BP E-series to G-series swap, need engine/trans alignment tips!

[DON SVO]

We tried installing the G-series into my BP festiva Saturday. We got the trans stabbed and mounted, but we got a bit sidetracked with some transmission issues and ended up having to re-install the E-series trans. My ability to get someone to do the fab work on the mounts requires planning, so I was a bit bummed that we wasted 10 hours and couldn't get the job done.

That aside, the issue was in the alignment of the trans and motor as an assembly. I already had the BP in the car with the E-series and it fits perfectly. However, I'm feeling that the engine is going to need to move into a different position than it currently sits. When it was all mounted up, the trans hit the steering box and the engine was torqued forward and toward the passenger front from the existing motor mount position.

Has anyone got some feedback for me? I'd like to be able to go and do the job in a day (this time without any of the snags that were completely unexpected), my friend is a good welder and we have access to damn near anything you would need for metal fab. Do I simply need to cut the existing passenger side motor mount and set the engine/trans assembly into the car and re-weld it? I appreciate any and all feedback!

[Advancedynamix]

Don, I don't have experience with the bp/g series, but you can look at my profile album for the mounts I built for my g5mr swap. Make sure the g series end cover is right up against the sheet metal in the engine bay so you have proper axle alignment (I didn't do that and had problems with axle fitment later.
The g series does position the engine quite a bit further forward.

[DON SVO]

Ok cool. So I'd need to redo the passenger mount as well.

[eurotiva]

I did spacers and used the b3 mount. It still had to be drilled 1 inch closer to the pass side.

1 inch aluminum spacers and old tranny bolts

[DON SVO]

Yeah, I have the B3 mount, cut, and re-welded to move the engine towards the frame rail. I'm looking at yours and seeing that the spacers are moving the engine at least 1" towards the radiator, which makes sense as mine definitely looked like it wanted to go that direction.

[rickter]

I took the original mount and cut every thing off it, so it was just a circle. Then bolted it in to the passenger mount. Then I got the engine where I wanted it with the hoist and with a level on the valve cover and took lots of reference measurements from cover to firewall took some 1/8" flat bar drilled the mount holes bolted it down. Then lined it up tack welded it.Then removed the entire mount so I could take it to the bench and reinforce it and finish welding