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How to Inspect an Oil pump-Mazda BP 1.8L

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  • How to Inspect an Oil pump-Mazda BP 1.8L

    How to Inspect an Oil pump

    Mazda BP 1.8L



    First thing is to have the oil pump off the engine.



    Some of the tools needed



    Impact driver with a #3 phillips bit
    #3 phillips screwdriver
    Hammer
    Needle nose pliers

    Start by using the impact driver and hammer and loosen the oil pump back plate screws.



    Once all the screws are loose, use the screwdriver and remove the screws.



    Now lift away the oil pump back plate.


    Look for scoring and excessive wear on the plate.


    This one looks good with just a minimal amount of wear.

    Now look for wear and scoring on the back of the gears.


    Now reach in a remove the oil pump drive gear.


    Flip it over and inspect the front.



    Now reach in and remove the driven gear.


    Now flip it over and look for wear and scoring.



    Now inspect the pump housing.


    So far this oil pump looks good. No scoring, and minimal wear lines have been found.

    Now time to check the oil bypass


    First is to straighten the cotter pin.

    Use the needle nose pliers.

    To remove the cotter pin, use the needle nose pliers and press down on the spring seat.
    The cotter pin should pull out with your fingers.

    Try not to let the spring seat and spring fly out!


    Remove the spring seat and spring.


    Now remove the plunger valve.


    Inspect the plunger for wear.
    This one had wear on the same side as the bypass hole in the oil pump housing.



    Inspect the plunger bore in the housing.
    I did not see any wear, even below the bypass hole in the oil pump housing.

    I measured the plunger. .628 dia.


    The bore in the oil pump housing measured .6295

    So the clearance is .0015

    Any amount of grit or trash in the oil pan stands a good chance of locking the plunger valve.

    I did not notice any strange wear patterns on the bypass spring ends.



    The bypass spring, by my math, holds the plunger closed with a installed pressure of 10lbs @ 1.430” and 20lbs @ 1.130
    Free length is 1.770
    Dia. of the spring is .440

  • #2
    I posted this today beacuse of what Blkfordsedan posted here.

    Discuss making performance enhancements to the OEM-spec engine in your Festiva or Aspire.

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm curious to see what you get for clearance between the gear teeth, outer gear to housing and end play. According to my Hayne's manual, all B series look to be the same.

      Driven rotor to housing: .0078" max
      Gear teeth (tip to tip): .087" max ------I'm sure this is a mis-print and should be .0087"
      Gear set to housing cover: .0055" max
      Bypass spring free length: 1.791" minimum

      The clearance figures look to be pretty generous to me, I know my new pump is waaay tighter than those max values (like half).
      Brian

      93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
      04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
      62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

      1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
      Not enough time or money for any of them

      Comment


      • #4
        You guys are great!

        I should be doing this sometime soon.

        Karl
        '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
        '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
        '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
        '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
        '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

        Comment


        • #5
          I posted a question over on MT.net in a thread just like this, maybe now i can get an answer..

          What do you do if the plunger is scored around the inlet hole area?


          I couldn't get an answer, but what I did was sand the plunger with 1500 grit to polish it up a little, used a small file to deburr the edges of the bypass tube inlet, and flipped/twisted the plunger around 180* where the good/unscarred side of the plunger would rub the inlet hole.

          Is what I did going to make it worse, or was I on the right track?
          2008 Kia Rio- new beater
          1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
          1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
          1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
          1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
          1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
          1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
          1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



          "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

          Comment


          • #6
            Switch your camera to macro mode or something.
            91GL BP/F3A with boost
            13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

            Comment

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