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Fuseable Link distribution block repair

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  • Fuseable Link distribution block repair

    Your wires are almost 25 years old. Here is a cheap fix that will keep you from being stranded. And will ensure that the corrosion doesnt cause your fuseable links to get hot and pop. If you have a poor connection,it will heat up and melt stuff that you dont want to melt. The pics arent the best,but you'll get the idea.
    What you need to do-
    Pull battery & Over flow tank
    Remove two srews holding in plastic block
    "de-Pin" the "Male" connections on the plastic power block ( Keep track of what wires go where) There are five tabs that hold the six male terminals in the plastic block. Use a small flat tip to depress the tab. Then pull the terminal out. Start at the seperate ones first. Do all three then do the large solid piece last. Its a little more tricky. It only has two tabs on the outside terminals.But you have to work them together and pul the whole copper block out together.********Use caution because the plastic is thin and brittle.A lot of patience gos a long way.**********
    Clean all the terminals till shiny
    Tin all six terminals with solder (leave a super thin layer on each)
    Now reassemble,you will have to gently pull the locking tab out little. Dont break it.You will also have to emery cloth the terminals till smooth.Otherwise they wont fit back into plastic block.(this is why I said dont leave any excess solder on terminal.
    Install block mounting screws,overflow tank and Battery.
    You can now rest assured that this weak spot wont cause you problems at the worst time Thomas



    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

  • #2
    After that, REPLACE THEM WITH FUSES! 30A, 40A, 30A.
    1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
    Scrapped

    1991 Blue L 5-speed
    daily driver, intermittent project

    1993 rustless wonder
    A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Basement_Modder View Post
      After that, REPLACE THEM WITH FUSES! 30A, 40A, 30A.
      x2!

      Pink, Green, Pink.
      Festiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

      '90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap.
      '81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
      '95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.

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      • #4
        Great write up, can't wait to do this.
        Semper Fi til I die!

        1993 Fescort GT 1.8 BP automatic Kia Rio front struts and cut springs Cut Front Festiva springs with Monroe Aspire struts in rear


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        • #5
          The distribution block on my girlfriend's Festiva has been broken off and it's extremely corroded.

          This is perfect! I'll cut one off a junkyard car and replace it, now that I have an idea how!

          Psst... 5 star rating! Should be stickied in the articles section!
          -Zack
          Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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          • #6
            Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
            The distribution block on my girlfriend's Festiva has been broken off and it's extremely corroded.

            This is perfect! I'll cut one off a junkyard car and replace it, now that I have an idea how!

            Psst... 5 star rating! Should be stickied in the articles section!
            You just have to be real carefull not to break the plastic.(very brittle) But its def worth the trouble.
            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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            • #7
              can't see a pic here...
              "i am the difference"

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              • #8
                looking at it and I see pics just fine.
                "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                89L Silver EFI auto
                91GL Green Auto DD
                There ain't no rest for the wicked
                until we close our eyes for good.
                I will sleep when I die!
                I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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                • #9
                  I actually have been using 3 pinks (30A - 30A - 30A) for about a year and it is working just fine.

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                  • #10
                    I'd saturate with WD-40 or penetrating oil 24 hr before starting.
                    Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                    • #11
                      Awesome write up. I did this about 6 years ago with 10g wire and gold connectors, then took that setup and added fuses. Runs great.
                      Fesdiva is it's new name since she's acting crazy- 92 L

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                      • #12
                        Does anyone know if there is a similar block, with cover (!) from a newer car that we could substitute for our old, open ones for this procedure? That would not only modernize it, but keep it from unnecessary exposure to the elements.

                        Possibly take a newer block with cover and use only part of it?

                        Karl
                        '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                        '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                        '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                        '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                        '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Safety Guy View Post
                          Does anyone know if there is a similar block, with cover (!) from a newer car that we could substitute for our old, open ones for this procedure? That would not only modernize it, but keep it from unnecessary exposure to the elements.

                          Possibly take a newer block with cover and use only part of it?

                          Karl
                          Possibly a 323.
                          Or Aspire (Nerd Raing suggestion in another thread) can't recall if the aspires have covered fuses.
                          '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
                          '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
                          '92 Aqua parts Car
                          '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
                          '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

                          "Your God of repentance will not save you.
                          Your holy ghost will not save you.
                          Your God plutonium will not save you.
                          In fact...
                          ...You will not be saved!"

                          Prince of Darkness -1987

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Pu241 View Post
                            Possibly a 323.
                            Or Aspire (Nerd Raing suggestion in another thread) can't recall if the aspires have covered fuses.
                            I'm gonna be gutting one of my Spires this spring.I'll keep this option in mind.
                            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                            • #15
                              This Mod is not meant to eliminate using Cartidge Fuse's

                              I've had some members ask me about this Mod lately.
                              FYI we did install Cartridge Fuse's later on. I just didnt have them at the time I took the pics. I def recommend using cartridge fuse's. But just know that a "New" fuse is not going to fix a corroded distribution block. You must disassemble ALL the connections. Clean them,then solder if you want a low resistant circuit again. Peace-
                              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                              Comment

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