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  • P@P b6 update

    hay guys, it been a while since I posted so take that as "everything is working within tolerance" My newly built b6 has 15 000 kilometers on it now and is running great, I am also getting an awesome amount of power out of it, which I'm sure is credited to the P@P and exhaust manifold work I did to it, I wasn't able to really pound the engine until it was broken in fully, but now I can really give er. It will squeal all the way through first, and then stop as it switches into second, but my muffler is a joke, it the stock b3 muffler, the piping up to it is 2 ", but the inlet to the muffler is like the size of a cigar. I know that this is inhibiting me alot right now, but its too cold out to mess with right now. I need to do some work to the car this summer, like theres something clunking at certain points in turning the wheel, I suspected the strut bearings, but I think is more rack/inner tie rod related (input on this welcome) also new calipers for the front and maybe new struts all around. but motor wise, everything is good, the only thing I didn't' like that much is a slight oil consumption. I estimate that I burn about 1/2 quart every 5000 kilometers, but I drive pretty hard, and I also didn't replace my valve guides when I rebuilt the motor, just the seals, and sometimes I did notice a very slight blue puff on startup after sitting, not much, just a hint of it, indicating some leak-down. blue puffs in the morning can either be bad rings (leaks too much pressure into the crank that blows oil into the PVC valve and into the intake) or bad valve seals, the rings are new and the block was de-ridged and honed, and so has really good compression, so its not rings, and I have new valve seals but the guides have about 300 000K on them so.......... :? but I mean I don't really mind, some peoples new cars burn that much oil (not my new Mazda though :wink: ) and I check it regularly. Also I haven't re-torqued my head since I built the motor (which was suppose to happen at the 1000K mark :roll: ) but I'll do it this summer when the car comes off the road. also I am using the original PVC valve, so I think I'll get a new one of those which can also cause high crank pressure. anyhow, I'm gonna take a ricer video of my car, but you can't laugh at the sound of the muffler, like I said its like a cork in the end, and it sounds like its gonna explode! LOL (oh ya, I did I mention its a 3sp auto! :wink: )

  • #2
    Don't wait till 1000 to do a retorque, do it at 100 or 500. It's too easy not too! why take a chance. I used a tractor muffler I got from "tractor supply"don't laugh. I don't know if you've ever heard of them or seen their ads on tv, or got one in your neighbor hood? They got them in stock out on the floor so you can look into them, and you can get it straight thru, or with a single disk baffle in the main tube. Either way, very low restriction, good sound and quite till you open it up a little, then she barks good just $32. Mine's the 2", straight thru, but I've had the other one, with just slightly more baffle. I'd get the baffled one again, if I change it. And you're right about that pcv, get that setup screwed up and you will suck the oil right out of the thing.
    97 Aspire w/K03 turbocharged b6 SOHC
    CoolingMist Varicool II Meth injection
    Phantom gripped and cryo'ed 5 speed

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    • #3
      I was just thinking of you today, wondering how your engine was doing! Hows it doing as far as gas consumption? I'm only getting 30-35mpg, but i think i have a lead on why that may be.

      Other than that my engine is going great, good compression all across the board, uses a little oil but not too bad, has some minor oil leaks which sux seeing as everything is brand new, but i think i over-tightened my oil pan gasket. Power is good, should be better when i finish my exhaust!


      The muffler iceracer is describing sounds just like a glasspack, which is what i have on my car, $20 at Autozone here, had them in stock so you can look at them before you buy. Just a thought! Its a little noisy but not too bad till you get on it!
      ~Nate

      the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

      Current cars:
      91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
      1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
      2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

      FOTY 2008 winner!

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      • #4
        hmmm fuel consumption.... how can this be..... OMG My right foot!!!!









        IT'S HUGE!!!!!!!!!
        Trees aren't kind to me...

        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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        • #5
          ^LOL

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          • #6
            lol! i'm a size 9 1/2W, so i don't have that big of feet


            and i've babied it for a few tanks and still only got about 35mpg. its not all in the foot!
            ~Nate

            the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

            Current cars:
            91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
            1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
            2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

            FOTY 2008 winner!

            Comment


            • #7
              ya, I'm only getting about 30 MPG but I pound the car pretty hard, I love this motor!!!! I still need to re-design my CAI next to compliment what ever exhaust I get because my first at the CAI yielded a CEL because the VAF was on its side and was screwing up the readings, so next year it will be upright, and I'll just re-rout where the tubing goes to compensate, too cold to mess with till summer though.......Oh ya, sorry no video yet, it was snowing when I made the first post and now its like a blizzard, so no showing off just yet :x , until the weather clears :twisted:

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              • #8
                You're supposed to retorque the head? Oops. Guess I'd better get on that.

                Jim

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by monkeyracing
                  You're supposed to retorque the head? Oops. Guess I'd better get on that.

                  Jim
                  ya, 1000K after assembly, I think its more of a saftey precaution to make sure nothing moved too much during the first few warm-ups after things expand, I'm not in too much of a hurry, I'm not loosing coolent so it must be tight enough, I did this on the last motor I built and got no movement on the head bolts so................I'll just wait till spring and add it to the other repairs pending :roll:

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                  • #10
                    i got a full 1/4 turn out of all my headbolts, and i'm getting some oil-seepage from the head gasket :/ no coolant loss and doesn't seem to be burning oil, and everything above the HG is dry (not VC) so i think it must be coming out of the HG a lil, but not bad.

                    Next time i do a re-build i'm going to re-torque the head after the first drive and then again after another 1k.
                    ~Nate

                    the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                    Current cars:
                    91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                    1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                    2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                    FOTY 2008 winner!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      ok, I finally was able to go out and rip around with my buddy (red protege in front of me) once the streets finally dried, you can hear the engine inside the car pritty nicely with the stock muffler but outside it sounds super stupid, the second video is just mashing it from a stand still, it started spinning so bad it drifted into the other lane! 8)

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