BP Rebuild

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ok, I started this, but it's going to take a minute because I'm freaking out about doing it right. I have Mahle Perfect Circle Chrome Moly piston rings, and they don't have instructions about which side is up for the top ring, one side is red one side is white. On the second ring it has a dot and the other side has a notch on the outside(pretty sure the dot is topside). I don't think the oil ring makes any difference which side is up as long as the squigly one is in the middle? Please bear with me, just need some advice I've never done this before.

I measured the endgap of the top rings so far, 1).018 2).018 3).020 4).019 Haynes manual says .006-.011" is standard but .039" is service limit.

[M3NTAL]

Nice tight gap to reduce blowby, Tighter gaps have their benefits. You just don't wanna go too small on the gap or you could bind the rings together.

ALWAYS USE MANUFACTURES SPECS!

Is the ring tapered on one side slightly?

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for the top rings, not really, the top and bottom are rounded evenly. I swapped the 3 & 4 rings and they came out with .018/.018 all the way across after I measured them, I don't know if they were cocked sideways a hair or what before.. I also measured and swapped the 2nd groove rings to get .016/.016/.017/.017

I'm googling and stuff and can't find a definitive answer wether it matters which side is up on the top ring, and I'm not just going to guess at it, so hopefully someone will know. Gonna start on the crankshaft and stuff since all the ring endgaps are measured at least.

[Nerd Racing]

Call the manufacturer.

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ah.. actually I see a small dot on these, must be the top. It's a really small dot.

[91mcnasty]

I'm watching this one!!! Get her done zoom zoom!!!

[Svttour]

Make sure you clock the compression ring and the oil ring from each other. I can't remember but it's like 90 degrees, or something like that, from each other. I'm Refurring to the ring gap btw.

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^ yessir, I read about that in the books, and my new neighbor who has a b8 in a 94 protege came over to check out my work so far, and come to find out, is a mechanic (!) also pointed that out to me. I am getting ready to install the pistons hopefully today, been cought up trying to source the copper crush washers for the oil squirters, but I can get to them with the crank and pistons installed so I'll get those asap later.


Do I need to lube the main bearings and rod bearings on the backsides that contact the block and rods? I'm using some moly grease to lube everything. The book isn't clear on that, says to just lube the faces, but I don't know..

[blkfordsedan]

Do I need to lube the main bearings and rod bearings on the backsides that contact the block and rods? I'm using some moly grease to lube everything. The book isn't clear on that, says to just lube the faces, but I don't know..

No.....No, no, no , no, no......................:nono:

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hah.. looks like I get to take the crank back out and clean it all again. stupid grease >.< the way it's worded says the main bearings might be lubed, so I did those..

My cousin called me a little bit ago, I started cleaning my transmission instead of messing with the block, he busted the frame on his 4wd s10, so he wants me to weld it back up. Here's a pic of it, I took it when I seen him Saturday..

[Rocketman]

Advance auto has a small selection of copper crush washers. Check the HELP! section too, they might have an assortment. They are also used on brake caliper banjo fittings, you're bound to find something that fits.

I haven't had a need but I am told NAPA has a good selection of washers as well

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The brake line crush washers are close, and probably what I'm going to end up using, but they are a different outside diameter, brake line washers have a smaller OD, the insides looked close enough.

[Rocketman]

as long as you have enough sealing surface you should be fine. Don't overtorque the bolts, they're hollow & easy to snap. I've had to sell a few replacements

Same with the turbo feed banjo bolt.