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CorkSport adjustable camshaft pulley for the B3

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  • CorkSport adjustable camshaft pulley for the B3

    If you like experimenting with your B3 like I do then you may want to investigate an adjustable cam pulley. Adjusting the camshaft timing can alter the power band of the little B3 to fit your driving needs.

    I offer this simple writeup for folks interested in tuning, however I cannot confirm any benefits because my application is too different to compare data. My car (Miata) is slightly heavier and has completely different gear ratios in the transmission. Overall my results may differ than yours.

    This project has the same difficulty as changing the timing belt... and while your at it... you should change the timing belt.

    Unfortunately the only pulley that will fit is from a DOHC Mazda engine and you have to buy two units. The CorkSport pulleys look nice but others are available. Figure anything for a 90-97 Mazda Miata DOHC 1.6 - 1.8 will work. Other years may be ok.

    Before you begin, you should get out the timing light and set the base ignition timing. Connect the STI connector to ground and adjust the ignition to 10* BTDC.

    The CorkSport cam sprockets are identified by E for exhaust & I for intake. The timing marks on the intake sprocket are in the correct position however the exhaust sprocket has the marks in the wrong spot. I chose to use the exhaust sprocket because it is harder to sell ( I have a buyer interested in other one).

    Anyway, setting the base ignition timing was a way to confirm the cam timing was also correct when the engine was running again. This is an excellent way to confirm all is well before you start changing the cam timing.

    The Corksport pulleys were never meant to be installed on a B3 and I have no idea how they fit on a DOHC engine, but I did find that the pulley did not automatically center on the B3 camshaft. There is about a 015 (fifteen thousandths) slop between the cam bolt and the pulley. Perhaps a genuine Miata cam bolt is different and take up this slop, but a Festiva cam bolt will not center the sprocket well enough.

    I carefully cut some aluminum tape about 1/4 inch wide and wrapped the cam bolt to make up the slop and perfectly center the pulley on the camshaft. (See picture) I also use a larger washer.

    The pulley installs and centers perfectly. You need to apply the correct torque to the bolt and may need to remove the cam cover to gain access to the hex shaped segment on the camshaft use to provide counterforce. Using the belt for counterforce may not be enough.

    Once the cam sprocket is installed, start the engine and confirm the ignition timing is correct... if not.. then check your work.

    You are now ready to change the cam timing. Remember, everytime you adjust the cam timing you need to set the base ignition timing. Advancing or retarding the cam also changes the ignition timing so keep that in mind.

    I'm currently running an Aspire roller cam from an engine originally equipped with an automatic transmission. I found that 4.5 - 5.5 degrees advance has improved fuel economy slightly. My Megasquirt remaps the fuel trim for a perfect tune and I'm not sure if a stock ECU can handle this amount of change.

    In the near future I'm going to put the non roller cam back in the B3 and experiment with the timing. The final results are pending.



    This is the exhaust pulley, its the one with the wrong timing marks. install it with the slot up (red dot).

    The intake pulley has the correct marks and installs normally.

    Also note the cam bolt has been modified by wrapping aluminum tape around the shank to make up for some slight slop. The larger washer should be used to distribute the pressure correctly.




    B3 with an adjustable cam pulley.


    Have fun!

    Jim

  • #2
    I was kinda wondering how long it would take someone to try this. I really regret selling my set when I decided to go SOHC, but i didn't know they were interchangeable between SOHC/DOHC at the time. :/

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    • #3
      I find it scary that if all those bolts ever loosened and the teeth moved to a different position while you are driving. I know the timing belt would snap before that happened. I can't imagine needing that much advance or retard (+/- 10 degrees).
      I'm more old school and would prefer installing an offset key.
      No spec sheet ever came with the Festivamotorsports cam.
      So, I never degreed the cam.


      By the way, the Kia Pride part number for the upper timing case cover is MB6AG10510.
      Last edited by bravekozak; 12-22-2012, 10:37 PM.

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      • #4
        I would at least find overlap then stay in that range to dial in the cam.
        Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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        • #5
          Just leave the bolts loose and call it VTEC :p

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          • #6
            Re: CorkSport adjustable camshaft pulley for the B3

            Only YOU can prevent Honda drivers.
            In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright:
            There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"

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            • #7
              from what? lol
              Trees aren't kind to me...

              currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
              94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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              • #8
                It appears the marks on the sprocket reference cam degrees. If you advanced it 4.5 - 5.5 cam degrees, then you advanced the valve timing a fair amount (9 - 11).
                Brian

                93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                Not enough time or money for any of them

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
                  It appears the marks on the sprocket reference cam degrees. If you advanced it 4.5 - 5.5 cam degrees, then you advanced the valve timing a fair amount (9 - 11).
                  Hi Brian,

                  That sounds like a lot! Anything I should be worried about?

                  My method of advancing the cam was 1* per 120 miles of driving. The MPG trend kept going up. There are other factors like ambient temperatures that may have skewed the results.

                  I noticed the AFR was out of whack every time I adjusted the cam and I had to modify the VE table with autotune. I also had to modify the ignition curve slightly. I tried to tailor fit each change in cam timing with modified tables to accommodate different profiles.

                  Lots of room for error but in general the changes in the tables alone won't produce the same results without adjusting the cam..... but it is possible different weather conditions also had some weight on the results. So may variables and not enough data.

                  Thanks for the heads up!

                  Jim















                  Jim

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                  • #10
                    Nothing to really worry about. Valve timing events (like you would get on a cam spec card) express the valve events in crankshaft position or degrees with regard to Top or Bottom Dead Center. People get the cam sprocket off by a tooth all the time, and that's like 7.8 cam degrees. Usually that just makes it run like crap. Im a little surprised it continued to improve advancing it that much, but it depends on the cam grind. Also, you're focusing on MPG and not dyno tuning for overall power. If its giving you the results you want, then thats what its all about! Did you shave the head?
                    Last edited by blkfordsedan; 12-23-2012, 09:18 PM.
                    Brian

                    93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                    04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                    62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                    1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                    Not enough time or money for any of them

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sweet! This is something I've been wanting to do for quite awhile.

                      Hey Fijioko...how about a link to the Miata? Does it still have the Samurai tranny? I remember the belt-drive distributor!
                      '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

                      '92 Geo Metro XFi

                      '87 Suzuki Samurai

                      '85 F150, modded 300cid

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                      • #12
                        Hi 'ya ElCat,

                        The three cylinder car is alive and well. Google "G10 Miata" and the build thread is the third one down. I'll be driving the three cylinder car until March and then I'll put the B3 miata back on the road.

                        Jim

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