nitrous for the 1.8 escort gt

[vincefestiva]

hey guys, i was wondering i have a festiva with a 1.8L escort gt engine, with headers intake and aftermarket exhaust, i want more power and i was wondering if any of you guys have ever used a product similar to this nitrous system before. Is it any good? will it do any harm to my engine?
thanks

here is the website:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitrous-Kit-VW-Beetle-Jetta-Golf-Rabbit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33740QQitemZ8004197807QQrdZ1

[darpien]

i don't know about you but i remember nitrous bottles being about as big if not bigger than a log of wood you use in the fire place not the size of a co2 canister you use in a bb gun. those bottles all together might be enough for about 60ft. if you can change them and use them all in less than a second. i would say don't waste your money and buy a good system for like 3-500 dollars. oh yeah and 10 ft of hose isn't gonna cut it don't buy it its a waste trust me it doesn't even have injectors or an injector they should be included as well as a whole bunch of other stuff. look for a good system i am not sure what you should get wet or dry but anything is better than this.

[darpien]

oh yeah and good systems have a button you push that only engages the nitrous at full throttle not a weird thing you squeeze to let the no2 out, it is a piece of garbage let me say that again a piece of garbage.

[B6T]

You're in Woodbridge?!

If you ever in Etobicoke, stop by my shop n Evans Ave and check out my Festiva! PM me for more info.

[seniorsteele]

looks like a scam. like all those stupid performance chips that only cause problems

[TurboSupra12]

Don't buy it.

If you want more power from the BP, get some cams, or do some internal work or something.

And get a 1987 RX-7 non Turbo b-code VAF

[JerseyJay1.8T]

nitrous can be just as safe to use as any other mod, but you gotta do it right. First off, NEVER run a dry setup. EVER. Wet only. Secondly, for every 50hp increase in power, run COPPER plugs that are 1 heat range colder than stock, gapped .004 tighter than stock. Always run premium if you're gonna spray. Start with a small shot and work your way up. Personally I wouldn't go farther than 75 on a stock BP just to be safe. I'm sure it can be pushed farther but i don't know for how long. Anyway, a good kit will have an arming switch and a throttle switch so that you can only spray at WOT. And an rpm-window switch to shut off the nitrous below 3200 rpms and above 6700 or so would also be a good idea.

Might be a good idea to pick up a wideband O2 gauge or egt gauge to keep tabs on the engine.

I have a friend who ran nitrous on his 04 cavalier for a few months at a 75 shot, and he never had any problems, except the one time that the bottle heater never turned itself off and almost blew the bottle, but that was a separate issue.

One last thing is that nitrous brings big power, and fast... in a light car like the stiva, you may want to be packing drag radials or slicks if you plan on running the juice.

[festivagt]

Nitrous Use...

Umm, upper intake manifolds that are not designed for wet applications are the death of MANY wet nitrous kit users. If you want to understand how to use a type of nitrous kit, understand its function and how it will interact with the motor you will be using it on. First, YOU WILL wind up having a lean condition due to puddling with the engine REGUARDLESS of when you spray the WET kit. You probably won't notice it until it is too late and you melt somthing important. Most engines that are not carburater equipped do not have a wet style intake manifold. Most multiport EFI engines are quipped with a dry style intake manifold that is not designed to keep the gasoline combined with the air and nitrous mixture that a wet kit delivers. For this reason, they make a DRY nitrous kit. This type of kit raises fuel pressure to make the fuel injectors spray more fuel every time they open. By spraying fuel at this point, you eliminate the worry of fuel puddling in the UIM, running lean due to spraying fuel/nitrous before the UIM and contribute to a more exacting fuel distribution. The nitrous on a dry kit gets sprayed before the throttle body and is carried harmlessly with the rest of the air entering the motor. The only safe option for a EFI vehcile with nitrous is a dry kit. If you want to keep living on the edge, Keep spraying your engine with a wet kit. If you want to try to be smart about it, check your plugs RIGHT AFTER you spray. Run the nitrous and as soon as your done with your run - PULL OVER (At the turn at the end of the drag strip) and pull them, ALL OF THEM and look to see how your car is running on the spray. Quick little bursts might not hurt anything by themselves, but they could add up over time. Most people jump up and down about making sure you have a A/F gauge which really isn't that important when using nitrous(Nitrous will melt parts so quickly, that a A/F gauge can't react fast enough to show the problem!!). Buy a fuel pressure gauge. Not nearly as fun, but ESSENTIAL to a nitrous equipped car. If there is any drop in fuel pressure your nitrous kit WILL run lean and fry your motor. The same could happen if you have a turbo or supercharger and you boost with low fuel pressure. What good is a A/F gauge going to do? It only reads what has been done already to the motor. With nitrous use, a A/F gauge should be last on your list of things to buy. I have a few boxes of melted parts I could share with you if you want to know how much time and money I have put into researching nitrous use on the 1.3l. Please, if your interested in nitrous use on your engine, buy a book or goto NOS's website - www.holley.com and you wouldn't believe how much information is there FOR FREE and it is factual, not opinionated.

