. Some are 1 5/8". I learned that on this forum from a TP filter user.
    There are more TP filter users on this forum than any of the others. This is probably the best place to get information. I'm not bashful about talking about them. Of course I am biased, I'll admit it.
    Ralph
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    Posts: 529 | From: Texas | Registered: Aug 2002  |  IP: Logged | 
    bobstad
    Junior Member
    Member # 8987
    posted 09-10-2005 08:02 PM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Ralph, you seem to really be in the know...I just got myself banned from the Festiva Yahoo group, by its owner Burgess Howell there, for trying to sustain a discussion about the toilet paper filters...he insists that my STILKO is not a by pass filter, but to me even though they are calling themselves "full flow" in their brochure I have a copy of, they still have a Bypass oil route, a Bypass Regulator Ring Valve and a Bypass Regulator Spring...and I conjectured, possibley not accurately, that they were calling them "full flow" to try to capitalise on their spin-on simplicity and similarity to the standard spin-on full flow filters...in a situation where sales may've needed some sort of stimulation?(they are currently being made in South Africa, and by the way, standard rolls of t. p. fit in mine, though several of the outside layers of the roll have to be taken off to get them to fit) I sure wish I hadn't gotten the guy there Burgess mad at me, because otherwise it seems a pretty useful site and all.(oh well...)
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    Posts: 3 | From: Eureka, Ca. | Registered: Sep 2005  |  IP: Logged | 
    deepsquat
    Member
    Member # 147
    posted 09-11-2005 10:52 AM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Yes , you also have to unwind the scott to get it into a Motorguard or a frantz...as for tthe guy banning you for discussing a engine topic..what a d o r k !..as for never changing you oil again...wouldn't do it without an oil analysis..at say 5k and 10 k and 15 k ..so you at least have a trend to see how you car reacts to such long intervals...take the sampe before you change the filter element..
    I know that my car can go forever..but i have done maybe 6-10 oil analisis ...my last one was 44,000 miles on the oil ( well at least without cracking the drain plug!)
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    Posts: 639 | From: Washington | Registered: Jul 2002  |  IP: Logged | 
    trynew
    Member
    Member # 4683
    posted 09-11-2005 04:28 PM                   
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    quote:
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I have a Stilco that I have had for 40 years. They clean oil as good as any TP filter. The disadvantage is they are messy to deal with and take too small an element if they are the same as the old ones.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Even though I have never seen a real Stilko filter, on pictures it looks similar to a Trasko. A Trasko can make a good automatic transmission filter on a remote mount in the cooler line. Even though the filter is small, it is big enough to go a year without changing. Maybe the Stilko could be used for that purpose. They must have a built in bypass like the Trasko. If you are worried about the top (full flow) screen plugging up and blocking the fluid's cooling system, you can remove it.
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    Posts: 107 | From: North Dakota | Registered: Aug 2004  |  IP: Logged | 
    bobstad
    Junior Member
    Member # 8987
    posted 09-12-2005 06:41 AM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    In all fairness to Burgess Howell, who is the owner of the Yahoo Festiva discussion group who banned me there because I was trying to discuss by-pass and toilet paper filtration...
    I think he shoulders nearly all of the burden of providing technical answers himself...he says they have about 1250 subscribers...and his answers seem to be good, if occassionally missing something because it is so simple.
    And, I can get really long winded...I'm an amatuer mechanic, but I like reading literature and write alot...for awhile Burgess was being really helpful, simpley urging me to edit myself as much as I could, and I could see how I was taking the longest route everytime to get to my points.
    But, he really seemed to be going by hearsay on the tiolet paper filters, and like he then would come back and reverse himself if it seemed he was really blowing lots of hot air.(he can write really authoritatively, so maybe my being banned there was a favor to me...it became too much work to look through all the recent posts to try to refute him...I have an older computer on dail-up, at $4.95 a month)
    And, I did contribute one piece there that was pretty cute, about getting water in through the air cleaner that bent a connecting rod...but I did it as a dramatic dialogue since it was involved in a long drive up the coast to visit a sick lady friend 400 miles to the north during a terrible storm. Someone praised the piece as being a nice story, but I don't think Burgess really likes that sort of thing at his site...so maybe he was trying to make things rough there for me until I finally got enough overextended to give him an excuse for dumping me.(and the toilet paper filters were a perfect subject for doing that)
    Anyway, I appreciate the dialogue here, and it has gotten me really confident about using the STILKO and a lot more informed than I had been.
    I do have to figure out how to get my oil tested to see if I am fine not ever changing it...is that very hard to do, and especially here in a place like Eureka, California?
    And, using MOBILE ONE, is my frequency changing the toilet paper rolls every 5,000 miles adequate?(I was told this would be okay by someone who sells the STILKOS, and recommends changing the element every 2-3000 miles with non-synthetic oil...Neil R. Wagenaar)
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    Posts: 3 | From: Eureka, Ca. | Registered: Sep 2005  |  IP: Logged | 
    johnd
    Member
    Member # 6337
    posted 09-12-2005 06:47 AM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Until this thread I'd never heard of this type oil filter so I googled it to see what they cost. Good grief! You'd have to really want one of those things to pay $600+ for it.
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    Posts: 76 | From: Austin, TX | Registered: Mar 2005  |  IP: Logged | 
    keith
    Member
    Member # 771
    posted 09-12-2005 10:36 AM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    The Stilko looks very similar to the Trasko, and the text on the web site is very similar too (e.g. "oil refinery under your hood"). There must be some connection between these two designs.
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    Posts: 1542 | From: Connecticut, USA | Registered: Dec 2002  |  IP: Logged | 
    LarryL
    Member
    Member # 5056
    posted 09-12-2005 05:12 PM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    The Stilco costs under a hundred bucks in US currency. You were looking at someone else's currency. Call Niel at (619) 422-7060 (California) and he will be glad to help you out. I've known him since about 1965 and he is a good guy, completely honest, and he has been in the filter business, selling and installing, about 40 years or so.
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    Posts: 643 | From: Vista, CA | Registered: Sep 2004  |  IP: Logged | 
    RalphPWood

