Originally posted by zoom zoom
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Installing a Pioneer Head Unit?
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Originally posted by FB71 View Postthe reason I have job security...
No really tho, I don't understand what the big deal is, as long as you twist the wires tight and tape them good so they won't poke thru the tape and short out they're not going to lose continuity anytime soon. If somebody in 50 years from now decides to refurbish an aspire..or any of my old cars..well, they have bigger problems than the wires!2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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^^^ I'm only ribbing you. You are correct, properly bound and insulated, there's nothing really wrong with that, on the inside of the car. Under hood is a different story...
BTW, my job is teaching auto repair...Jim DeAngelis
kittens give Morbo gas!!
Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)
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Tape vs Adapter
I have to agree with them both, I have always done the solder / tape bit myself, and there were a couple occasions when the tape gets all punky and gooball, and sure enough, I had to yank the deck and repair it. This past summer I was building a new server (long story) and was making a new harness for it and remembered the punky tape and thought about the heat in a computer with 20 hard drives... So I bought a huge kit of shrink wrap. So now I have to say the choice is between solder and shrink wrap vs adapter. After using the shrink wrap tape sucks, it would work in a pinch, but I think the shrink wrap is easier, and better. Just don't leave it in the car in the summer :nono: and don't forget to put it on the wire before you solder...
The adapters are easy, and pretty cheap, if there is one for the car. I just seem to always end up with a car that has been previously hacked, so it's not an option. If you really want to be cool, use the wire loom like they do on the computers, looks nice when the deck is hanging out of the hole
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See the "radio harness adaptors" sticky in this section.
I use the harness adaptor, and just twist together the wires, then cover with electrical tape. To clean it up more, I like to zip-tie the group of wires together. Never had a problem. I have the same Pioneer radio in Larry and Bruce (Danny has the stock radio), so I just use one of the faceplates for both cars, and have the other as a spare.90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand
Disaster preparedness
Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info
Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!
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my 1991 ffl is crazy i replaced all the little 4inch speaks for 8 inch had to drill some holes but they fit nice and have 2 12 inch kicker compvr's with 1000 watt amp soon to get 2 more 10 inch for under front seats. any one know where to get a hood??ReD 91 L FIRSTiva
92 silver 5spd with some boost! Kratos
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I wouldn't reccomend Just twisting the wires. At LEAST put a screw-on wire nut on the end. Otherwise, solder and heatshrink, FTW.1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
Scrapped
1991 Blue L 5-speed
daily driver, intermittent project
1993 rustless wonder
A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T
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Originally posted by cway1319 View Postmy 1991 ffl is crazy i replaced all the little 4inch speaks for 8 inch had to drill some holes but they fit nice and have 2 12 inch kicker compvr's with 1000 watt amp soon to get 2 more 10 inch for under front seats. any one know where to get a hood??In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright:
There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"
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Ive had poor luck with the shrink wrapped butt connectors pink, blue, yellow, that ford used to supply, for two reasons. Once you crimped it you always break the shrink wrap where the crimp is, thus rendering it useless to seal the connection. And 2 when you shrink it with a heat gun, I've had a few times where the wax would flow into the splice and cause it to loose continuity. Happened a few times on the Taurus BOO switch recall and they always supplied those stoopid things. I use the shrink wrap less ones and if I crimp with the channel loc crimpers I flow solder in it and heat shrink with the wt-5672 and if I use the ford crimpers then no solder as its a better crimp then just cover with the wt-5672 also. There's a few ways of doing it minus crimpers as well just takes a lil longer.Tim
'97 Aspire ST, UltraViolet Blue, 37k miles - New Storage Queen
'03 SVT Lightning, Dark Shadow Gray, 30k miles - Storage Queen 11 months/year
'95 SVT Aspire B3T, Green Mica, 75k miles - DD
'01 ZX-500R, Violet Pearl/Gray, 5400 miles - Storage Queen
'89 Suzuki FA50 Bright Red - Lake Transportation
Cardomain.com/id/aspiresvt
Previous Vehicles
'92 Festiva L "Sport" Green Mica
'92 Festiva GL Blue Pearl
'92 Capri XR2 Performance Red
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