How do I know if I wrecked the circlip

[kellen302]

So I'm doing a BP swap and foolishly assumed that some of the difficult parts would go my way... The intermediate shaft came out easy (G25MR out of a Protege LX) because there wasn't a c-clip but I can't get the driver's stub out. I already cut it down to about 8 inches past the shaft that enters the transaxle because the axle nuts were FUBAR. There is about an eighth of an inch of in/out freeplay. I have limited tools for wailing on it. I've tried the tapping and rotating method but after about 5 min there wasn't even a glimmer of any movement with the clip. I tried looking in from the pass. side axle hole to see if I could see the clip and whatever direction it was pointed, but I couldn't. Is there anyway to tell if I've pinched the c-clip in the axle splines and really goofed things up? How do you guys free the circlip so it "falls" and the gap points down allowing the stub to come out? Yes I've used the search feature many times.

[iceracerdude]

Reach all the way through the hole, around the pinion pin, and dab a little bearing grease onto the other axle hopefully getting some on the clip. Then put the other (short) passenger side back in, that will help to stabilize the diff carrier, then use TWO pry tools evenly at the same time on the other side to pry.
See, using only one pry tool actually sets up a binding issue!

[zoom zoom]

Yea what he said, bottom line is you have to man up and pry pull or rip that sucker out of there without cracking the case.

[kellen302]

So I get that I have to use 2 prybars, but how do I get them in there, the engine/trans is out of the protege and on the ground. So there's about 6 inches of space between the bottom side of the axle cup and the ground. Do I need to hoist it up to do it, that seems like all of the energy would get wasted in swinging the engine. This is just a little infuriating.

[bravekozak]

The big screwdriver is only used to exert the smallest amount of pressure. The main trick is to ring the hammer on the tripot bell to center the clip by having the vibrations jar it into position. You shouldn't need two prybars if you do it right.

[rbrown]

This seem to be a recurring deal here lately.

Since this out of car it might be a bit more difficult. Nothing there to hold it while you pull.

[kellen302]

I would've pulled them in the car, but due to it's crashy history, there wasn't enough room in the engine bay to stick my arm down, much less a prybar or hammer. I'll get my friend with the air chisel over on Wednesday so we can see if the vibrations on the axle cup (not the case) will knock the clip loose.

[rbrown]

Like I said in one of the many threads on this, I could not get the drivers side out of my Festy. But the Capri was easier. There is something to being able to "get a running start" when you put force on pulling. Like a slide hammer. We need to invent a BIG long slide hammer

[zoom zoom]

I wouldn't go anywhere near that thin aluminum case with an air chisel.

[iceracerdude]

So I get that I have to use 2 prybars, but how do I get them in there, the engine/trans is out of the protege and on the ground. So there's about 6 inches of space between the bottom side of the axle cup and the ground. Do I need to hoist it up to do it, that seems like all of the energy would get wasted in swinging the engine. This is just a little infuriating.

Well how did you pull the engine in the first place? What, the incredable hulk showed up for an hour, and has since gone home for snacks? Unbolt the trans (use an air wrench if you want to go fast)
Then put the trans on a cart, or a bench, or a pallet, or even the hood of a powder blue lincoln. Look I know you're no Navy Seal, but you can do this...you gotta want it!
I personally prefer the Lincoln hood because when done right, you can get a little chalk board screech thing going on.

[Movin]

You don't get your doctorate in artistry of air chisel until you get a
festiva axle out with a big bad double hammer air chisel with the
hammer bit installed of course. One pry bar and hammer the tulip
on the other side. Rotate and repeat for no particular reason. Success
means no trips to ER and no damage to transmission itself..you may
even get the part out! No matter what you try you will eventually
wear through the blockage and have the offensive part in hand.

[denguy]

Has anyone ever investigated how they get the axles out at the Kia or Mazda dealership garage?
This is your mission, if you chose to accept it.

[frankm201]

I feel alittle better that I'm not the only person havin serious problems getting this damn axle out.
I work at a audi, lexus, porschea, ford dealership an have asked all of the techs what to do about really stubborn axles an all they said is they use a large screwdriver an pry it out, or punch it out from the other side but I still can't do it so I don't know....

[kellen302]

For those wondering how I got it out of the car, I had to cut the axle about 12-18 inches from the transmission, and then we had to "widen" frame with aforementioned air chisel and an angle grinder. I won't touch the case with the air chisel, but putting it to the axle cup will hopefully vibrate it enough to drop the clip. Once the clip drops, assuming it's not bound up in the splines, does the axle slide easy or does it still need a pretty good tug?

[denguy]

Looked but couldn't find any magic with Google.

http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/88211/How+do+I+remove+axle+from+transmission