Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

camshaft installation

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • camshaft installation

    So i just got a FMS comp cam from rolla, and i was wondering how hard it is to install the thing...

    I have already installed a custom cold air intake (pics coming soon), so it will definately be some help to my B3.

  • #2
    well, if the head comes off, that'd be the easiest..for cam install. but if not, then remove timing belt, and valve cover and you need the valve spring compressor (non-C-clamp type) and then you have to keep the valves in their seats... then you can remove the cam.. just make sure you have all the stuff ahead of time and know what you're getting into.

    -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
    -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
    -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
    https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

    Comment


    • #3
      uummm no.

      here's how you do it:

      loosen the water pump bolts and then remove the alt belt and w/p pulley.
      remove the upper timing belt cover.
      remove valve cover.
      loosen the cam gear bolt by holding the cam with a wrench (you'll see where near cyl. 1)
      loosen the timing belt tentioner bolt and then remove the belt from the cam gear.
      remove cam gear.

      READ CAREFULLY:
      here's where you need to take your time and be careful.
      in this order: start with the center rocker arm bar bolt (intake or exhaust, doesn't matter).
      loosen that bolt 1/2 turn.
      go to the next two outer bolts and do the same (working center to outermost)
      repeat untill all bolts on that bar are loose 1/2 turn.
      go back to the center and loosen 1 full turn.
      follow the above process untill the bolts can be loosened by hand.
      remove the bar, bolts rockers and all as a unit.
      repeat for other bar.
      remove cam retainer bracket (distro side, 10mm bolt).

      the cam should be free spining at this point.
      now support the oil pan with a jack (DO NOT lift the car)
      remove front engine mount
      carefully raise engine with jack untill you can "just" slide the cam out the passenger side.
      if you need a little more room, loosen the front trans mount.

      the cam will now slide right out.

      slide the new cam in, but before you get it the whole way in, apply liberal amounts af assembly lube to all the journals and lobes. then seat the cam into the distro and attach the cam retaining bracket.

      re-assembly is reverse of above including the bit about the rocker arm bars (little at a time).

      set your cam timing and off you go!!
      Trees aren't kind to me...

      currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
      94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

      Comment


      • #4
        Well said......no valve spring compressing, just rocker removal. Instead of loosening the water pump bolts, loosen the tensioner at the alternator.
        ---------------------------------------------------
        The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
        ---------------------------------------------------
        BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


        Comment


        • #5
          yeah, forgot that step, but you still need to remove the pulley to gailn better access to the timing belt tentioner.
          Trees aren't kind to me...

          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

          Comment


          • #6
            man, this looks like one tough job.. at least for me...
            I am not a pro, and i think i rather just take it to a mechanic... but that would definately kill my pocket... damn!

            Also, just wondering, is it wise to change the valves while the setup is out?!

            Comment


            • #7
              if you are changing the valves you should take the head in to get it worked over. The guy there can put it all back together for a small fee and have everything perfect. While the head is there you can have ports cleaned up and/or the head shaved as well. On most cars when the head is worked on, that's when the new cam really shines. Mechanics out here send heads to the machine shops anyway. Once it's finished its just a head gasket job.
              1993 GL 5 speed

              It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!

              Comment


              • #8
                Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm nearly 100% sure you can remove the cam by sliding it out the drivers side, you just have to remove the disty, and then you don't have to worry about raising the engine.

                In other words, this step:
                'the cam should be free spining at this point.
                now support the oil pan with a jack (DO NOT lift the car)
                remove front engine mount
                carefully raise engine with jack untill you can "just" slide the cam out the passenger side.
                if you need a little more room, loosen the front trans mount.


                Would now read:
                the cam should be free spining at this point.
                remove the disty, and slide the cam out of the head.

                the whole job shouldn't take more than an hour or two.
                ~Nate

                the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                Current cars:
                91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                FOTY 2008 winner!

                Comment


                • #9
                  you're right Nate, but if you slide it out the Pass side, you don't disturb the ign timing, nore do you have to worry about the wires/battery/strut torwe that's in the way.
                  Trees aren't kind to me...

                  currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                  94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    sorry, for some reason i thought he said he wanted to do the valves.... don't know where i got that.

                    -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
                    -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
                    -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
                    https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      HAHA from your post i thought he wanted to do valves too. If i was spending his money it's what i would do.
                      1993 GL 5 speed

                      It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by goodbabbu View Post
                        So i just got a FMS comp cam from rolla, and i was wondering how hard it is to install the thing...

                        I have already installed a custom cold air intake (pics coming soon), so it will definately be some help to my B3.
                        Did you ever fitted the cam to your engine? Is it worth it for power?
                        :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I would HIGHLY recommend buying a Hayne's manual before even starting. I consider myself an experienced mechanic, but after using a manual for the first time (to change a timing chain on an '84 SAAB 900), I now buy a manual for every car I own, except for the older ones. They are an invaluable reference tool for determining how long a job will take, where that "hidden" bolt is, what the easiest way is to remove something, etc.. Especially if it's a job you've never done before or a newer vehicle with fuel injection, sensors, etc.. You'll be surprised at what you can accomplish with a manual, even without much experience.

                          In this case, I would just mark the disty and remove it, then pull the cam out the driver's side. Getting the cam timing right could be confusing if you've never done it before. The springs on the rocker shaft can be a bear during re-assembly as well. You should also install a new cam seal. I have also heard of several issues with the distributor drive slot on the end of the FMS cams needing some touch-up work. I would suggest having someone experienced on "stand-by" for help.
                          Brian

                          93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                          04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                          62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                          1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                          Not enough time or money for any of them

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lancerevo View Post
                            Did you ever fitted the cam to your engine? Is it worth it for power?
                            Yes and it swaps over to an early B6 motor too
                            It's a good thing you don't read the stickies, you might of learned something.Poverty produces creativity

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by lancerevo View Post
                              Did you ever fitted the cam to your engine? Is it worth it for power?
                              He was last here in Nov 09
                              Oscar

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X