4 spd to 5 spd

[sactnato]

I was just wondering how difficult it is to change my 88 from a 4 spd to 5 spd, and what additional parts I would need. Thanks!

[eurotiva]

Easy, and none.

I'd recommend new axle seal in the 5 speed before installation, but its the same everything on the outside, just another gear on the inside.

[FestYboy]

things you need: 5 spd trans, time.

that's it.

pulling the trans should take less than 45 min when you get comfortable, but first time around should take twice that. you need the basics: 10, 12, 14, 17, 29mm sockets, 3 and 6" extentions, a good jack with stands, drain pan, a large hammer and long and short pry bars.
drain some of the rad and pinch the upper hose once it's removed from the rad. disconnect the battery. jack up both sides of the car and support with stands, remove the jack to be used later. remove the driver side wheel. remove BOTH of the axle nuts. remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt. with the long pry bar, slip it between the top of the sway bar and bottom of the LCA (at the frame bolt) and pry down (you may need to use the hammer to jar it loose: hitting at the sway bar forward of the LCA). once the knuckle is loose, push the axle through the hub. swing the knuckle out of the way and tie it back. drain the trans. while you're waiting for the trans to finish, hop up top and remove the trans ground, switch connectors, starter wiring (anything connected to the trans). remove the starter and clutch cable assem. remove the speedo cable. REMOVE THE COOLENT TUBE BRACKET at the starter.

back under the car: remove the 2-4 10mm bolts holding the dust plate to the trans. with the smaller pry bar, pop the driver axle loose. remove the 3 mount nuts (one rear, 2 front). with the jack support the end of the trans and remove the crossmember. slowly lower the trans untill the engine rests on the passenger frame rail. now you're ready to remove the last few bolts that attach the trans and engine (4 17mm and a couple 14mm bolts) the trans should stay attached to the engine once everything is out. from up top, grab the starter loop in the trans and wiggle it all free. have someone help you with the passenger side axle by pushing it through the hub.
the trans is out, are we having fun yet?

[scitzz]

things you need: 5 spd trans, time.

that's it.

pulling the trans should take less than 45 min when you get comfortable, but first time around should take twice that. you need the basics: 10, 12, 14, 17, 29mm sockets, 3 and 6" extentions, a good jack with stands, drain pan, a large hammer and long and short pry bars.
drain some of the rad and pinch the upper hose once it's removed from the rad. disconnect the battery. jack up both sides of the car and support with stands, remove the jack to be used later. remove the driver side wheel. remove BOTH of the axle nuts. remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt. with the long pry bar, slip it between the top of the sway bar and bottom of the LCA (at the frame bolt) and pry down (you may need to use the hammer to jar it loose: hitting at the sway bar forward of the LCA). once the knuckle is loose, push the axle through the hub. swing the knuckle out of the way and tie it back. drain the trans. while you're waiting for the trans to finish, hop up top and remove the trans ground, switch connectors, starter wiring (anything connected to the trans). remove the starter and clutch cable assem. remove the speedo cable. REMOVE THE COOLENT TUBE BRACKET at the starter.

back under the car: remove the 2-4 10mm bolts holding the dust plate to the trans. with the smaller pry bar, pop the driver axle loose. remove the 3 mount nuts (one rear, 2 front). with the jack support the end of the trans and remove the crossmember. slowly lower the trans untill the engine rests on the passenger frame rail. now you're ready to remove the last few bolts that attach the trans and engine (4 17mm and a couple 14mm bolts) the trans should stay attached to the engine once everything is out. from up top, grab the starter loop in the trans and wiggle it all free. have someone help you with the passenger side axle by pushing it through the hub.
the trans is out, are we having fun yet?

I saw what you did there...

[georgeb]

I put taller tires on my 4-speed. It makes a 5% diff. I might try some skinny 14s on the front. I prefer a 4-speed.

[sactnato]

Thanks for the info, I just prefer a 5 speed. Now begins the hunt for one. Anyone have one they'd like to sell within a few hours of Virginia Beach? I check ww.car-part.com and the closest yard wants $250. I could probably hold out and find a donor car for a little more than that.

[denguy]

$250 for a good 5 spd sounds pretty good to me.

[Bert]

Thanks for the info, I just prefer a 5 speed. Now begins the hunt for one. Anyone have one they'd like to sell within a few hours of Virginia Beach? I check ww.car-part.com and the closest yard wants $250. I could probably hold out and find a donor car for a little more than that.

I'm with you; the more gears the better. Unless someone lives near you and has one the shipping of a cheap purchase tranny from elsewhere is likely going to eat into the savings. You could call these guys up (ww.car-part.com) and ask them how many Festy trans they've sold over the past year and then politely offer to take that one off their hands for a lesser price.

[Bert]

Festy wheelbase 001 (Large).jpg

I put taller tires on my 4-speed. It makes a 5% diff. I might try some skinny 14s on the front. I prefer a 4-speed.

Car on the right has 155/65-14s on 6 inch wide Rio rims. I rather doubt they make tires that are any thinner and these were clearance bin Hakapelittas (expensive tires normally!) imported specifically for Peugeots, but the cars must have rotted away before they ever got around to getting new tires (I'm guessing).

[Chobobulous]

I had a peugot 306? While I was in germany. I loved that car

[Twistiva]

things you need: 5 spd trans, time.

that's it.

pulling the trans should take less than 45 min when you get comfortable, but first time around should take twice that. you need the basics: 10, 12, 14, 17, 29mm sockets, 3 and 6" extentions, a good jack with stands, drain pan, a large hammer and long and short pry bars.
drain some of the rad and pinch the upper hose once it's removed from the rad. disconnect the battery. jack up both sides of the car and support with stands, remove the jack to be used later. remove the driver side wheel. remove BOTH of the axle nuts. remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt. with the long pry bar, slip it between the top of the sway bar and bottom of the LCA (at the frame bolt) and pry down (you may need to use the hammer to jar it loose: hitting at the sway bar forward of the LCA). once the knuckle is loose, push the axle through the hub. swing the knuckle out of the way and tie it back. drain the trans. while you're waiting for the trans to finish, hop up top and remove the trans ground, switch connectors, starter wiring (anything connected to the trans). remove the starter and clutch cable assem. remove the speedo cable. REMOVE THE COOLENT TUBE BRACKET at the starter.

back under the car: remove the 2-4 10mm bolts holding the dust plate to the trans. with the smaller pry bar, pop the driver axle loose. remove the 3 mount nuts (one rear, 2 front). with the jack support the end of the trans and remove the crossmember. slowly lower the trans untill the engine rests on the passenger frame rail. now you're ready to remove the last few bolts that attach the trans and engine (4 17mm and a couple 14mm bolts) the trans should stay attached to the engine once everything is out. from up top, grab the starter loop in the trans and wiggle it all free. have someone help you with the passenger side axle by pushing it through the hub.
the trans is out, are we having fun yet?

Wow. Now THAT was an awesome post. That's the kind of info I need because I plan on doing the very same thing: 4-spd to 5-spd on my 88L.

THANKS! :thumbs_up:

[FestYboy]

HAHAHA just re-read the initial post... forgot to mention disconnecting the shifter linkage... OOOPS!!!!!!

[KingFish]

Another good tip is to the end of a pry bar inbetween the ears of the balljoint pinch and open it up a touch, and I do mean a touch.