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Intake mods??

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  • Intake mods??

    Ive searched all around the forms for something but havent found anything worth it. Is there any way to get rid of the big intake thing(big metal square...i think its called a VAF)? I want to completely eliminate that, and just run a straight tube. Will the car still idle without that pluged in?

  • #2
    If you unplug the VAF (yes that's what it is) it will idle for about 2 seconds and die, you need the VAF to run on the stock ECU

    1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
    1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
    2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

    1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

    If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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    • #3
      Your not really going to see any real gains anyways.
      91 Festiva BP Autocross/Track/Rallycross hopeful
      14 C7 Z51

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      • #4
        Alright. Im not looking for a major gain in performance, i would just like more space in the engine bay, considering I have a swapped engine. I just thought i'd ask if anyone knows of a way to eliminate the VAF without hurting the car

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        • #5
          Stand alone. With a different air meter........

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          • #6
            ^^yup pretty much

            1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
            1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
            2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

            1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

            If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

            Comment


            • #7
              If you want to do some serious wiring work, you can run the engine on a Civic/CRX Si ECM from 88-91 as long as you have something close to 1.6L engine... but you'll have to change things about the engine, too.

              The ECM needs a Cylinder Position Sensor (part of the MPFI dizzy on the Civic), IAT, Coolant temp (won't stop it from running), Singe wire O2 (won't stop it from running), you may need a resistor box for the injectors, TPS (Honda TB's might actually bolt onto our manifolds) and MAP sensors.

              Good luck with that, though. You may also be able to bolt a Civic dizzy on our engine, but you'll likely have to redrill the flange to get more than one bolt in, let alone any kind of adjustability. The drive system on the dizzy looks the same. Honda D-series have the coil inside the dizzy, too. You'll either need an external coil kit, or extend the coil wiring to reach the dizzy.

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              • #8
                best bet is to go megasquirt if youre gonna change anything about the engine control harness/computer
                I know its a piece of crap but im still faster...and its 100% legal!!!!!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Post
                  best bet is to go megasquirt if youre gonna change anything about the engine control harness/computer
                  That would be my suggestion, as well. However, if one were inclined to do all that work, it's pretty easy to multi-map a PM6 Civic Si ECM using a larger chip and a socket kit. You can literally set it up to switch maps at the turn of a rotary switch, and the whole job would cost about $40 and a few minutes of soldering time, not counting the time to program and tune each map or burn the ROM.

                  But you're still stuck with the wiring and swapping parts around. Although I didn't think about it earlier, I believe our cars have a CPS on them already, and that might suffice, negating the need to swap a Honda dizzy on. Then all you'd really need is the MAP and an actual TPS instead of the "on/off/on" switch we have, at least on B3's.

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