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  • #16
    thanks a bunch festyboy. you and christ are right on. some of the best advice,ive gotten to date

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    • #17
      Arty, I think you mean the GTA?

      That had the BJ engine; a B6 block with B1 crank and rods and DOHC head. Made 98HP at 7k.
      Jim DeAngelis

      kittens give Morbo gas!!



      Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
      Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

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      • #18
        ^^ yep... wasn't GTU a first gen RX7 trim?
        No festiva for me ATM...

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Movin View Post
          Isn't the 1.6 sohc essentially a b3 bored over? So any over bore in between
          would yield results in between those two, barring the many improvements
          that should be made in such a project.
          Yes, but waaaay over bored. Like 71mm vs. 78mm. Also larger valves, ports, chambers and shorter rods. Same stroke, but rod journals are different as well. So +1.00mm is only adding like ~40cc displacement.

          I thought the B1 had a smaller (68mm) bore than the B3 with the B5 stroke (78.4mm), and the BJ had a shorter (67.5mm) stroke. I could be wrong.
          Last edited by blkfordsedan; 06-05-2012, 01:23 PM.
          Brian

          93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
          04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
          62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

          1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
          Not enough time or money for any of them

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          • #20
            Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
            .....So +1.00mm is only adding like ~40cc displacement.
            It's also adding just over 20% more area to the piston to push down on. Don't know if it'd be a measurable difference, though.
            Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.

            Old Blue- New Tricks
            91 Festiva FSM PDF - Dropbox

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            • #21
              Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
              Yes, but waaaay over bored. Like 71mm vs. 78mm. Also larger valves, ports, chambers and shorter rods. Same stroke, but rod journals are different as well. So +1.00mm is only adding like ~40cc displacement.

              I thought the B1 had a smaller (68mm) bore than the B3 with the B5 stroke (78.4mm), and the BJ had a shorter (67.5mm) stroke. I could be wrong.
              hmmm... my info said 71mm bore and around 68mm stroke for the B1. But, I've been wrong before!
              Jim DeAngelis

              kittens give Morbo gas!!



              Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
              Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

              Comment


              • #22
                looks like you may be right! I need to go back and do more homework!
                Jim DeAngelis

                kittens give Morbo gas!!



                Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
                Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

                Comment


                • #23
                  engine is presently in shop. doing the tests u,mentioned. otherwise it runs fine.i do own tuning. no reason to replace it,other than i like fresh engines. and enjoy blu printing them,to my specs. but,festy is not a car to be changed so easily. [like people] it manages itself. when i refresh engine,ill concentrate on up grading efficiency,not performance. thanks to all u,festy guys.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by FB71 View Post
                    Arty, I think you mean the GTA?

                    That had the BJ engine; a B6 block with B1 crank and rods and DOHC head. Made 98HP at 7k.
                    you're correct, the GTA is what i'm refering to. but i still mean use the B3 block (71mm bore) and B5 (78.4mm stroke)... it'll be slightly larger than a B1 but i doubt you can get your hands on a BJ crank anymore... and use a BJ head (which according to Wiki is ment for a 78mm bore, and therefore a B6D head as well. given that info, i wonder if a B6-ME head would be more suitable).
                    Trees aren't kind to me...

                    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                    • #25
                      I'm still thinking a fresh carby B3 long block, with the cam advanced about 4 degrees would be sweet. Fast and fuel thrifty.

                      Advancing the cam timing lowers the power band. Off idle to 5000rpm, pulling hard. Never rev above 5K.
                      '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

                      '92 Geo Metro XFi

                      '87 Suzuki Samurai

                      '85 F150, modded 300cid

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by BigElCat View Post
                        I'm still thinking a fresh carby B3 long block, with the cam advanced about 4 degrees would be sweet. Fast and fuel thrifty.

                        Advancing the cam timing lowers the power band. Off idle to 5000rpm, pulling hard. Never rev above 5K.
                        I don't anyway. You'd need an adjustable cam gear to get 4* tho, right? I don't remember what each tooth represents.

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                        • #27
                          Christ, I've been meaning to count the teeth. 360 divided by number of teeth will give degree per tooth. One tooth would maybe be 6 degrees.

                          4 degrees isn't carved in stone. It's what distinguishes the Metro Xfi from a non-Xfi 3 banger. My Xfi 1.0L three banger pulls strong and smooth. I bet the B3 would respond to cam advance really well.

                          I may have to look into fabbing an adjustable cam gear, or adapting one from a Suzuki.

                          I'll be coming back to this idea.

                          I'll go count the teeth right now.
                          '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

                          '92 Geo Metro XFi

                          '87 Suzuki Samurai

                          '85 F150, modded 300cid

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                          • #28
                            it's 8* per tooth (rounded off, actual measurement is 7.8 or something)

                            and you can use miata adjustable gears for all B series engines.
                            Trees aren't kind to me...

                            currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                            94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                            • #29
                              So a crank tooth is 16* (basically), right?

                              There's a way to get adjustability without cam gears, but most ppl don't like to do it.... add a second tensioner and use it to take up half tooth belt slack. You put it on the opposite side of the first one. Adjustables are easier, but I've seen ppl do it that way too.
                              Last edited by Christ; 06-06-2012, 11:01 PM.

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                              • #30
                                that would be the math!!
                                Trees aren't kind to me...

                                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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