    Motor Guard Filters
    Member # 265
    posted 09-12-2005 05:51 PM                   
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    The big relief valve opens when the engine starts and closes when the engine stops. The Stilko is a bypass filter that screws on. I remember the brochure from the 60s. There was a picture of a dragster with a Stilko on it. I was working for Joe Davis of Davis Ingram Racing of San Jose at the time. We had a good laugh. TP filters are useless on a dragster. It looked pretty on there though. 90% of the oil going to the bearings without being filtered is bad news on a dragster. No problem with my Camry.
    I put a Frantz on the tow rig which was a Suburban with a 292 6 cylinder engine. Joe ran it 350,000 miles with over 300,000 with no oil drains using Delo 100 20 weight oil. We used the Frantz converter plate that eliminated the full flow filter. When I started selling the Motor Guard he helped me sell a lot of them.
    The guys on this forum have helped me a lot more. I sometimes find people that have used TP filters longer then I have but not very often. The last time I sold the Frantz they had just been bought by Diffusion Techologies in Tacoma, Washington and were being trucked up there from Stockton, Calif. Motor Guard started in San Jose, Calif. and ended up in Manteca, Calif. I called Motor Guard about 25 years agp and was told that they no longer marketed oil filters. I decided that was the wrong answer and brought them back on my own.
    I'm not too much into doing oil analysis on my rigs. I know how to read a dipstick. For what it costs for oil analysis I can change the filter a few times. On the equipment at work I do the oil analysis thing to impress the boss. The only time the oil needs to be drained is when you have an engine problem that causes a severe fuel or coolant contamination problem. The look and feel of the oil and the smell will tell me that.
    Ralph
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    Posts: 529 | From: Texas | Registered: Aug 2002  |  IP: Logged | 
    LarryL
    Member
    Member # 5056
    posted 09-12-2005 09:24 PM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    In fact, buy a MotorGuard from Frank. He supports BITOG, but only because he has an understanding wife. Don't tell anyone, but he even puts TP filters on fork lift engines.
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    Posts: 643 | From: Vista, CA | Registered: Sep 2004  |  IP: Logged | 
    deepsquat
    Member
    Member # 147
    posted 09-12-2005 09:25 PM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    As for having your oil analized ..we have a site sponse ..Blackstone Labs ...do a search on google or this site ..simple process and only coct about $25.00 also another sponser Butler CAT .is even cheaper
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    Posts: 639 | From: Washington | Registered: Jul 2002  |  IP: Logged | 
    johnd
    Member
    Member # 6337
    posted 09-13-2005 07:28 AM                      
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    quote:
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    The Stilco costs under a hundred bucks in US currency. You were looking at someone else's currency. Call Niel at (619) 422-7060 (California) and he will be glad to help you out. I've known him since about 1965 and he is a good guy, completely honest, and he has been in the filter business, selling and installing, about 40 years or so.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I had to really look to find that the website was Johannesburg South Africa.
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    Posts: 76 | From: Austin, TX | Registered: Mar 2005  |  IP: Logged | 
    RalphPWood

