posi stock tranny?

[Movin]

Nobodies being the devils advocate here so...what about all the blown diffs caused by one wheel burnouts?? We all have seen the u-tube races followed by the pics of spider gear shaft holes through the case. A welded gear would equalize those crazy stresses and help the trans to last longer, not shorter.

What about the slip - grab that happens on slippery surfaces, problem way improved with the lincoln locker lol.longer lasting trans.

When one wheel spins and the engine is full on at say 6500 rpm the one wheel is spinning twice as fast as the two welded wheels would. Seals and high rpm mud followed by the hammer slam of traction will be subjected to far less stress and the concrete slurry will be less damaging to seals.

Spider gears spinning like a blender don't make margaritas!!
They foam the oil. j

[Micro Mudder]

So if you know how to drive the welded spiders could actually be easier on your trasaxle? Little bit harder on your wheels if you allways turn but you drive stright 99% of the time. So basically its worth the shot doing sence the motor and tranny are out of the car already

[zoom zoom]

Your gonna get in a wreck and hurt someone.

[Movin]

its kinda like driving a 4x4 locked in 4x4 on the pavement. It works on dirt gravel and mud.

[Micro Mudder]

and I've had 4x4s with locked differenchls but they wernt welded that's what my question was if the tranny would hold up I know it will be a pain to drive but its a festiva how could I possibly hurt someone with it! I think I've hit a bug before and hurt it and a cat walked away after hitting it at 60 so I won't hurt any one! in the long run I may regret it but that's the point of experimenting cuz I got a bunch stuff to help it off road so its a learning curv for me with my setup

[bhazard]

-___-

[Rocketman]

Are we really talking about a welded diff as a streetable option here????

I'd take my chances with a Phantom Slip and shredding the differential first, lol

[Micro Mudder]

As in I weld them here in kc then when I'm done test them on a 200 mile trip back home so I can drive dirt roads again to work haha but that just sounds like it just might end bad already

[Zanzer]

I know it will be a pain to drive but its a festiva how could I possibly hurt someone with it!

I don't think you realize that if you lose an axle or splines on the end of the axle for any reason all the torque is going to be immediately applied to the other wheel and the car is going to make a sharp and violent turn very abruptly. This is all fine and good if you're the only person on the road but what if this was to happen on an interstate or busy highway with other cars around you? Say on your "200 mile drive"? If this were a track only car I'd say go for it. But if you're planning on driving it on street you need to remember that there are other people on the road with you.


This guy was running a welded diff and an axle let go in 3rd. Luckily he was alone on the track, but imagine if that had happened on a busy street with other traffic around him.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?hl=en&gl=US&client=mv-google&v=v2CMR63SUJU&feature=youtu.be&nomobile=1

This guy spit an axle while driving home from the track one night. Luckily all he did was take out a power pole and total his car. At least he didn't take anyone with him and he walked away.







It's your car so do what you want, but remember sometimes other people have to pay the consequences for your poor decisions.


Not trying to be an *** or anything, just want you to realize the possibilities and the outcomes.

I'm done done with this.

[sketchman]

In addition to the Phantom Slip there is a much cheaper option that Neonners have used. It's not safer than the Phantom, but WAY cheaper and simpler. It also works on the same principle as the Phantom. I have a spare Neon diff that I can measure the space between the gears if someone can check a Festiva, we can know for sure if it'll work or not.
Copied the whole article from mnneons.net.
All but one of the pics are gone, but info is all there.

Why use Ford parts on a neon?
Because it is affordable and and functional. Period. If a Honda intake manifold would bolt up and flowed better than stock, I'd have one. Spare this thread the " I hate fords" comments. Fords has plenty of credentials in the racing scene to back up their stock transmission components.

How does diff mod compare to the Phantom Grip, OBX, and Quaife
It has been stated the 95 mustang diff spring (part # EOAZ-4214-A) performs above the phantom grip. Cost is $11.99 plus tax. Never used of been in a car with the PG, so no comment there. The car does seem to respond more directly to acceleration and launching. Very little spin from my worn tires dropping it from 2k. May try 2500rpm drop at the track. The OBX requires some work to avoid failure. For $500, it should be done before I get it. Seems to work well afterwards though. The Quaife is $1200. That cost more than I paid for my trans, car, seats, etc.. Do not think I'll need such a part for the driving I do. Also heard it makes normal driving a chore, but have nor experienced it first hand to confirm.
CarltonPowers:To date, there have been two failures from those that installed them on their own, and two that have them operating correctly. All the diffs I did (about 4) are installed in the trans and are alive and well

Here all part numbers associated and installation information will be listed.

