1990 Festiva Fuel Gauge bad Sending Unit

[Paul39]

Assuming the odometer works, fill tank, add 320 to odometer reading, write that on a card and stick somewhere visible. That number is when you need gas. The 320 is 32 mph X 10 gallons.

My Black Rocket speedometer / odometer does not work and gas gauge goes down to 3/4 full then empty.

Makes me pay attention.

Paul

[1990new]

I'm trying to figure out the correct part number for just the sending unit which works with the EFI Festivas.
Is it this one?

GAUGE-FUEL TANK - Hyundai/Kia - PRIDE

(QKK13860960, KK13860960)
No Picture of it here.


I know the other one that has a picture does not look like mine.
GAUGE-FUEL TANK - Hyundai/Kia - PRIDE

(QKK13760960, KK13760960)


Mine has a blue connector with a read and black wire. It attaches to the top of the cover and plug into a connector that goes through the cover.

They also appear to have the Left side Channel-Glass Run now (Part KKY0159605).
Think I'll order 1 for Bessie and one for Trixie.

[jawbraeka]

I just installed a web chat program, but I need to change up the graphics.. soon guys soon..

Dj

From a browser you should be able to.. Phone or PC.

sent from the depths of hell.

[bravekozak]

"sender" got no hits, so I tried "fuel" and found "gauge". If you search for Pride, then "GAUGE-FUEL TANK" you will see the part numbers for senders with no pictures. Unfortunately, I cannot link the search.

[the_feist_in_festiva]

don't do the stop leak if u need the pipe pay shipping and ill send u one

In other news, The JB MARINE WELD WORKED! The first application failed. Apparently I had missed the pinhole, or the pressure pressed past under the JB weld like under the skin of a chicken. Anywho, the second application did the trick. I played it safe and let it cure for 48 hours instead of just 24, since it's freezing here and cold probably takes longer. The heat from the coolant pipe I'm sure helped cure it as well. JB Weld claims 3,980 PSI, I just needed 15, lol. Anywho, hopefully that lasts, some other folks online have said it's lasted them for years so far. Saves me taking apart that crazy coolant pipe. Had 3 leaks with this thing, lol. At first thought it was just the pipe there. Then it was the lower radiator hose. Got a new one and fixed that. Then it was the draincock. Turns out it was the o-ring that fell out when I was draining the coolant, duh. But now that's done.

But OH MY GOODNESS: http://www.fourgreen.com/store/scrip...-p-QKK13760960

BRAND NEW FUEL SENDER FOR $55. Not an junkyard part, not a used part, not a insanely difficult rebuild, but a brand new one, and an Asian one at that! Kia Pride, man I wish it said Kia Pride or Mazda on my Festiva. No offense Ford, but you guys just make terrible cars, lol. I don't know how you do it bravekozak, but if I had a shop, I'd want you to be my parts guy.

No but seriously, how did you find this part? This is the Shangri-La for Festiva Fuel Senders right here. Someone sticky this!

[bravekozak]

You are correct. I was just curious and wanted to see what it looked like.
But not so curious as to open it up to see what the new winding looks like inside. Hopefully, it will last about twenty years. I look at it as cheap insurance.
They are cheaper if you buy them direct from Four Green. They even have them for carbies. They are a lot more expensive because you get a new cover and gasket also. Nice.
There are also a couple of other Pride fuel senders without pictures.

[the_feist_in_festiva]

I found an even easier way to change the fuel level sender so that it works like new again.

:shock: AND WHEN WERE YOU GOING TO TELL US?

No but that's the one you showed us here right?: http://www.nospartsltd.com/product-p/f0bz9275a.htm

Man good find. Too bad it's $100. I paid about $25 for the junkyard sender, but again, who knows how long this one will last because the metal was already turning from gold to silver, somewhat worn.

[bravekozak]

I found an even easier way to change the fuel level sender so that it works like new again.

[1chrisapple]

CONCLUSION:

Ladies and gentlemen, (let's be honest, there are no women here.) Gentlemen, it seems that I now have a working fuel gauge. Lol. That was an ordeal. It seems that the metal was grounding itself, and so when I fixed that, it reads good now. $15, or a quarter tank. What have we learned? I have learned that I shall never attempt to rebuild anything ever again, and that I will only replace the entire part, lol. No but, something along those lines. I also learned that there were at least TWO OTHER FUEL INJECTED FESTIVAS in other junkyards in my town, I just didn't know how to look them up and find them. WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT, that typing in FORD FESTIVA + the name of your town + JUNKYARD would yield results - I mean WHO. Lol. I just looked at Pick N Pull, because I love them so much and are generally cheaper than junkyards. Man my mind is limited. Gotta think outside the box.