    Motor Guard Filters
    Member # 265
    posted 09-13-2005 08:48 PM                   
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    You have to be careful telling people how far they can go between filter changes using an oil like Mobil 1. What one engine can get away with another one might not. I told the boss that he could probably go 5,000 miles between filter changes since he was using Mobil 1. I didn't like the looks of the oil on the dipstick at about 50,000 miles. I sent a sample to Butler and sure enough it had an oxidation problem. We could have changed the filter every 2,000 miles until we got ahead of the problem but the boss decided to drain the oil. It was a 95 GMC pickup with a 350 engine. It had a sorry cooling system plus it gets very hot here in the Dallas area. Another customer, same engine, in the Dallas area has no oxidation problems using Quaker State 30 conventional. Does that mean the Quaker State is a betteer oil? No it means the guy using the Quakere State has a factory trailer towing package with a large oil cooler.
    I was changing the TP and adding a quart of Mobil 1 once a year or about 12,000 on my Subaru. That was pushing it a little too far. I think the Subaru could have handled a filter change and a quart of Mobil 1 about every 6,000 miles or every 6 months and stayed ahead of the oxidation. I had to drain the oil 4 times in 240,000 miles because of not changing the filter often enough.
    It was simpler back in the 60s when I didn't know enough to be dangerous. I used a good oil such as Shell Rotella or Delo 100 and changed the filter every 2,000 miles whether it needed it or not. I used straight grade oil because the multi grades couldn't handle extended drains in those days. There are all kinds of opinions on the subject but all it amounts to is never allowing the oil to get dirty and adding enough new oil. If you need a motor oil or ATF cooler install one. Excess heat is as bad as not keeping the fluids clean. Many times it is cheaper to install a cooler than installing a seal damaged by the heat.
    If you have one of the submicronic bypass filters which usually means it is a TP filter and the oil feels thicker and doesn't look like new you probably need to change the filter more often or install a cooler. Northerners might not have oxidation problems but might have sludge problems. You have to use common sense.
    Frank doesn't know anything Ralph is the smart one.
    Ralph
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    Posts: 529 | From: Texas | Registered: Aug 2002  |  IP: Logged | 
       

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  • #2
    Well, First off.. Welcome to FF.Com... You have joined the ranks of Wil,Fred and many others booted from the FML.. Most of the guys that have been here the longest are refugees from the FML... Whereas some good info comes out of the FML, on the most part there is no community. You just can't write about anything there. Here you can post just about anything, you just have to make sure it's in the proper forum and to follow the rules of that forum.

    On the FML, there is no place for venting, talking about non Festiva related subjects, or even calling the BS flag on someone who posts BS.
    You also have no choice as to what threads you look at because all messages and topics are in 1 big unsorted pile that you will have to drudge through when everyone starts telling you to search the archives.

    I am still an FML member and Burgess and I have no problems with each other. But the FML is ran on tight constraints.. First it's free, so he doesn't have to pay to keep it there, so when things go wrong he has noone to bitch at. Second there is no storage space, so all messages are archived and there is only like 20 megs.

    This message board was created for all of the reasons above and has had over 1000 members before we switched formats this year. It hasn't been around nowhere near as long as the FML, yet we had more members than the FML before the switch.

    Now I'm getting long winded...

    And Dan is the FF.com oil guy around here.. We don't always agree, but that's kind of the point to this board.. Everyone hashing things out for a consensus of the best way to proceed... again welcome..

    Comment


    • #3
      Bypass filters rock.

      I'm not much into the TP ones though. While they are cost effective and do a good job it's hard to convince people to buy them. Plus, they're messy until you have it figured out.

      However, they are a good investment.

      But it's hard enough to convince the festiva/aspire owners to spend $30 on an oil change with synthetic....mess less convince them to purchase a $100 to $250 bypass system.

      5000 miles on Mobil1 is EASY street. Between the extra capacity and better filteration of your bypass setup I wouldn't doubt you could double that. Heck, on AMSOIL I'm currently on 10k mile intervals and soon it will be 12k and that's without a bypass system.
      www.dantheoilman.com
      AMSOIL dealer and window tinter.
      Trust me folks, you need www.auto-rx.com
      Go ahead and ask me why

      Comment


      • #4
        Dan, this stuff sounds interesting. This is the first I've ever heard of "bypass filtration" or "TP filters."

        Quite frankly, it does sound really weird!

        Is there any site where this stuff is explained in detail so others can see what it is all about? I have no idea what "bypass" means. Some kind of diagram would be nice.

        I'm prepping my B6 engine right now for the swap next week and I'd like to go to synthetics. It's only an 82K mile engine so I'd feel okay about going synthetic. I got a filter kit for my auto tranny too, as I haven't done anything to it since I got my 195K mile '93GL.

        Karl
        '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
        '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
        '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
        '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
        '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

        Comment


        • #5
          spam

          No offense but does this guys post seem like one of those spam letters you get in your email? Viagra, Oil, Car Parts, etc?

          You all know the ones?

          Why come here and post 4 pages worth of text from another board?

          Just sounds fishy

          Comment


          • #6
            Here's some info on AMSOIL's bypass systems:



            Most go with the spin on dual remote bypass system. This way they don't have to drill and tap the oil pan.

