is having insulation for stereo too thick a bad idea?

[jawbraeka]

hi guys and gals,

just curious to ask if having too much insulation for stereo a bad idea..

I had a crazy idea for a self-customised rubber matting insulation

Let me draw a diagram to explain this easier

Layer 1 - Carpet
Layer 2 - Bridgestone Carpet underlay (the stuff used for flooring at home)
Layer 3 - Bitumen cement
Layer 4 - 2mm Flat Rubber sheeting
Layer 5 - Bitumen cement
Layer 6 - 5mm Rubber Matting (Spongy and heavy)
Layer 7 - Bitumen cement
Layer 8 - Bitumen sided Aluminium Flashing

The reasons i want to try this is:

Kill as much road noise as possible, Bounce as much bass back into the car and three make the car retain as much heat as possible when it's cold.

Is that too much overkill or is that actually a 'sane' idea

Please leave your feedback and tell me if i am going way overboard or will that need some adjustment.

Please leave ideas here too as i think i might have gone a little overboard here but not 100% certain.

[r34king]

I'm thinking too many layers ( weight added, getting things bolted down again). But its really up to you

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[DriverOne]

That's like getting angry and hitting a gnat with a lorry. Is the Bridgestone carpeting underlay outdoor-capable? Going with a simple rubberized undercoating on the inside of the body will help immensely, and the underlay will kill a lot of noise too, if it's as high-quality as Bridgestone normally is.

One of the first things that you should do is a resonance test with the equipment you plan to use. You'll find a lot of the weak spots in the car that way, and you can address them individually. I suggest the 2mm rubber sheeting be applied to the roof, and MAYBE the underlay, but I wouldn't go much farther than that. The lighter the better.

Doors could do with the rubber matting.

As a final thought, what's this going to cost you? There are several companies that have -almost- cheap sound deadening materials available, including FatMat and BQuiet, which are designed to be serious walls against noise. Add your carpeting underlay, rubberized spray inside the body, and your ears will pop when you close the doors.

EDIT: Okay, that's not the final thought. I forgot to mention that you should pay attention to your dash as well. Any vibration in the car and that thing will prepare mixed drinks.

[Charlie1717]

That's like getting angry and hitting a gnat with a lorry. Is the Bridgestone carpeting underlay outdoor-capable? Going with a simple rubberized undercoating on the inside of the body will help immensely, and the underlay will kill a lot of noise too, if it's as high-quality as Bridgestone normally is.

One of the first things that you should do is a resonance test with the equipment you plan to use. You'll find a lot of the weak spots in the car that way, and you can address them individually. I suggest the 2mm rubber sheeting be applied to the roof, and MAYBE the underlay, but I wouldn't go much farther than that. The lighter the better.

Doors could do with the rubber matting.

As a final thought, what's this going to cost you? There are several companies that have -almost- cheap sound deadening materials available, including FatMat and BQuiet, which are designed to be serious walls against noise. Add your carpeting underlay, rubberized spray inside the body, and your ears will pop when you close the doors.

EDIT: Okay, that's not the final thought. I forgot to mention that you should pay attention to your dash as well. Any vibration in the car and that thing will prepare mixed drinks.

^^Good advice.

Alot of noise comes through the windshield from the engine bay (more so for me with the BP) and wind noise tends to be a bit high in these cars (not for everyone though). If you did the rubberized spray, a layer of fatmat everywhere, up on the firewall and maybe even under the hood (bonnet), in the doors, and around the wheel wells, back hatch and hatch door. Maybe get some rain/wind guards for the windows.

Some people take foam tape and find any squeeks- for example a squeeky panel you can remove put foam tape around the area then replace the panels which will create a cushion and stop the squeeks.

[jawbraeka]

the whole floor will cost $400 approximately to get done.

The rest of the car i will have to work out.

The other thing i want to do is the actual hatch and add insulation in there too.

any ideas on how i'm going to get into the internals of the hatch also?

[jawbraeka]

there is something called Stop Leak

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/420268672/Self_adhesive_bitumen_flashing_tape.jpg

I can get 300mm x 10m rolls for 128$ at Bunnings (local Hardware store)

[Aaronbrook37]

I used liquid roofing patch repair (in a big gallon size) for my wheel wells on other cars, and it cut down on road noise significantly. I've also used polyester blanket stuffing (teddy bear fluff basically) from Walmart with some success filling doors, quarter panels, and trunks before.

[Tex Law]

Insulation

I used DYNAMAT on the interior including the doors. Installed the carpet and door panels right over it. Significant reduction of noise plus some thermal qualities,

[fastivaca]

I've used B-Quiet in my car with gteat success www.b-quiet.com... and it's considerably cheaper than Dynamat.

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[jawbraeka]

I used liquid roofing patch repair (in a big gallon size) for my wheel wells on other cars, and it cut down on road noise significantly. I've also used polyester blanket stuffing (teddy bear fluff basically) from Walmart with some success filling doors, quarter panels, and trunks before.

i'd do the inside and outsides so not only does it cut noise, it will 99.99999% waterproof as well .. thanks for the tip.

I'm still going to go ahead with my crazy idea too. lol

Someone in here mentioned about bolts through the material and will they be long enough, i'll be sensible and basically squash the layers at that point so basically it will become flat and thin enough to be bolted through... failing that, get some bolts that have the same thread but longer and cut them off under the car.

[DriverOne]

Bolts, really? I think that's too much. Good adhesive is all you really need. Think about it for a second... you are trying to fight vibration with mass amounts of insulation, but you're going to bolt the insulation to the floor, which may come loose and vibrate...