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  • b3 to b6 questions

    My Aspire only has 120k on it, but a couple of months ago I started getting horrible lifter clack, no really bad! Once it warmed up it would go away,I was due for an oil change any way, so I got clever and used a thin 0-30W full synthetic oil. This did fix the lifter slap, but now I am hemorrhaging oil, from distributor , valve cover, front and rear mains, oil pan and from the cylinder head.
    Since then, Ive done 2 oil changes with delo 400 15/40w but this has barely slowed down the leaks.

    Question one has anyone else had this problem, and if so how did you fix it, I need to buy some time till I get a new motor built.

    Knowing I need a new motor I found a B6 for free with only 30K on it (or so I was told HAHA!) I was tempted to just through it in, but decided to do a quick re-seal. That turned into a quick rebuild (more like 130k without an oil change), and well that turned in to quite a lot more!
    Bored 1mm, Full port and polish, head shaved for 9.7-1 compression, Modified a stainless steel Honda D16 4-2-1 race header, head studs, and a bunch more.....I'm getting close to putting it in the car, The computer engine dyno has my flywheel HP @ 120 and it says I need 15 lb/h injectors instead of the 11 lb/h that came stock on the B6 so

    Question two will Mazda 1.8L BP (what I should have got to start with, yes, but these things snow ball) anyhow will Mazda BP injectors physically fit? Does any one have any good ideas on how to check before I buy?

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Just use a set of Miata 1.6L stock injectors (the blue ones). They are 21lb/hr which is a little bigger than your looking for, but the ECU will be able to correct for that. You'll have to use your stock Festiva injector plugs, not the B6 plugs, but they are a better design anyway.

    P.S. the BP injectors will fit, but they are 24lb.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 01-04-2015, 11:45 AM.
    Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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    • #3
      Just ordered a set of miata blue tops thanks, should give me room to grow if I boost it later on! Any thoughts on stopping my induced oil leaks? Considering STP at this point, leaking a quart per tank of fuel not burning any!

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      • #4
        Check your PCV system. Everything should flow freely out of the crank vents. If that all looks good, then change the VC gasket, front main seal and cam seal. It's honestly not that hard to do and it's probably where most of your oil is going.
        Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
          Check your PCV system. Everything should flow freely out of the crank vents. If that all looks good, then change the VC gasket, front main seal and cam seal. It's honestly not that hard to do and it's probably where most of your oil is going.
          Agree. What looks like oil pan and head leakage is probably just from the valve cover. Also look at doing the disty O-ring, another common leak spot. Total cost for all parts mentioned = ~$35.
          Last edited by TominMO; 01-04-2015, 04:43 PM.
          90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
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