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MPGs run, Aspire SE
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Make sure to ask if you can adjust between pulls. Most shops charge extra for the extra time
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What I'm not sure of is if I should be starting with cam variation, then switch to ignition variation, or the opposite. But I have to try something, and this makes sense to me. Rightly or wrongly, I believe that a slightly more-advanced ignition (13 BTDC instead of 10) will give better mileage, due to more-efficient burning.
It seems to be making good power and it feels quite smooth. Some of this is no doubt due to Matt's header. I'm thinking of taking it to a local dyno shop to check power at whatever cam/ignition configurations seem to work best for mileage. Three pulls for $75.
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heh festyboy. that is the subjective part of being objective. When you increase tq you feel it and wanna feel more of it. Toilet mileage. Skip shifting at low rpms with more oomph is great until you take off from lights and brag about chirping tires when you couldn't before==toilet mileage again. moving your power up the curve is ok for gains if you are responsible and drive it nice, knowing your power is later for highway buzzing...if you don't wind her all the way out in 2nd and 3rd because the exhaust note sounds better with a header...toilet mileage yet again lol. I don't know if every approach works for every occasion. I had a 1997 aspire for a little while and was able to monitor a few extra things realtime. Making the car down on power on purpose does work for mpg runs, with a b6 I think you have more wiggle room than with a stock b3 engine. Right now priority one is to dial it in so you don't get engine lights and stumbling with radical temperature swings, then getting back into aero with the weather getting cooler and so on. A rounded off cam with new valves would get great gas mileage but no power low or high, think boat anchor late 1970s v8s, iron blocks that would not take kindly to any ignition timing advance
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Originally posted by FestYboy View PostTom, i thought the whole point of this was to INCREASE mpg, not power above 3k...Last edited by TominMO; 10-17-2013, 09:55 PM.
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Tom, i thought the whole point of this was to INCREASE mpg, not power above 3k...
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I had to hog dizzy slots to make 10* factory after my head shave when using factory line ups. Hehe he. I ground off too much material.
Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro
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Went out and installed the cam gear two teeth retarded. Meant to only do one tooth, but was a bit sloppy. But the upside is that I now have huge overhead in ignition timing! My minimum cam timing is -4 (technically -3.65), which is fine with me. I set the base ignition to 13 BTDC, and there is plenty of ignition-timng room to accommodate increased cam gear retardation. Going for a drive tmw to check mileage/code-throwing.
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Do it Tom! Then you can adjust timing on the fly, and datalog, for later research
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Originally posted by zoom zoom View PostGet one for a protege!.... Do they have kits for a b6 323? That would be plug and play on a Festiva.Last edited by TominMO; 10-17-2013, 12:35 PM.
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Originally posted by TominMO View PostI wonder if you all are going to force me (via peer pressure, death threats, promises of chocolate, etc) to eventually buy this:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ans-p-500.html
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OK, fellow talking monkeys, here's what happened today:
Jumped in the car, warmed it up on the drive to the grocery store. Adjusted the cam timing to -2, and set base ignition timing to 13 BTDC with the light. Bought groceries, then went for a short city/hwy loop to see how it ran. It did pretty well; power was smooth up the RPM range, but seemed a little low. It idled a bit rich, in the 12s.
Then I changed the cam to -4. When I went to change ignition timing, I found out that the disty was already advanced to its mechanical limit. The timing light told me it was ~9 BTDC. So I left it there at 9, with -4 cam, and went for another drive. This setting also ran smoothly and seemed to have more power; also, it idled a little leaner, in the high 13s/low14s.
Since I couldn't advance the ignition any more, I called it a day. I don't see any point in advancing the cam to +2 or +4, esp. for attempting better fuel economy. What I might do is pull the disty and extend the bolt slots with a rat-tail file, to try to get more base timing in. Or, I could deliberately install the cam gear one tooth retarded again, and give me a cam timing range from -20 to +4 (instead of -12 to +12)! That would give me a wide range of ignition timing to play with.
But first I will go on an extended run with this configuration to check if it throws a code, and see what mileage it gives me.Last edited by TominMO; 10-17-2013, 12:26 PM.
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Originally posted by TominMO View PostI wonder if you all are going to force me (via peer pressure, death threats, promises of chocolate, etc) to eventually buy this:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ans-p-500.html
But, still want to see how far you can take it with this approach first.Last edited by Pu241; 10-17-2013, 12:54 PM.
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