Car Stalls when subs are turned on

[Zeeknof]

My car idles at around 800rpm's...when I turn on my amp/subs on the car drops down really low to like 200rpm's....then every now and then the car will completely stall out. How can I fix this? Do I need to run a dry cell battery? Get a Capacitor? I have 2 Audiobahn Alum 12's and an Audiobahn A2150HC amp. Obviously it draws a lot of power, just haven't had them in a car where it made the headlight dim so much it looks as though I'm flashing them. Any help would be appreciated.

Shaun

[glacius182]

Get a good capacitor. This solve my problem on my old Festiva but now I have the flashing light problem on my Contour 98 and I'v got a capacitor. I'm adding another amp this week 8) so maybe I'll need another battery or to upgrade my alternator. :cry:

[SimonTuffGuy]

Why do you idle your car with your system on?

Does it have any problems when your driving?

I'd suggest a Optima RED top. You can upgrade with a cap as well, but that will only help with your lights dimming.

My suggestion is to keep your system off if you're not moving. Chances are you are probably pissing someone off if you are at your house and you are bumping...

Simon

[Zeeknof]

Yeah I switch the speakers off when I'm idling now. The first time it happened I was sitting at a red light and my friend was playing around then the car stalled...I'll look into getting a better battery and a capacitor, the lights dimming piss me off more then the car stalling, I switch it off at idle so that's not a big problem there. Well thanks for the info. Just figured I'd ask before I spent the $$$

Shaun

[qaking]

Shaun,

Which alternator are you using?

Stock one?

[Zeeknof]

Yeah, stock alternator

Shaun

[qaking]

Shaun,

I think you are using more amps than you are making with the stock alternator at idle, thus causing the car to stall.

[shortystowing]

I added a HUGE battery in the rear of my festy and it took care of the problems you are having... I could hit as long as I wanted at idle or cruising...

For my tracer, I have two SVR audio series batteries and two caps to help hold up my amps.

If you can't supply enough amperage to support the system try storage...

[Zeeknof]

Cool, thanks for all the info. I planned on added another of the same exact amp to my system to push my speakers more...but wanted to make sure I could get all this taken care of. I'll probably add a good battery and maybe a capacitor or 2...is the rule 1 farad per 1000 watts?

Shaun

[Silv3rBull3t]

..

Check your wiring especially your ground and make sure the Amp/Amps are properly grounded... AKA No paint to metal connection... It has to be metal to metal and make sure it is tightly secured.. If not then everyone else is right and it's your battery/alt. Goodluck! -Kyle

[m715]

Has anyone got a basic maximum amperage draw that is sustainable with the small output alternator in our cars? I am wondering when I will hit critcal mass adding accesories to the stock electrical system. :?

[FB71]

with the engine running, the lights and wipers on, you've got maybe 15 amps available (max output is 45, but most of that is consumed)

[m715]

That's about what I had figured. I am already above that amount of draw, and drive the car with the lights on for most of my commute. Have most of you changed alternators to a larger output that are running better audio gear?
Right now I have an Alpine amp fused for 30 amps running 2 12" Infinity subs in a sealed box as extra load on the system, but I also have an Infinity 4 ch amp that I was thinking of using instead of the Alpine unit to drive the other speakers in the system instead of just running them off the head unit. Problem is, it requires 60amps (2 30 amp) of draw to operate it. I am guessing from the previous posts that I won't blow the voltage regulator out of the alternator if I were to try to run this as a test of what the system would take. I don't know just how that extra 30 amps of draw will affect the electrical system. Might stall out on me at a light too, huh.