7.5" Ford Differential Spring (Ford Part# E4DZ-4214-A)
-This is the smallest diff spring. It can be purchased separately from the entire ford diff assembly. Cost is about $11.99. To install into a neon diff requires a vice of sorts to force the spring into the neon diff. No machine work is required for this installation. This spring was used in the ford SVO mustang, and Ford Ranger. Here is my write for the 7.5" diff spring:

Finally had time to get this all done. P You will have to hit the retainer pin from the underside of the diff to remove. You'll see when you have yours out. Took a few whacks, so be patient and careful not to hurt yourself.

Ford part# E4DZ-4514-A Cost $22.50. Ordered in the afternoon and arrived same day. That's nice[/Borat]

Diff from my spare trans out of a 97 5speed stratus. Seems any 5speed or atx the was mated to a neon compatible block will work. The diff is the point of concern

Be sure to remove the plastic speedo gear before removing the dowel pin that holds the diff in place. The diff retainer pin will come in contact with the plastic ring gear if not removed prior. Gently pry it out with a flathead screw driver.

Weapon Of choice. This part all depends on you. Previous comments speak of machining down the spider gears for ease of entry. The upper and lower gears have a bit of a lip there. I saw that as greater holding power under load, so I chose to use some force.

With the table vice being only so long, the diff was inverted. This part was slightly challenging, but is still pretty simple at the same time. Had to hold the diff at an angle to get the S-spring into position. When applying pressure from the table vice, check every few turns to be sure the S-spring is centered. Be sure to allow about an hour to get this done. If the spring is not centerd, it will start to bend when it comes in contact the the spider gear on the side. Use a long sturdy screwdriver, or other prying tool to correct.

Cost run down & tools required:
1/8" pin punch - $2.38
12" flat head screw driver
13mm socket
3/8 rachet/breaker bar
claw hammer/mini sledge
table vice
red loc tite
diff saver tabs $5.xx
S-spring =$22.50


8.8" Ford Differential Spring (Ford Part# EOAZ-4214-A)
-This spring the the mid-sized spring. This is the same spring used in the rear differential of the 1989-1995 Supercharged Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar XR7, 1987 Turbo Coupe Thunderbird, and the 1995 mustang GT. All of the following produce 40+ more base horse power, so this part is build to take some power. This installation for the 8.8" spring requires the machining down of the smaller lateral spider gears. The 8.8" spring is taller than the 7.5" spring, and will become wider when compressed into the neon differential. When grinding down the smaller lateral spider gears, take care to keep the surface smooth and even. Check periodically, by installing back in diff, to see if enough material has been removed to clear each side of the 8.8" spring.

F-150 Differential Spring (Ford Part# F3TZ-4214-A)
-This is the largest diff spring found in most Ford trucks. The installation of this spring is similar to the 8.8" spring, though this installation requires the machining of the smaller and larger spider gears. Only one install has been completed, and shipped. Results and performance are unknown at this time.

Here is a pic by DJScorpio67 comparing the F-150 spring to the 8.8" spring:


Super8neon also suggested the use of a magnetic drain.

The phantom grip was known for shaving metal either off the spider gears, or itself into the trans fluid. The magnet would be helpful to prevent damage. Get one regardless.

As cheap as the S spring is, I see no reason to chance welding a diff for a street car.

[zoom zoom]

I'm not in a hurry to get my spare tranny opened up but if you take a pic and some measurements of the neon diff i'll do the same with my aspire diff when I get it out.

[sketchman]

Will do.

[drumnerd33]

I come from a background of rock crawling, and yes you could weld the spiders, very commonly done on a rock crawler.... but not a street driven rock crawler.... some people do it but it will cause broken axles and extremely quickly worn out tires. Also somebody mentioned on here in slippery conditions, a welded diff is extremely dangerous on wet or slippery roads, and if you weld your front diff it will cause you to go straight when trying to turn a corner and hit maybe ,water, dirt, snow, oil,.... anything that causes loss of traction will cause you to go straight off the road or into oncoming traffic. PLEASE do not do this and take the chance of hurting yourself or anybody else on the road around you.

[Movin]

Znazer, that car had too much suspension rubber , that allowed too much flex, that allowed the suspension geometry to to change so much that the axle disconnected and stripped with less than half the splines engaged. Not the fault of a locker, spool , limited slip or a welded spool.

Not sayin its street safe either lol, your point is sound but that example only shows what could happen, not why!

[Zanzer]

That was on a car that saw plenty of track time. No squishy bushings or springs. Regardless, a locker will still immediately pull you one side no matter how the axle lets go.