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  • shift rods

    We had to modify the shift rods on the "Smurf car" when the "F" transaxle (1989 Tracer donor car) and we have some "grinding" when we shift into reverse. The clutch etc are all brand new, This leads me to believe that we do not have the shift forks in their proper position. We will have to cut the rods and change the angle of the front of the rod to the back of the rod. Does anyone have any suggestions on how we will be able to achieve this? Has anyone else had to modify their shift rods for a particular application>

    cortezit

  • #2
    If you put it in first gear to synchronize it, then shift into reverse, will it still crunch? I've driven many factory original cars that would crunch going in to reverse. Usually if you shift into a gear first it helps.
    Brian

    93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
    04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
    62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

    1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
    Not enough time or money for any of them

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    • #3
      Reverse doesn't have a syncro, so you only go into reverse when you aren't moving. If you get a grind when you are moving and it is popping out of gear, the shifting rod is probably too short. You can check this by lifting up the boot and seeing if the shifter is hitting the edge of the opening.
      The Festiva Store
      Specializing in restoration, tuning and custom parts.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by cortezit View Post
        We had to modify the shift rods on the "Smurf car" when the "F" transaxle (1989 Tracer donor car) and we have some "grinding" when we shift into reverse. The clutch etc are all brand new, This leads me to believe that we do not have the shift forks in their proper position. We will have to cut the rods and change the angle of the front of the rod to the back of the rod. Does anyone have any suggestions on how we will be able to achieve this? Has anyone else had to modify their shift rods for a particular application>

        cortezit
        Yes I've done this,its quite easy.You make it adjustable I can post pics if you still need help.
        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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        • #5
          some flicks would be of great benefit. Thank you

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          • #6
            Originally posted by cortezit View Post
            some flicks would be of great benefit. Thank you
            Ask and you shall receive :thumbs_up: This will allow you to adjust shifter in two ways. 1)Fore/Aft 2)Allows you to set how the shifter leans towards/away from you. Make sure you tighten jam nut VERY tight. All this is done last after you have cut and welded the other main shifter tube.And of course this is all done for the reason of custom trans locating.




            Last edited by nitrofarm; 04-30-2013, 04:27 AM.
            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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            • #7
              This is a pretty slick solution to this problem. I have another "F" series transmission from another 1989 Mercury Tracer which I am going to have a tranny guru go through. It came out of a car whose owner was a fan of synthetic lubricants so it is in pretty good shape as it sits.

              I want to make certain that after I complete the "Matt Dickmeyer makeover" that I don't have to take it apart again. Actually I am having a mechanic friend of mine who owns his own shop do the work for me. It still costs me money but I can stand under the lift and "bitch at him" (we have been friends for years).

              When it is all said and done I will post some flicks of the "Smurf car".

              cortezit

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cortezit View Post
                This is a pretty slick solution to this problem. I have another "F" series transmission from another 1989 Mercury Tracer which I am going to have a tranny guru go through. It came out of a car whose owner was a fan of synthetic lubricants so it is in pretty good shape as it sits.

                I want to make certain that after I complete the "Matt Dickmeyer makeover" that I don't have to take it apart again. Actually I am having a mechanic friend of mine who owns his own shop do the work for me. It still costs me money but I can stand under the lift and "bitch at him" (we have been friends for years).

                When it is all said and done I will post some flicks of the "Smurf car".

                cortezit
                Thanks hope it helps someone, sometime. I found its best to put the tranny in neutral then "center" the shifter inside the car from the drivers seat.Then tighten the jam nut with a German Torque wrench. aka GOODIENTITE
                Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                • #9
                  Thread resurrection but is this a viable way to modify the stock linkage for use with a g-series?
                  91' Festiva GL Auto EFI--- BP swapped, G-Series swap in the works.
                  Adjustable VW MK2 front suspension and Aspire disc brakes
                  Aspire rear axle and drum swapped with adjustable KYB rear suspension

                  LOOKING FOR RUST FREE SHELL IN CALIFORNIA

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                  • #10
                    The pics are gone?
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                    • #11
                      Nitro, I can still see them but since you said that you've done this would you say that this can be done for modifying stock linkage to be used with the g-series? Also do you remember what size threaded rod and nut did you use?
                      91' Festiva GL Auto EFI--- BP swapped, G-Series swap in the works.
                      Adjustable VW MK2 front suspension and Aspire disc brakes
                      Aspire rear axle and drum swapped with adjustable KYB rear suspension

                      LOOKING FOR RUST FREE SHELL IN CALIFORNIA

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                      • #12
                        Powerstiva,this would work on any linkage that you need to have adjustabilty. And I used Metric threaded rod but I cant remember the size.. Maybe 17mm? The only thing with using threaded as opposed to a turnbuckle. You have to take the bolt out of the tranny fork,then turn one end of the rod. Then reinstall the bolt & check for fitment. A turnbuckle would have reversed threads on one end and make it a little easier.
                        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                        • #13
                          Would a turnbuckle be suitable for this application? I've never used one before also I'm not sure where to find one.
                          91' Festiva GL Auto EFI--- BP swapped, G-Series swap in the works.
                          Adjustable VW MK2 front suspension and Aspire disc brakes
                          Aspire rear axle and drum swapped with adjustable KYB rear suspension

                          LOOKING FOR RUST FREE SHELL IN CALIFORNIA

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                          • #14
                            Also do you know how much I need to take out of each rod for a g-series?
                            91' Festiva GL Auto EFI--- BP swapped, G-Series swap in the works.
                            Adjustable VW MK2 front suspension and Aspire disc brakes
                            Aspire rear axle and drum swapped with adjustable KYB rear suspension

                            LOOKING FOR RUST FREE SHELL IN CALIFORNIA

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Powerstiva View Post
                              Would a turnbuckle be suitable for this application? I've never used one before also I'm not sure where to find one.
                              You dont need it just use threaded rod

                              Originally posted by Powerstiva View Post
                              Also do you know how much I need to take out of each rod for a g-series?
                              You'll have to measure it when the tranny is installed
                              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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