Porting and polishing heads and adding a turbo to the 1.3

[eye_of_ra93]

Porting and polishing heads and adding a turbo to the 1.3 is it recommended.

[FB71]

port and polish can always help, as long as its done properly. don't get too aggressive removing material. these little engines need all the runner velocity they can get to keep any torque at low rpm. just smooth the transitions, and remember to keep the intake runner somewhat rough. this helps swirl the a/f mix before it enters the chamber. don't over-polish the chamber, keep it looking satin. this prevents the fuel from condensating (forming liquid droplets) on the chamber surface. remember, only vaporized fuel will burn, not liquid fuel. polish the exhaust runner as best you can, this keeps gas velocity high for better scavenging.

as for a turbo, I'm still tempted to try one on a b3 myself. watch your boost level, I'd stay conservative (5-10 psi), and have the piston crowns, chamber bowls and valve heads high-temp coated. watch your compression ratio also. stock is just over 9:1, a little high for a turbo, but still managable at low boost levels.

[eye_of_ra93]

What's in store for the Eye of Ra?

Im pondering a port and polish and will put a new exhaust system. My mechanic in recommending a turbo and upgrading my distributer to one that has a multi spark for fuel efficiency. They will tap into the block and reroute the oil cooling "dont ask me how but they know what they are doing" and do all bearings,gaskets,seals,rings and rods. It would be a quick and lightweight 1.3 I'm looking into a turbo as well and intake will be rerouted from the turbo to the throttle body. I will keep the same throttle body, but may change butterflies and upgrade the fuel pump and do a few other mods to the motor. ETA is late Feb early March. Give me feedback. Thanks Guys. Joseph

[eye_of_ra93]

the turbo

the turbo will be off a dodge colt, chrysler lebaron or a daytona. we'll see.

[eye_of_ra93]

"Eye of Ra" goes to the mechanic Saturday, we are port and polishing, doing all rings, gaskets and bearings, putting a new exhaust system with a Flowmaster 40 series and turbocharging. Wish us luck, I will keep you guys posted.

[kidcurry73]

Sounds cool.

[nonamekid]

Cool, I want to see pics of the exhaust manifold when it is done.

[eye_of_ra93]

I will take pics as work progresses. It should be pretty neat. We are pulling the motor Saturday.

[eye_of_ra93]

My project is nearing completion, I might try to sneak into to my friends garage and sneak some pics. ETA on completion is in abt 3 wks.

[festivagt]

...

If your going to tear down the engine, You should shot peen everything to relieve the stress cracks that are on them, remove any sharp edges on the tops of the pistons (helps control detonation). The single most beneficial thing I did to my B3 was a 3 angle valve job. Made a BIG difference. Also, conider installing new valvesprings if you plan on driving this thing outside of the grocery getter routine. Anything with over 100k on it will benefit from new springs since they do sag with age(valve float). Since your probably not going to get any aftermarket parts for the B3 try to make the stock ones last as long as possible. What are you going to use for fuel enrichment? Just bolting a turbo to the car is a great way to detonate your engine. Without additional fuel, the car will be running lean and <boom> no more engine. If your fuel pump is more than a year or two old, you might want to consider replacing that as well as they don't pump as well as they get on in age. Good luck with your project!!
HENRY

[chris]

also try cryo dipping any and all parts of the engine this is just as good as shot peening did it to my crank and rods and pistons ect ... also speedway motors has a piston top coating to help keep heat off the top of the piston
and call total seal for rings they can make them for a pretty penny
and as for cams Tacoma cam can regrind cams for our cars to your specs for under 100 bucks !!!

my 2 cents

[B6T]

Shot peening does not relieve "stress cracks". If you've got "stress cracks" in your connecting rods, chances are you're going to spit one through the side of your freshly rebuilt engine as soon as you turn the key. What shot peening does is harden the surface of the material while leaving the centre of the material soft and ductile. It makes the rod stiffer, but not so stiff that it will snap (as a result of being too brittle). Heat treating and normalizing are what relieves internal stress, which result from welding, machining, etc. I think you may have the two confused.

One of the easiest and cheapest things you can do to strengthen your engine is to polish your rods. Sounds crazy, but it works. What you want to do is to get rid of all the casting marks and other casting imperfections, which are points of stress concentration that may weaken the rod substantially.

[eye_of_ra93]

I'm getting a 12 point polish, thanks for the input guys, I will talk with the tech regarding those issue's, this motor will be outa hand.

[Safety Guy]

What exactly is a "12 point polish?" I never heard of this one.

Thanks,

Karl

[eye_of_ra93]

Yep its a 12 point port and polish. Not many know how and its risky if you dont know what you're doing. I will get details and post em up here, someone else may be interested in trying such a project. I will pump my tech for details. Wayne J from "808 Built" is doing my project, and I'm excited to have one quick Festiva when it is done. It should launch quick. If I can I will post some info up, but the project is kinda top secret, I dont want many here in NM state knowing what was done to the car "yet."