Wheel Bearing Issues

[ricko1966]

thread Festiva front bearings starting about post #20 9-11-2017 . how I do them updates as you hit newer posts

[firebush357]

http://festivacentral.blogspot.com/2...acement_7.html

This Guide got me through my first one and now that I have done a few they are pretty easy.

[WmWatt]

People have posted lots of info on front wheel bearing replacement over the years. People could try the search box at the top right corner of the screen. There have been photos and videos.

[denguy]

Might I just say...........damn those Festiva front wheel bearings !!

[likeJIF]

Man, glad I found this, I just redid my passenger front bearings and am getting noise from my drivers side bearings now. I already used the spacer that was in there and used regular bearing grease from O'reilly's, I hope it holds together. I will have to pull this back up when I get home this evening and pull up all the links because I am at work.

[ryanprins13]

After looking at that I have no doubt I could rig up a proper procedure for checking using sockets and all thread, FWIW I remove my brgs and hubs leaving the steering knuckle on the car and pull everything back together with all thread, Works like a champ.Fast and easy.

The tool will be available in the festiva store soon i believe for a good price. Would likely need grade 8 or 10 threaded rod to handle the 150ft pounds on the smaller diameter rod.

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[ricko1966]

After looking at that I have no doubt I could rig up a proper procedure for checking using sockets and all thread, FWIW I remove my brgs and hubs leaving the steering knuckle on the car and pull everything back together with all thread, Works like a champ.Fast and easy.

https://www.justanswer.com/ford/0yct...-drivable.html

Here's a guide for the front wheel bearings.

[william]

https://www.justanswer.com/ford/0yct2-front-wheel-bearings-replaced-have-locking-drivable.html

Here's a guide for the front wheel bearings.

[ryanprins13]

Is there a link on here showing DiY for front end work? Wheel bearings, lower control arm, ball joints, axle for 1990 Ford Festiva L? Thanks

This is for the wheel bearings using hand tools at home without checking spacers https://m.facebook.com/groups/187474...50871324484959
The rest is all explained real well in the haynes manual which is cheap and valuable to have.

There is a free PDF of a factory service manual available on the FB group. I can link it externally for you when I get home if you don't have FB

I linked it here already.

As I recall rear inners are a set a4 bearing rear outters are a set a1 front inner and outter are both a set a18. Tapered roller bearings made to industry standards have insane strict tolerance standards. If you buy good bearings and use proper grease you will not have a problem using an original spacer. IMHO the spacers are to compensate for tolerances on the knuckles themselves.Anyone who has actually used the rotunda tool please chip in here why couldn't your average guy get by using three sockets two nuts and washers and a piece of all thread.1 nut washer socket to put pressure on the inner brg,1 socket to center the spacer 1 nut washer socket to put pressure on the outer brg. Tighten the whole mess up measure rotational resistance,done.

I have asked charlie. He had a good explanation which i cant remember real well now. But when reusing spacers oj new bearings the preload can be out of spec. The specs are also like 2-15in pounds or something and he sands/grinds his down to 5in pounds for best life for racing

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[ricko1966]

As I recall rear inners are a set a4 bearing rear outters are a set a1 front inner and outter are both a set a18. Tapered roller bearings made to industry standards have insane strict tolerance standards. If you buy good bearings and use proper grease you will not have a problem using an original spacer. IMHO the spacers are to compensate for tolerances on the knuckles themselves.Anyone who has actually used the rotunda tool please chip in here why couldn't your average guy get by using three sockets two nuts and washers and a piece of all thread.1 nut washer socket to put pressure on the inner brg,1 socket to center the spacer 1 nut washer socket to put pressure on the outer brg. Tighten the whole mess up measure rotational resistance,done.

[w4rkry]

Is there a link on here showing DiY for front end work? Wheel bearings, lower control arm, ball joints, axle for 1990 Ford Festiva L? Thanks

There is a free PDF of a factory service manual available on the FB group. I can link it externally for you when I get home if you don't have FB

[Leesire]

Is there a link on here showing DiY for front end work? Wheel bearings, lower control arm, ball joints, axle for 1990 Ford Festiva L? Thanks

[firebush357]

^^ Yes, the rear inners and outers are the same size but on the front they are different sizes.
The spacers come in a set of 32. I think they are sold individually at Kia dealership parts departments.
You just put the same one back on that you took off. Most problems come from not putting them back on.
Look in the trash and see if it's in there. Check the wheel to see if it's on.
(They have the number stamped on them. I paint the number on the hub in case they get lost. They are matched to the individual hub.)
The torque is 150-180. I have to use a cheater and put my whole body weight on it to get the nuts tight enough.
I use ordinary "chassis and bearing" grease which does not break down under higher temp's on both car and bicycle bearings.
Recommend getting the Haynes manual. Pays for itself in saved labour charges and avoided mistakes. I read before I wreck.

If you can find a Factory Service Manual on Ebay they provide a good bit more info than the Haynes Manual and aren't too much more money.

[WmWatt]

^^ Yes, the rear inners and outers are the same size but on the front they are different sizes.
The spacers come in a set of 32. I think they are sold individually at Kia dealership parts departments.
You just put the same one back on that you took off. Most problems come from not putting them back on.
Look in the trash and see if it's in there. Check the wheel to see if it's on.
(They have the number stamped on them. I paint the number on the hub in case they get lost. They are matched to the individual hub.)
The torque is 150-180. I have to use a cheater and put my whole body weight on it to get the nuts tight enough.
I use ordinary "chassis and bearing" grease which does not break down under higher temp's on both car and bicycle bearings.
Recommend getting the Haynes manual. Pays for itself in saved labour charges and avoided mistakes. I read before I wreck.

[ryanprins13]

It also has the Aspire swap on it, which if I remember correctly, uses the same bearings as the Festiva knuckles.

My memory tells me the rear bearings are the same but the fronts are different. i could be wrong though

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