MPGs run, Aspire SE

[TominMO]

After careful consideration of what you wrote, I have to agree. In fact I had this thought as I was approaching the JY. But I went and got it anyway, and already put it on, more for aesthetics than anything.

Whatever.

[TominMO]

This makes no sense, numbnutz. Driving @ a steady 60 MPH is only part-throttle. Very little air movement is occurring, well within the capability of the restrictive stock airbox to flow the necessary air. So no need to go get a lower airbox piece to try to reduce airflow, for your purposes.

After careful consideration of what you wrote, I have to agree. In fact I had this thought as I was approaching the JY. But I went and got it anyway, and already put it on, more for aesthetics than anything.

[TominMO]

It occurred to me as I was removing the MAF to get to the element, that I might get better mileage if I re-installed the lower airbox half, which I removed right after buying the car because it is in the way and pretty useless. But the air restriction it provides might also keep my fuel usage lower, since the ECU wants to keep the AFR the same no matter what amount of air is coming in. But since I threw mine away, I'll have to make a trip to a JY to get one.

This makes no sense, numbnutz. Driving @ a steady 60 MPH is only part-throttle. Very little air movement is occurring, well within the capability of the restrictive stock airbox to flow the necessary air. So no need to go get a lower airbox piece to try to reduce airflow, for your purposes.

[getnpsi]

The Eco modding is all the modding involved shutters in for the grill to open and close, to mess with sensor values, on off switches to kill fuel and spark and so on.

[getnpsi]

When you're down on power and no need to accelerate the end result is less fuel being burned. This is what a hot air intake delivers now if you had to climb a mountain every day just to get home in the 1.3 with aggressive timing you will ping doing this with the hot air intake, you have to slow down a great deal and then back of your throttle which is terrible for volumetric efficiency There is a science a juggle and a game to driving to the mechanical limits of your car and then ad justing your machine to the thresholds of your own driving routes and driving styles.

[TominMO]

Lol Tom, its exactly as it sounds, the opposite of a cold air intake. Set it up to draw air from under the hood, near the exhaust.

Have you never been on ecomodder.com?

A couple times. Why would I want to draw hot air in?

[bhazard]

Lol Tom, its exactly as it sounds, the opposite of a cold air intake. Set it up to draw air from under the hood, near the exhaust.

Have you never been on ecomodder.com?

[TominMO]

Set up a hot air intake.

And swap in a festy trans for less rpm.

No idea what a hot air intake is.

Planning on a Festy trans in there next year.

[bhazard]

Set up a hot air intake.

And swap in a festy trans for less rpm.

[TominMO]

MAF heater element looks perfect. Ran a q-tip on it and got nothing.

It occurred to me as I was removing the MAF to get to the element, that I might get better mileage if I re-installed the lower airbox half, which I removed right after buying the car because it is in the way and pretty useless. But the air restriction it provides might also keep my fuel usage lower, since the ECU wants to keep the AFR the same no matter what amount of air is coming in. But since I threw mine away, I'll have to make a trip to a JY to get one.

[TominMO]

I'm just gonna leave this here with a few short words .. I know you've already seen it and I might be beating a dead horse, but anyway..

The way I am reading it is code 15 means a fault with the oxygen sensor, be it in the circuit or a mechanical failure. Code 17 means the o2 sensor is trying to say it detects a fault, in one of the components listed to check.

I interpret the code 17 as meaning the mixture is too lean for the ECU's liking, according to the data being fed to it by the O2 sensor.

[zoom zoom]

I'm just gonna leave this here with a few short words .. I know you've already seen it and I might be beating a dead horse, but anyway..

The way I am reading it is code 15 means a fault with the oxygen sensor, be it in the circuit or a mechanical failure. Code 17 means the o2 sensor is trying to say it detects a fault, in one of the components listed to check.

[Team Lightning]

up to 4000 RPM, each injector fires twice per cycle.

Festyboy, Can you explain what happens after 4000 rpm? Do they not batch fire all the time at all RPM?
The way you stated this makes it seem like there's a change in programming of the ECU after 4000 RPM.

[FestYboy]

up to 4000 RPM, each injector fires twice per cycle. so a pressure variation WILL make a differance, especially durring accel. did you note a change in driveability at all?

[TominMO]

Went on another short run today, to see if it threw the code. FP is set at 44, which I figure is plenty high enough considering that stock is 36. However, I'm not sure it even matters much with a batch-fire system.

Once again, it threw a code. No doubt the 17; I'll check later. What I don't know is what signal the heated narrowband O2 sensor is sending to the ECU. The digital readout I have is for the Innovate wideband sensor.

My next plan is to switch from the narrowband signal to the one provided by the wideband, just to see if the narrowband was perhaps not getting hot enough to give good info to the ECU. I'll prob make the switch tmw, then go on another short shakedown run to check the results.