            Here's information on the motor gaurd setup (one of the more popular ones):



            Here's STILKO:


            Frantz is as popular as motor gard I believe:




            I know TP sounds weird as a filter, but it's not all that strange. TP is actually strong. It's cheap. There's an amazing about of filter media in each roll.

            AMSOIL doesn't use TP, instead it uses like a seperate $30 or so filter that will last roughly 25k miles of use (in addition to full flow filters). It filters to below a micron. A complete setup for it runs just that side of $250 I believe. I've sold two of three over the past few years....mainly to new vehicle owners.
            www.dantheoilman.com
            AMSOIL dealer and window tinter.
            Trust me folks, you need www.auto-rx.com
            Go ahead and ask me why

            Comment


            • #7
              A solution to a problem that doesn't exist. Like some of the other topics I see here, WHY??????

              I'm with safety guy and am not exactly sure what a bypass filter is, but I could give a pretty good guess I think.

              Anyway, a standard oil filter costs 2-3 bucks and does just fine. People are getting a half million miles and more out of these engines on standard filters and oil. Not changing your oil=stupid. Oil is cheap and it's it's proven that oil breaks down after time from heat, contaminants(moisture, gas, etc), and from shearing, so why wouldn't you want to change it(unless you have a leak so bad that you add a quart every other day).

              The change interval largely depends on driving conditions. Back when I was driving 65 interstate miles one way every day, I changed oil every 5,000-6,000 miles, and the oil didn't even look all that dirty yet. I now live about 1 mile from work, so my engine doesn't even get close to warming up, even in the summer. In the winter when the temp is -30°, short trips like this really crud up the engine, and I notice that the oil gets dirtier much quicker. I change every 1,500 to 2,000 miles now (which is only about 2-3 times per year now instead of what used to be about once per month) and the oil is much dirtier than it used to be at the 5,000 mile interval.

              My $.02

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              • #8
                Hey darkdan, we must have been typing at the same time. Yep, that's pretty much what I was guessing the bypass was. I don't agree with some of the stuff they have on the Stilko site like "oil doesn't wear out". It does get sheared, not as much in cars but there is quite a bit that goes on in motorcycle engines.

                Again, if you can get 500,000 miles or more out of an engine with a standard filter and oil, WHO CARES if there are 1 micron particles floating around(not me). They apparently aren't big enough to cause significant wear. I work with Japanese engineers from time to time, and trust me, if it was necessary to go to a filter with better filtration, they would have demanded it long ago(especially those guys at Toyota)

                By the way, AMSOil is great stuff! Been running it in my dirt bikes for many years and never have problems.

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                • #9
                  Our little motors are more of the exception then the rule.

                  Think of it this way, if our average motor lasts 300k miles with 25 micron filteration....

                  Then it would last 480,000 miles with a bypass filter.

                  It would last 180,000 miles with only 40 micron filteration.

                  Conventional:
                  300,000 miles / 3,000 miles = 100 oil changes
                  (100 oil changes x 3.6 quarts x $1.29) + (100 x $3 filter) = $764.40

                  Synthetics:
                  300,000 miles / 10,000 miles = 30 oil changes
                  30 x 3.6 quarts x $5 + 30 x $3 filters = $630

                  Syntheics + bypass:
                  300k x 20k = 15 oil changes
                  15 x 5.6 x 5 + 30 x $3 + (12 bypass filters x $25) + $200 bypass system = $1010

                  So it's really not all that much more expensive. Plus, you can take the bypass system with you. However, you're using a lot less oil that either comes from OPEC.

                  On other vehicles with a larger sump size to begin with the $$$$ savings are much bigger.

                  If you don't think synthetics last longer you should check out my spreadsheet on modular motor used oil analysis. Please right click and save as:



                  The "weighted" values are "how many miles to get 1 ppm of that wear metal." So the higher is better. As you'll see most of the longer drains did better then the shorter drains.

                  I don't push synthetics too much on this board (you should see me on the other boards) because these motors have proven themselves to wear really well.


                  Oh yeah, motorcycles are a whole different story. Shared lube, high revs, higher oil temps, etc. Plus, most bikes get recommend 10w40 which is the shear out of grade King of the Oils. I usually recommend 15w40.
                  www.dantheoilman.com
                  AMSOIL dealer and window tinter.
                  Trust me folks, you need www.auto-rx.com
                  Go ahead and ask me why

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                  • #10
                    You don't have to sell me on synthetics Dan, I know they are great products. Another great advantage to synthetics is that their viscosity doesn't increase very much as the temperature drops. So when you start cranking over your engine when it's extremely cold out, the old gets to where it needs to go very quickly. With conventionals it takes longer. Plus, the engine spins over easier, so it starts easier which means less stress on the starter.

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