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  • perucho
    replied
    Originally posted by Biglay5150 View Post
    Might want to make sure your sway bar bushings are ALL in good shape!!
    yeah, mine are probably worn out.

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  • Biglay5150
    replied
    Might want to make sure your sway bar bushings are ALL in good shape!!

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  • wcbarker
    replied
    Fastivaca Sorry man going fishing in alaska that week, dam sure would like to go to one of these meetings and see some faces

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  • blkfordsedan
    replied
    Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
    actually, it's not the length that matters, it's the ANGLE... it just so happens that the shorter axle typicaly has a steeper angle between trans and knuckle than the long axle does. equalize the angles and things should improve.
    That's exactly right. The purpose behind the mid-shaft is equalize the length of each CV shaft, thereby equalizing the angle. Like I said, if you can reposition the output of the transaxle so it is on the same axis as the wheel hubs (or at least closer) it should help. Although, by changing position you also change (shorten in this case) the required length.

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  • perucho
    replied
    Well, I still have the 1.3 and have some torque steer after an alignment! I lowered the car by cutting 1.5 coils off the front springs and have FMS rear springs. All the struts are KYS gr2s. When I lowered the car, I set the toe in (negative) using the string method. The car drove nicely but had a some steering wheel wobble between 50 and 60 mph and the inside of the tires was wearing faster. Took the car for an alignment and it showed that the toe was -0.65 degrees on each side. They adjusted it to be +0.2 degrees I believe. Now the car pulls left under full acceleration and to the right when I let go of the gas pedal at higher rpms. They even did a thrust alignment. Is this normal? I'm thinking of going back to a slight toe in.

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    actually, it's not the length that matters, it's the ANGLE... it just so happens that the shorter axle typicaly has a steeper angle between trans and knuckle than the long axle does. equalize the angles and things should improve.

    Leave a comment:


  • yvanlavoie20
    replied
    okok not 300hp but 21 psi, bp, 3 in exhaust , stand alone ecu ... bbahhhhhh



    yvan
    Last edited by yvanlavoie20; 03-21-2010, 10:30 PM. Reason: keep it simple and stupid. KISS

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  • baker
    replied
    Yeah just something that comes with a tiny car and 150+ hp. My car was all over the road under boost, although it was never aligned. Makes it alot more fun to drive tho imo.

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  • eurotiva
    replied
    Mine drove straight as an arrow. Even with the festy trans. Mines got fms springs and a redneck alignment.

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  • Nerd Racing
    replied
    I highly doubt your aspire had 300+ hp, even with the mods you had listed. Maybe at the crank but not at the wheels.

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  • yvanlavoie20
    replied
    torq steer !!! lol , turbo and small cars with low $$$ suspension geometry = normal

    300+ hp in aspire ... lol

    my new car .... focus turbo ... 300-320hp... crazy to drive

    yvan

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  • blkfordsedan
    replied
    Originally posted by wcbarker View Post
    Does anyone who has done an engine swap have this problem and if so is there a cure for it.
    mine is very bad and keeps me on my toes all the time.
    Torque steer is caused by the unequal angle between the LH and RH CV shafts. From what I understand, that is the reason the early FWD cars suffered severe torque steer. Eventually, manufacturers started going with a half shaft on higher output applications (like on a B6T/BP with a G25). The more torque, the worse the problem. In theory, if you can get the trans output positioned as close to being in-line with the wheel hubs, the better off you'll be.

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  • big_ty2003
    replied
    soften the front suspension and stiffen the rear

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  • Ghost
    replied
    get it aligned. if your alignment or toe is out, it will walk all over the road under heavy acceleration

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  • fastivaca
    replied
    Hey WC... you coming to Westiva???

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