posi stock tranny?

[Micro Mudder]

There any way to make a stock festy tranny a posi ? That's cheep but safer and stronger then welding spider gears? I had a truck with a posi rear end and people always said it would make me go through tires way faster but it wasn't true at all but it only squeeked a little when gunning it through u turns so how much differnt will it be with fwd?

[rmoltis]

There is an LSD kit you can Buy for it.

I believe its called phantom grip.
I remember a couple members utilizing this kit.
I think one of them was iceracerdude.

Maybe someone else could chime in as well.

[Micro Mudder]

Well I'm trying to build my car as cheepp as possible and utlize as much power from my bp as possible and I was reading one of the forms and its like 700 I read for the phantom grip so basically I want to know if there is a member who has welded spider grears is it worth doing sence its basically free to do

[Zanzer]

Phantom Grip (Phantom Slip)

MFactory

And I'm trying to get more info on a factory unit that was used in the Mazdaspeed Protege


I wouldn't weld the spiders, you're just asking for trouble.

[rmoltis]

I was reading one of the forms and its like 700 I read for the phantom grip

The phantom grip is 299.95

Never go by what you "read"

Use it as a guide

Guide being something that points you in the right direction

Go look it up and see for yourself.
And make your own judgement calls.

http://www.phantomgrip.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=61&category_id=17&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=9

[jason_]

Well I'm trying to build my car as cheepp as possible and utlize as much power from my bp as possible and I was reading one of the forms and its like 700 I read for the phantom grip so basically I want to know if there is a member who has welded spider grears is it worth doing sence its basically free to do

I welded spiders many times. Never had problems once I learned the tricks. Done Transaxles for friends, and many rear ends of my own with God knows what coming from the gearbox output shaft from built 383 strokers and high compression larger displacements.

Preheat with torch to get the oil off and iron to temp, even wash with gas and compressed air, and use 7018, gears are tuff stuff. And don't skimp, lay it heavy.

Not sure on aluminum Transaxles, but using cast iron gearboxes, I kept having problems snapping axle shafts from the differential getting wild with clutch and lay blackies with fat tall tires....

Then again, I'm not the average Joe with bare straight truck frames with rear ends across them stacked like log firewood 5ft high and 20ft long.... So I'm not scared to break anything.

Just nuts and bolts and fun.

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[Micro Mudder]

So basically welding them if your confident and a skilled welder won't be a problem if you don't hotrod around corners and popping the clutch and stomping on the breaks I sould be fine cuz I can role my car easy has big tires, and stock breaks so I should be fine? Yes? If I do blow out the transaxle I got an escort gt tranny with a brand new cluth I can fab a fue mounts and shifting linkage to fit so worth the risk?

[Zanzer]

When you weld the spiders you are basically making a redneck spool (or a Lincoln Locker called by some) out of the diff. When you go around a turn the inside tire turns slower than the outside tire. Spools were created for dirt track racing where the tires are spinning in the turns anyway and straight line drag racing. A spool on the street will load the axles at different rates in turns and eat tires much faster. Plus it will effect wet handling traction. And remember, this will be on a FWD car where you are doing this to the steer tires.

But to each his own.

[jason_]

When you weld the spiders you are basically making a redneck spool (or a Lincoln Locker called by some) out of the diff. When you go around a turn the inside tire turns slower than the outside tire. Spools were created for dirt track racing where the tires are spinning in the turns anyway and straight line drag racing. A spool on the street will load the axles at different rates in turns and eat tires much faster. Plus it will effect wet handling traction. And remember, this will be on a FWD car where you are doing this to the steer tires.

But to each his own.

I never said it was perfect.


Like he said. Cheap. Locked = eats tires. And it'll be wild on a drive/steer car.

It's worth the risk if you don't care if something blows apart

Cars/trucks/vehicles mean nothing to me. They'll break, they'll wear out, they'll rust, they'll loose value no matter what you do, and they'll still cost to insure and drive. I'm sure that's the reason I had KMR stop in and pancake 300 a few years ago.

So I mistreat them. In my eyes, automobiles are not an investment. Reason I have thousands in my savings and 401k, and not parked in my driveway.

Go for it. My opinion, it's gonna raise hell on the CV shaft sockets, and I wouldn't drive it down the e-way because of it eating tires on the long sweep curves, she'll squeal like a stuck pig making corners, and stay off wet pavement if over 30mph.

But at least you'll be guaranteed 100% traction lock for the torque being put to them. Right? Do it. Learn from it. Have fun.

I'm afraid you've never played with a setup like this on a RWD, and hence, misunderstanding the effects and possibilities on a FWD.

Maybe limited slip or locker might be more down your choice. Locking both axles stoutly together I'm 99% sire you'll end up with something miserable for anything else then track use.

I was detailing welding the spiders, but maybe I misunderstood you're understanding of afterwards?







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[Micro Mudder]

Yea I know that it bad on tires and every thang else but I'm doing it! But ill baby it on the street but my car won't be any worse in the rain cuz with fat big tires on a light car it hydroplains easy so adding a posi won't make it any worse because the outcome for what I'm. Building my car for will be verrrry usefull off road and mud so pros over cons its worth it

[rmoltis]

Just remember with wide tires and a constant tire eating that will go on.

A set of tires for wider rims can run $400-$600 plus for a set.

Depending on how often you replace them.

So remember cutting costs now may end up costing more in the long run over time
In new tire costs/hassle.
Negating the cost saved doing it the cheap way.

Just try and keep an eye on the bigger picture of your build
Not necessarily what's easy, fast , cheap and right now.

It sucks looking back on mistakes made by choices in the past haunting you in the future.

But hey if you have a new donor transmission and are willing to source new axles
And weld up custom mounts later than by all means do it.

And it would just be a temporary thing.

[Micro Mudder]

Yea axles won't be to hard to find and yea I know I'm not welding the spiders just yet I want to get my car road worthy first

[zoom zoom]

I wouldn't be using 7018's on it either, that's about the same as fluxcore on cast iron. A friend of mine told me he has the rods to do this properly for me, and they cost him $250/25 rods, but he owes me a favor. I don't even know what it is I'm not that familiar with stick welding anymore, stuff I do is all 6012 or 7018's 1/8"-1/2" and doesn't have to be perfect. If it was that easy I wouldn't have even thought twice about it and done it myself but several people I've talked to including guys who own/run dirt track cars said normal rods just don't burn.

[jason_]

I wouldn't be using 7018's on it either, that's about the same as fluxcore on cast iron. A friend of mine told me he has the rods to do this properly for me, and they cost him $250/25 rods, but he owes me a favor. I don't even know what it is I'm not that familiar with stick welding anymore, stuff I do is all 6012 or 7018's 1/8"-1/2" and doesn't have to be perfect. If it was that easy I wouldn't have even thought twice about it and done it myself but several people I've talked to including guys who own/run dirt track cars said normal rods just don't burn.

!!! You use 99 nickel on cast iron! Cut gears contain carbon for strength, hence higher tensile rod required for bond to meet the material so the weld doesn't give first.... But a trade off on brittleness..... Reason they chip and not bend..... Welds and gears...

110 and 120 thousand #/si is about that price... I suggested 7018 because it hasn't failed yet.

First # is tensile, 2nd is position....

60/11, 70/18, 110/18......

Wtf? I'm done with this thread....

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[Micro Mudder]

Just use golden rod (probably what your friend used) expensive and a pain to use but is crazy strong I've had people be able to weld castiorn to steel but 70/18 is by far the better easier stronger choice and easiest to weld with I think others say otherwise if not the 5 years of welding I've done has been wasted and I need a new profeshion if I can't do semple welds on spider gears