Anyway, I can read my gas gauge now! That was worth the 20 hours it took. I thank you all. Learn from my mistakes. Just buy an entire fuel sender, or use the coil from an older carbureted sender, or use an Aspire sender, which will be somewhat inaccurate but still pretty good. Or, carry a gas can in the back! In conclusion, time is more valuable than money, and I would have rather spent more money getting a sender shipped in than to have gone through this hell to have possibly saved some money. $1 fuel sender fix does sound awesome though. But time is money. Also maybe I should devote myself to something else. I have wasted my life. -

In other news, after I replaced my clutch on this thing, the coolant pipe right under the distributor sprang a leak. I was hoping it was just the heater hose, but lo, it was the metal. Pinhole leak. Pressure test used by the loan a tool program from Autozone confirmed it. I tried JB marine weld. Claims to hold 3940 psi. Still leaked. Maybe I missed the hole. Tried the JB again. It's been 24 hours but it's freezing, so I want to be patient and wait another day until I pressure test again. The newer JB weld I can still put my finger nail into and make a dent, but the JB weld from two days ago is rock hard. Lol, here comes another nightmare. Because I've been debating whether to put some stop leak pellets into the radiator, risking catastrophic blockage and failure, or buy the entire dang coolant pipe, which is so long and complicated and goes under the exhaust manifold and etc. etc. etc. nightmare city. I will probably replace the entire pipe if this next pressure test fails. The heater core is already plugged and it's the dirtiest, rustiest radiator I've ever seen. Oh you poor thing. Who did this to you?

don't do the stop leak if u need the pipe pay shipping and ill send u one

[the_feist_in_festiva]

CONCLUSION:

Ladies and gentlemen, (let's be honest, there are no women here.) Gentlemen, it seems that I now have a working fuel gauge. Lol. That was an ordeal. It seems that the metal was grounding itself, and so when I fixed that, it reads good now. $15, or a quarter tank. What have we learned? I have learned that I shall never attempt to rebuild anything ever again, and that I will only replace the entire part, lol. No but, something along those lines. I also learned that there were at least TWO OTHER FUEL INJECTED FESTIVAS in other junkyards in my town, I just didn't know how to look them up and find them. WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT, that typing in FORD FESTIVA + the name of your town + JUNKYARD would yield results - I mean WHO. Lol. I just looked at Pick N Pull, because I love them so much and are generally cheaper than junkyards. Man my mind is limited. Gotta think outside the box.

Anyway, I can read my gas gauge now! That was worth the 20 hours it took. I thank you all. Learn from my mistakes. Just buy an entire fuel sender, or use the coil from an older carbureted sender, or use an Aspire sender, which will be somewhat inaccurate but still pretty good. Or, carry a gas can in the back! In conclusion, time is more valuable than money, and I would have rather spent more money getting a sender shipped in than to have gone through this hell to have possibly saved some money. $1 fuel sender fix does sound awesome though. But time is money. Also maybe I should devote myself to something else. I have wasted my life. -

In other news, after I replaced my clutch on this thing, the coolant pipe right under the distributor sprang a leak. I was hoping it was just the heater hose, but lo, it was the metal. Pinhole leak. Pressure test used by the loan a tool program from Autozone confirmed it. I tried JB marine weld. Claims to hold 3940 psi. Still leaked. Maybe I missed the hole. Tried the JB again. It's been 24 hours but it's freezing, so I want to be patient and wait another day until I pressure test again. The newer JB weld I can still put my finger nail into and make a dent, but the JB weld from two days ago is rock hard. Lol, here comes another nightmare. Because I've been debating whether to put some stop leak pellets into the radiator, risking catastrophic blockage and failure, or buy the entire dang coolant pipe, which is so long and complicated and goes under the exhaust manifold and etc. etc. etc. nightmare city. I will probably replace the entire pipe if this next pressure test fails. The heater core is already plugged and it's the dirtiest, rustiest radiator I've ever seen. Oh you poor thing. Who did this to you?

[bravekozak]

The solder should only be enough to join the resistance wire to the red power wire. That is why there is a round plastic isolator under the solder and why the bridge for winding the wire on is also plastic. So that it isn't grounded and can give a reading. The float arm pivot is supposed to provide the ground. If you had an ohmeter, you could have tested the resistance before you installed it.

[the_feist_in_festiva]

Maybe it's because the metal bit is grounding itself, touching the plate cover. I left quite a bit of metal on where I soldered the wire onto the new coil. Could that metal touching the top plate cause the gauge to read full all the time? The tank has $15 in it total, tops. I'll take another look at it tomorrow.

[bravekozak]

You need to measure how many ohms you are getting. All instrument clusters interchange. Resistances are the same. Where is the arm in relation to the coil? Is the tank half full?

[the_feist_in_festiva]

You only need the coil inside. Remove the sender, open it up, check if the wires are intact. If so, take just that and leave the rest behind. I hope the winding bar is the same length as the EFI, 1.5 inches.

Oh I was so excited. I got a coil from an 88 Festiva and the wires weren't broken, but they were worn, from gold to silver, I'm sure you guys know what I'm talking about. I tested it moving it by hand and it seemed to work fine. Did some soldering. But now the fuel gauge reads completely full, when I've only got about $15 worth of gas in it. What might be causing this?

[bravekozak]

You only need the coil inside. Remove the sender, open it up, check if the wires are intact. If so, take just that and leave the rest behind. I hope the winding bar is the same length as the EFI, 1.5 inches.