where is the best G25MR swap guide? :)

[russian]

I have tried searching but failed to locate a simple & clear G25MR swap guide for BP Festiva. Does anyone have anything good bookmarked?

[russian]

I have just scored a Capri XR2 intermediate + right shafts combined for $31...

[NicholasJackson]

Well what do you want to know mate?

It's easier with a cable g series box. Seeing has your bolting it to a bp i gather you have a bp g series flywheel backing plate clutch pressure place and all the bearings? put it all together bolt up the transmission to the motor attach the intermediate shaft to the box and bolt to motor. You going to have to make some custom tranny mounts for it. Mount everything then put in the shafts.

If you have hydro, it's a little trickier. You can either use a cable to hydraulic bracket, some are floating around in fs on this forum i think. If you plan on using the full hyrdo set up your going to need a brake master cylinder from an escort which has a feed that the clutch master cylinder can tap into. As well has the clutch master cylinder, your going to need the pedal assemble from the escort to tap into the clutch master cylinder. Then hook that up to the clutch slave cylinder and bobs your uncle. You going to have to do a bit of fabrication with the pedal assembly as well as bleeding the hydro lines when install the clutch master and slave cylinder.

[russian]

Mostly interested in more info on the tranny mounts. What parts of what mounts can I use to make my life easier & to reduce the amount of fabrication?

[NicholasJackson]

I like this one the best. It's the origial mount cut and two pieces welded and bolted to the original poly mount point. But ive seen it just welded directly to the cross member.

[eurotiva]

Hey that looks familiar ^^

[IdealSociety]

remember though, that mount only works for cable op transmissions, hydro op has the slave going through the front mount so you have to revise for that situation.

[NicholasJackson]

Hey that looks familiar ^^

remember though, that mount only works for cable op transmissions, hydro op has the slave going through the front mount so you have to revise for that situation.

Arrr yes thank you, forgot about that, yeah the hyrdo front mount has to come out a bit to clear the clutch slave cylinder, it's easier then to move the poly mount back a bit or weld it to the cross member.

[shadetree]

Hey that looks familiar ^^

Hey is that an ac condensor ?? And possibly the back of an ac compressor ... lol

[fastivaB6TG25MR]

best swap guide... buy my cross member...lol... that mount looks like it would hold up nicely. i assume you would do the same for the rear mount? it also looks like it probably keeps the stock engine dampening to reduce chassis vibration.

[russian]

Seems like cable G swap is most popular, but I have to go with hydraulic (this one is called G25MR?) - simply for the sake of wider availability, we will probably consume these transmissions if the whole racing thing goes well. But I am converting hydraulic to cable driven... 4 weekends till the race, and I only have a door hinge mounted to the transmission and one tack weld as a kinda reference point - I am using part of the original rear mount combined with a part of escort rear mount, with a 1/4" plate between these pieces...

Kinda horrified about how to figure out the right drivetrain positioning in the engine bay, so still spending a lot of time searching for pictures of successful hydraulic G swaps. My old passenger side bracket-based mount I've used for BP+stock trans does not work as a reference point since the G25mr trans case is hitting the steering rack.

[Advancedynamix]

You'll want the steel cover on the drivers side of the transmission ( reverse and fifth cover) to be as close to the body of the car as possible. This will give you the proper spacing for Capri xr2 axles. I have about 5/16" between my transmission and steering rack. Don't try to keep your axles straight, you will want the engine as far forward as you can get it. It puts more weight on the front wheels which will improve traction and turn in. CV joints last longer when they operate at an angle, if they are straight they wear divots into the outer housing. When they are at an angle they spread the load as they rotate. Just make sure they aren't over articulated at any possible suspension/ steering angle and you'll be fine. I prefer the 6 ball inner CV joints to the tripod ones, but either will work. Mx6, 626 and probe manual trans cars use the same inner cv joints as the Capri xr2. Hope that helps!

[kellen302]

I'm gonna hop in here on this one with a few questions. So I see that Fresh used a spacer on the pass. side of his BP, Anyone got details on that?, And the front mount, if I get ahold of a hydro/cable conversion, Does that simplify the front mount? What're folks using for the front mount, no weld style.
Thanks heaps bros

[russian]

For the front mount, looks like an angle bracket bolted to the festiva or escort round piece should work one way or another. Either you put the round thing into the stock holes, or you drill another hole in the front and use the stock front hole as a back hole

but how would you work the shifter linkage without a welder I have no idea

[kellen302]

I found the post in Fresh's thread that showed all the mounts. From what I can see, no welding except for the REAR mount. I'm not planning to run an intermediate shaft. Any ideas for a rear mount to avoid welding. I can probably get a quick weld in for the linkage at the schoolshop. But I would prefer to avoid welding.