[JerseyJay1.8T]

Dude, have you ever seen the intake manifold of a BP engine? How do you propose that fuel is going to puddle, when gravity is just going to force it down the runners anyway? Puddling is a concern with scroll-type manifolds, or the type with curved runners where the main plenum is actually lower than the ports in the head. It would be VERY hard to get a fuel puddle in the BP manifold.

As for an A/F or EGT gauge being useless, thats the most retarded damn thing i ever heard. If you see the A/f start to creep above a certain ratio, you can let off before it does damage. Same with EGT. They react plenty fast enough to allow a competent and attentive user to prevent damage. Granted, it shouldn't be the only thing you rely on, but it is FAR from useless. An A/F gauge is run off of an O2 sensor, and is what the computer uses to adjust fuel in closed loop operation. If that reading was occurring too late to make any difference than why would OEM's even bother using them in engine management? Why would race teams with $70,000 + motors making over a 1,000 hp use wideband O2 sensors and EGT probes in every header primary? Maybe you thought I was talking about the cheap "disco" a/f gauges? A wideband O2 gauge reacts more than fast enough to use in a nitrous situation and is accurate to within 0.1 units.

[EVOGUN]

Proper way to do nitrous is multi port style, one fogger per intake runner. NX makes a kit, NXL its sits a nozzle between the fuel injector and intake manifold injector hole. Injects nitrous and fuel you can jet each cylinder for the exact same volume of nitrous and fuel. Down side the kit is expensive but I wouldn't sweet 100 shot on this set up.

Thanks :wink:

[Silv3rBull3t]

Well if money was NOT an issue I would completely agree with you EVO but the fact is, most Festiva owners aren't exactly dropping a grand or more on a nitrous setup.. I do think however a WET kit, setup properly, on either the B3 B6 or BP should should be fine as long as you don't run too big a shot. In fact, I was contemplating running a setup from ZEX but I only want to run a 50 shot.. There should be no reason you need more than that... Hell I don't even think slicks could hold up to more of a shot than that let alone drivetrain or engine in a Festiva... :roll: -Kyle

[festivagt]

...

When OEM's tune in a engine management system THEY ARE NOT USING NITROUS. Why would they? Nitrous is ILLEGAL to use in any sanctioned race event other than drag racing. Why tune an EMS to use a product that will not be used for thier warranty purposes? (Common Sense)When nitrous runs lean and burns somthing, chances are you might notice your gauge run lean, or a sudden spike in EGT. EVEN IF you let off, the damage is done. NITROUS WILL COOK ALUMINUM FASTER THAN YOUR GAUGE CAN REACT OR YOU CAN. Don't believe me? TRY IT. Or better yet, call the people that specialize in nitrous applications. There are quite a few out there... Nos, Zex, NX, ETC. Thier techs will tell you that same piece of advice. You SHOULD have a A/F gauge on your car PREFFERABLY a $200 wideband if you are tuning your combo WITHOUT nitrous. Not everyone can afford such a piece. Is it useful for nitrous use? Marginally. A/F gauges are more for the tuning in of a vehicle rather than just spraying a preset amount of fuel and nitrous. The only way the system can run lean is either by puddling or a low fuel pressure. So just like the past generations of nitrous users, you install a fuel pressure gauge and monitor your pressure. A A/F gauge is not required unless you are tuning the EMS to operate without the nitrous injection. I can speak from personal experience. I currently run two different nitrous cars that run 250 hp of spray on each(street and drag just about every weekend) and are still here to show I know what I am talking about. As for the BP intake not puddling, again, call NOS, ZEX or any other nitrous company and they will tell you the same - Dry intake manifolds ARE NOT designed to have a wet kit used on them. Puddling will occur (even wetting on the walls makes it run lean)leading to a lean condition and the chance of nitrous backfire. Most won't even offer a wet kit for anything EFI anymore. Will they sell you one? Sure, it's your motor, what do they care if you fry it? Sure there are people out there running wet kits on motors with dry manifolds and they are still around. But wouldn't you rather have that piece of mind KNOWING that you made the right choice and are not at risk?

[EVOGUN]

If you put a hobbs pressure switch on you gas line, it will break the connection for your Nitrous solenoid faster than your engine can damage its self.

Thanks :wink:

[festivagt]

...

You are right EVO, I did forget to mention the fuel pressure switch. VITAL to avoid damaging your engine when spraying. But it like I was saying it monitors fuel pressure not an oxygen sensor(watches what goes into not out of your motor). It takes human error out of the loop and shuts the solenoids down before it becomes a problem.