My experience with trans oils in my 323 gtx

[festyfreak39]

I'll let you know. I'm pulling the engine to fab on a bigger turbo:p

getterdone buddy, i wanna see pics + bulidthread.

[festyfreak39]

http://www.tribology-abc.com/abc/viscosity.htm

Scroll all the way to the table at the bottom.

80-90 starts out around as thick as straight SAE30 engine oil, then gets to somewhere between that and SAE60 engine oil when warmed.

IMO, your trans will last longer with something that starts out thinner when cold but still gets "thick" to protect when it gets warm.

Could it not be possible that the thicker lube is masking the noise rather than making your trans work better? I just can't see how a lube that's thicker (harder to squish out of the way, yes?) would make a syncro work better. And I think this is shown when it's blue cold outside and the shifts are stiffer.

YMMV.

Oh, and I want to be sure I'm clear. I'm not saying I'd use ATF. I'm saying I'd use some thinner oil that still gets thick when it needs to. Personally, I use Mobil 1 Euro Formula 0w-40.

IT defiantly doesn't mask the noise, it actually works.... When the ATF, syncromesh, or 10w30 got hot, the trans was completely unusable. Whereas with the 80-90, the trans absolutely doesn't grind when its cold, however has a very very very very slight grind when going full tilt shifting like an orangutan

[Flyin4stroke]

^x2

[Grey Vw]

The GTX was like that with the ATF in it, 80-90 solved that problem... give it a try its cheap enough!

I'll let you know. I'm pulling the engine to fab on a bigger turbo:p

[sketchman]

Some more info:
http://www.bestlubeusa.com/gearlube.pdf

From the article:


Based on that info, info from a retired Chrysler engineer, and specs on the Mobil 1 Euro, I'll continue to use it, and I think I'll decide for now that the thicker lube is just deadening the sound of worn out syncros. I've seen how bad ATF is at lubing a trans before, and I'll never use it either.

My 2 cents.

[sketchman]

http://www.tribology-abc.com/abc/viscosity.htm

Scroll all the way to the table at the bottom.

80-90 starts out around as thick as straight SAE30 engine oil, then gets to somewhere between that and SAE60 engine oil when warmed.

IMO, your trans will last longer with something that starts out thinner when cold but still gets "thick" to protect when it gets warm.

Could it not be possible that the thicker lube is masking the noise rather than making your trans work better? I just can't see how a lube that's thicker (harder to squish out of the way, yes?) would make a syncro work better. And I think this is shown when it's blue cold outside and the shifts are stiffer.

YMMV.

Oh, and I want to be sure I'm clear. I'm not saying I'd use ATF. I'm saying I'd use some thinner oil that still gets thick when it needs to. Personally, I use Mobil 1 Euro Formula 0w-40.

[festyfreak39]

I never grinded in any gears with my first tranny and now I grind 5th but I think it's because I didn't put it back together correctly after welding the diff pin.

Now my real problem. On both of my trannys the 1st to 2nd shift is slow. I could yank it as hard as I want but there is a split second of it not wanting to go into gear. I can't do a quick shift like any other car. Do you think the good oil would help this? Is anyone else tranny like this?

Thanks.

The GTX was like that with the ATF in it, 80-90 solved that problem... give it a try its cheap enough!

[iceracerdude]

+1 I run mobil 1 atf in the aspire trans, very happy with that. But for my nissan I run redline synthetic gear oil, very happy with that too.

[Bert]

Synchro rings need to be replaced when shifts are no longer smooth. Rarely happens to little old lady vehicles, but quite common to 'cowboy' cars. Comes with the territory when you push engines and trannys to the limit.

[Grey Vw]

I never grinded in any gears with my first tranny and now I grind 5th but I think it's because I didn't put it back together correctly after welding the diff pin.

Now my real problem. On both of my trannys the 1st to 2nd shift is slow. I could yank it as hard as I want but there is a split second of it not wanting to go into gear. I can't do a quick shift like any other car. Do you think the good oil would help this? Is anyone else tranny like this?

Thanks.

[twopass]

When I changed my shafts I did not take out atf .
So I googled and found this for $8.00 qt
PENNZOILŪ SYNCHROMESH FLUID
is specifically formulated for synchromesh transmissions
is for gm /dodge but it works great in my 91 5 speed for 1 year.

[fastivaca]

Would you expect the same results with the stock Festiva 5-speed?

Sent from my LG-P500h using Tapatalk

[festyfreak39]

My experience with mazda transmissions is that a) they dont like synthetic b) they dont like atf c) they dont like any special junk... I did this experiment with the GTX to prove it.

also rocketman, what did you mean by "+1 rep left"?

In my mazda junk including: rx7, miatas, mazda 323, escort gt yada yada yada... 80-90 non synthetic is all i run in the transmissions.

I dont care to much for whats "recommended"... ford "recommended" changing my dads 2011 f150 oil for the first time after 25 000k or something ridiculous like that. like hell we would wait that long!!!!!!

Ford may have recommended ATF because it was cheaper for them to put in the cars in the short run doing warranty work or scheduled warranty maintenance.

[nitrofarm]

+1 rep left.

Ford actually revised their recommendation tables and says to use 80w90 in any climate that sees temps above 0°F. Google "G5MR Fluid type" or "G25MR fluid type"

I've used 80w90 for years now and it works great for me, a lil stiff in the winter but I'm okay with that. Friend had synchro issues with ATF, switched to 8090, problems gone! ATF is too thin and doesn't have the proper modifiers to keep the synchros happy long term, it's meant for clutchpacks in an Auto slushbox.

I googled it.Not finding any Ford tables. Lots of jibberjabber between racers just like on this forum. But nothing written in stone from Ford.Can you post us a link? Thanks-

[Rocketman]

Of course you don't realize that the fragile soft alloy synchromesh teeth and wheels are quite different from the actual hard steel running gears? 120W240 'earth-mover sludge', Banana peels, sawdust or mud in the oil might have you believe that tranny use and shifting is improved but not using the proper-engineered lubricant is likely gonna cost ya in the long run.

But it's your investment and time, your car and your tranny, and I'm always open to being proven wrong.

Here's some pretty in-depth information that corroborates with Mazda/Ford's revised tables: http://www.mazdaspd.com/resources/Tr...on_Rebuild.pdf