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What have you done to your Festiva today!?

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  • Greywolf
    replied
    I kicked my backside out into the driveway and got through the old steering rack removal, which I hoped I could do without disturbing either of the old tie rod ends because I had to measure exactly how far apart the ball joint bolts were (until I run it to an alignment place I know).

    I'm also going to pull the shift linkage - right away I saw where a whole trailer load of play was getting into the movement. It looked like the owner before me (OBM?) used some undersized brass tubing in the joint tubes that never did fit well. I wonder if there's a hard plastic tube resistent to heat that would fit it? Rubber tubing might work, but for how long? I've seen ides about it on here, I wonder what the best trick is, that tightens it up to a track spec???

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  • bravekozak
    replied
    Since I had to drop my gas tank because my fuel pickup sock disintegrated, I decided to swap out the old rusty bolts with some stainless wide flange M8 ones that I bought on the bay.

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  • bravekozak
    replied
    Here is the old cast iron Escort master cylinder bolted to the Festiiva vacuum chamber,
    I thought you would like to see how much clearance there is between the battery,

    Leave a comment:


  • greywolf200
    replied
    Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
    I had the tip of my Festiva pushrod precision welded to retain the Escort rubber that centers the pushrod in the bore
    The mcro welding was done by Advanced Laser and Microwelding in Mississauga.
    Nice.

    WOW

    Leave a comment:


  • bravekozak
    replied
    I had the tip of my Festiva pushrod precision welded to retain the Escort rubber that centers the pushrod in the bore
    The mcro welding was done by Advanced Laser and Microwelding in Mississauga.
    Nice.

    Leave a comment:


  • fastivaca
    replied
    Finally got around to installing my air/oil separator...

    .IMG_20190715_153201884.jpg

    Hose on the left comes from the valve cover, hose on the right comes from the factory block vent, center hose vents to the intake between the VAF and the turbo. There's a hose coming off the bottom that drains to the factory inlet on the oil pan.

    Leave a comment:


  • Greywolf
    replied
    KeyCylWare.jpg

    My solution to swapping out key cylinders is to use an upgraded bolt that is easy for ME to remove
    But I doubt any car thief has the sockets for

    I now have keys for both my mad rides, and will soon have another cylinder with a new key set

    My youngest was a locksmith for a while, and his advice was that if you can bring a thing like the above to a locksmith shop you can get a key done for around $50

    If you had to have a key made on site while you showed your ID and registration to the man...

    It would be over $150

    Member STUDEBAKER let me rob the above out of one of his donor cars
    In exchange, I helped him drag it to his back lot...

    (THANK YOU!)


    * It is explained elsewhere here at the forums how to remove the "PERMANENT" bolts that hold this part to the column


    The logic behind my selection of bolts is simple:

    It is easy to order a socket bit set that fits those fastener heads, but a car thief will not have them
    That metal (stainless) is extremely resistent to chisel points and blades
    The shape of the head is rounded and low profile
    The sockets for it fit much nicer than a wrench or socket in a tight place


    That's what makes it a diamond choice


    Anything that slows a chop shop down gives a LO-JACK more time to work




    ***sssnnniikkkerrrezzz***


    You can order those and the bits that fit them all over the place

    Here is the AMAZON link:

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    The bits you can find easily
    Last edited by Greywolf; 07-07-2019, 09:37 PM.

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  • Greywolf
    replied
    It's on the street!

    I DID IT!!!

    ` and it rips like a deranged chain saw on wheels...

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  • Greywolf
    replied
    The Blue Choo Choo is about on the street

    91 with a B6T that needs a ton of smoothing out, but I decided sometimes it's quicker and better to upgrade what is right under my hip pockets than to have a garage queen

    I'll give it one more tweak, and hang the tag on the back, I think it needs some battery cable TLC

    Leave a comment:


  • Meepersly
    replied
    Rear drums, bearings, shoes. It's great last year I repacked the bearings and turned out I didn't torque the nut to spec so the passenger bearing started eating itself.

    Leave a comment:


  • firebush357
    replied
    Installed a new Tie Rod End and Rebooted an OEM CV Axle. Also found out that my #3 Spark Plug went bad and that is why my B3 was spitting and sputtering so badly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glow_Mouse
    replied
    Well a yesterday i did this!

    Did some more on the semi-custom sideskirts to suit my 98' Spire.



    Then got to work on a semi-custom wing off a Daihatsu Terios.



    and another.



    And this rude but symmetrical hole. Btw this wing
    has a light built in. SCORE!



    Yep. Check out my build threads over at Fordaspire.com!
    Links are all in my sig!
    Last edited by Glow_Mouse; 12-18-2018, 09:29 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ricko1966
    replied


    those springs are header collector springs for a vw header. They are using tension springs attached to tabs. I used two today to fix my leaky head pipe. Used a radiator hose clamp to attach them at the head pipe pulled them tight and hooked them to the convertor flange.If I hadn't had them laying around I think I could have used brake return springs. I like this set up and think I am going to try using it all slip joint connections instead of clamps which crush the pipe making it impossible to remove in the future.

    Replaced my 3rd festy rack last week,I think I've learned some shortcuts but want to make sure. As you all know I suck at using the search engine . Ryann please point me at the rack installs so I can read them before a post a redundant install post. Thanks. Also figured out how to relocate the spring perches but that a story for another day.
    Last edited by ricko1966; 11-14-2018, 04:58 PM.

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  • Dragonhealer
    replied
    Thanks on the removal tip re: exhaust !!!

    Leave a comment:


  • ricko1966
    replied
    Already replaced with good used unit. The last 1 i fixed at midnight cause it broke at midnight and I needed the car in the morning, I put it up the drill press used 2 small bolts 4 washer and 2 nuts was driving again 30min later if I ever have to remove it from that car I'll take a pic. Cause I myself don't remember how I did it but it made sense at the time and 3 years later it's still in the car. Great now it will break.I may do the window weld on the one I took out just to have a spare. Thanks. iUOTE=harpon;759596]You need to do the window weld fix for the fallen shifter I think- is your replacement shifter OE or a short shifter- I think even if you replace the shifter lever and bushings you still need to fill the area between the circles- and window weld works well- search the forums for it[/QUOTE]

    Leave a comment:

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