'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
No need to re-wire. Just get some 4-8 gauge wire from the local car audio place and some new cable ends and change the charging wire going to the battery and probably the 2 bigger grounds coming off of the battery.
And what about the center fusible link/cartridge fuse (40AMP) in fuse box near the battery and associated wiring.
Which I have blown when the battery was low, with the OEM alternator.
Might want to check what else is on that circuit, my manual is not near by.
'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
The stock Capri alt is 70A... how did they manage to double that in the same package? Besides I hardly trust the v-belt with the stock alt let alone one that will require more than double the input power lol
Get the highest quality v belt you can. As for the same package comment, they make high output alternators all the time for car audio nuts. Most of them are expensive because they use high quality bearings and components for max efficiency.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
Scrapped
1991 Blue L 5-speed daily driver, intermittent project
1993 rustless wonder
A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T
No you're missing the point. The stock circuit for all the stock stuff is left in place. Besides, the point of the fuses is to prevent the electronics from drawing more than the alt/ battery can handle. Bigger alt can handle more. I'd trust it probably up to 120 on the 140 alt.
Edit-not on the stock fusebox. On a separate line just from alt to battery. 4 awg Engine & battery grounds would be in order as well.
Yes, I totally get it. But the idea of allowing the system that much current before a fuse pop is ludicrous. Unless you are running some intense car audio mods, you have zero reason to supply your car with a higher current capability than stock. I could see upgrading alternators to lesson the load during hard charging, which should prolong the alts life, but never should your system see higher than stock current ratings with a stock setup.
Not to say that it's wrong to go with 120, but that's a little obscene. Almost like running a 4 inch pipe to your throttle body on a stock setup. is it really going to help
I drive it because I love it. And I do want to run lots of car audio. The system in my last car (2005 escape) with a far larger alt (230 amp) made the lights dim often. I want to transfer the complete setup.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
Scrapped
1991 Blue L 5-speed daily driver, intermittent project
1993 rustless wonder
A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T
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