I've used the carbed distributor without the vacuum advance and only the internal centrifugal for advance, but you have to advance the base timing to compensate for the vacuum advance. You also have to add a separate ignition kill switch so you can get the engine turning over with the starter before giving the spark plugs fire. Otherwise, the engine will try to "kick back" with the ignition on and the base timing cranked up.
I've used the carbed distributor without the vacuum advance and only the internal centrifugal for advance, but you have to advance the base timing to compensate for the vacuum advance. You also have to add a separate ignition kill switch so you can get the engine turning over with the starter before giving the spark plugs fire. Otherwise, the engine will try to "kick back" with the ignition on and the base timing cranked up.
Its gonna run on zx600 carbs, but I'll still use the vacuum advance.
I'm extremely serious about this lol. The carbs are soaking in pine sol right now, and I got a chunk of thermal plastic to make the intake flange.
The only thing really up for debate is specific carb placement and runner length.
Unless I can find the xs1100 carbs I have... Then I'll use those.
Most places in Bradford county dont even bother. The emissions rulings in PA weren't upheld by local shops because the equipment cost too damn much, so PA backed off and allowed some counties to not do the testing, based on population, iirc.
We fit the bill. Even if my inspection shop actually cared about the visual emissions test, the only requirements are a cat, charcoal can and recirc system. It'll still have all those.
Lmao.. Youve actually had to go through one of those?
Christ, he probably performs them, its his job.
Curious about soaking the carb in the Pinsol.
Isn't Pinsol an aqueous based solution?
Why not carb cleaner/SeafoamŪ/Chemtool B12?
I know Pinesol is way cheaper, but I'd be concerned about a water based solution.
Have you done this before with good result?
Might want to put up a [WTB] for a '89 distributor.
'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
A lot depends on how long you soak it.
I wouldn't want critical components like carbs siting in an aqueous solution too long as corrosion will soon begin.
Pin sol may, and I do not know this for a fact, have surfactants, emulsifiers, etc. that are specifically detrimental to Aluminum.
In any case a short soak, good rinse, followed by a thorough drying shouldn't be an issue.
Again my concern, is someone thinking they can leave something soaking for days, or more.
Oddly enough, straight Pine Sol is likely less corrosive than the diluted version.
'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
The topic of this thread is no longer valid, btw. I decided to just chase wiring and fix the many issues I was having long enough to drive the car until I can get my hands on a better motor/trans and put my Golf back on the road.
No good reason to put in work, easy as it may have been, if I'm just going to replace the engine/trans with stuff that the work won't adopt to.
Comment