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  • #16
    Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Post
    what did your oil pump do when it started going out? cause im running a festy crank pulley on mine and im a bit above the power threshold for destroying oil pumps...
    7000k rpms oil pressure went to zero and it started knockin' No warning signs, just shattered
    -Greg
    Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
    BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
    Redneck Engineer
    FOTY - '09
    5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

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    • #17
      Originally posted by eurotiva View Post
      7000k rpms oil pressure went to zero and it started knockin' No warning signs, just shattered
      i think im gonna wire up a big warning light to a oil pressure sensor so if it ever goes below 10psi it will have a big light like STOP!!! if im gonna be putting all this work in to my motor i would hate to have it all go to junk cause of a broken oil pump...


      Mike, AKA the sasquatch
      1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

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      • #18
        Here's what I did:

        Aspire crank pulley that was on the BP when I got it:



        Here it is sitting on the 4G63 Damper:



        Here you can see where I had the pulley hub faced off, then bored out to fit a 1.500" ID thin oilite bearing for a crank sleeve. I also had the correct size locating pin hole drilled 180 degrees off the stock pin hole. The only thing I wish I had added was the proper timing mark.



        Other Face:



        Proper belt alignment: (Something the aspire pulley never quite had right)



        I even used the stock washer to allow even torque when put in place. I used some blue loctite to ensure the bolts did not back out.

        89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
        94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
        2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
        1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit

        Facebook Me!

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        • #19
          Originally posted by sasquatch View Post
          i think im gonna wire up a big warning light to a oil pressure sensor so if it ever goes below 10psi it will have a big light like STOP!!! if im gonna be putting all this work in to my motor i would hate to have it all go to junk cause of a broken oil pump...
          Wire a 7-10 psi switch into relay, to cut power to the coil. Just like a Chrysler ASD relay.
          Jim DeAngelis

          kittens give Morbo gas!!



          Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
          Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

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          • #20
            Could the second serpentine pulley be faced off of that 4G63 damper? I'd almost rather stick with a v-belt, but I don't imagine its real easy to find a v-belt damper that will easily adapt.

            we faced down a stock BP pulley that had a damper once, I'm assuming the mitsu one is better?
            ~Nate

            the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

            Current cars:
            91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
            1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
            2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

            FOTY 2008 winner!

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            • #21
              you would get into the damper cavity if you machined off.
              89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
              94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
              2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
              1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit

              Facebook Me!

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              • #22
                I figured that was the case. The stock EGT one is just steel/rubber/steel and as long as you don't try to take too hard of a cut can be machined down OK. I'm not sure how that affects the damping, but I don't think it would be too detrimental.
                ~Nate

                the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                Current cars:
                91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                FOTY 2008 winner!

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                • #23
                  it will affect he frequency if you remove part of the inertia mass for damping. removal of hub mass does not matter much, but damping mass will change the resonance frequency of the damper.
                  89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
                  94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
                  2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
                  1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit

                  Facebook Me!

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                  • #24
                    ok so do you think if i got new oil pump gears from boundary engineering and left my chopped down escort gt damper on there i would be ok?


                    Mike, AKA the sasquatch
                    1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      [QUOTE=sasquatch;461846]ok im looking in to all the parts to build up my motor and i hear about all the miata guys blowing up oil pumps when they pass the 250hp range... so fordged oil pump gears are a must for my motor but i also want to stick a damper on the end... but there is no way in heck im paying 550 bucks for one.... and i have been doing some reading but ati is not saying "how it works..."

                      but from what i am seeing in the cutout, all it is, is a center hub thats bolted to the crank, then a layer of rubber so there is some flex, then a ring/weight around it all with your belt grove carved in to it...

                      so when it spins, the center hub will take the vibrations from the crank and transfer them in to the rubber and get dampend by the mass of the outside ring... right?

                      So.... what if i made my own... FOR FREE!!!! all i need is a center hub and an outside ring (cam be made easy with a bit of help from a lathe or something... then center them and lay in some rubber and let it harden... (maybe some "window weld" like they use in the motor mount mods...)

                      any ideas?
                      will it work?[/
                      The ATI is $500.00? How much is the motor going to be worth? I would lean towards what Nerd did.Making one from scratch would not be an option. But if you have a lot of cash invested into the motor. $550.00 might not be thtat much.It might keep you from pulling muscles in your butt cheeks everytime you hit red line.
                      Seriously though if you are really concerened.And you know you will be building this same type of motor in the future. Maybe you should think about it? It might pay for itself in the long haul.
                      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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