balancing and engine

[Flw Sock]

I'm building up a new engine for my truck. Different pistons and the whole works. I've never had machining work done and I had a question hopefully someone here can answer. Its a 318 magnum engine. I've read its internally balanced. So when I take it to the machine shop, do I take it there bare block with the other parts or do they want it all together? I figured they want it in parts but I'm just making sure. Thanks.

[jbibb1]

Best bet is to call them and ask them exactly how they want it

[Movin]

We strip the engines. We assemble complete. For more money most machine shops will do what you don't want to. Don't be tempted to leave in a sender or nipple or anything. They might get broke or lost. About all I leave for them to do is to use the hot press for wrist pins. They may offer balance and blue print. That is not needed unless this is a high rpm engine.

When it gets back if you are doing the assembly wipe and rinse all machined surfaces with soap and water until there is no more gray coming out. Blow out each bolt hole very well then run a tap on each one to insure all is well. This will insure that 75ft lbs actually clamps as hard as 75 ft lbs did when new and that all clamping forces are equal. When you are done cleaning you can use something to prevent rust.

Don't forget to pack the oil pump with assembly lube or you can use a drill kit to prime the system before installing the disty. Remember to leave the engine at firing position of number one so that you just stab the disty in and it will start with no horsing around. You want it to be ready to run because when you first fire it you have to run it above 2000 rpm for 20 minutes to get a proper cam break in. Dump your break in oil when that is done and you are ready to road test.

[Flw Sock]

What if I dont want them to reassemble it? I just want it balanced along with some other stuff. Looking to spend as least possible. Can I just give them the parts and say do balance etc. But dont reassemble? I thought I had to give them the whole rotating assembly.

[Advancedynamix]

Typically you'll just bring them crank, rods, pistons and pins. They will balance the piston weights, balance the rods and then use the rod big end weight to balance the crank. You can also have the flywheel balanced too if it's a manual. They don't need the block to balance. I've been building engines for 20 years now and I'll tell you first hand that matched and cc'd heads will deliver a smoother running engine than balance work unless you have a bunch of parts from several different engines or something like that.

[Flw Sock]

i'm using lighter pistons and i'll need to bring them the block because i'm having it zero decked, cleaned, etc

I had one other question that I couldn't figure out. What rings and pins do I want? I'm uneducated when it comes to these.
These are the pistons I'll be using: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb167-030 and I might use NOS in the future. What rings/pins should I get?

[Movin]

I've been building engines since 1978 but I bet Advance has more experience with racing engines. With what OP has said we need to know what is expected of this something more than stock engine. The machine shop will need to know anyway, It sounds like your piston to bore clearance is not going to be stock, ring gap will need to be custom set, Pistons may need notched before balancing etc. etc.

You may need more than a reputable machine shop, you may need one that has a good record machining and balancing engines for street - race ?
use.

[Flw Sock]

This build won't require any massaging or knicking of parts. I'm follow a build from hot rod magazine. Here is the article: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...er-318-engine/

This MAY or may not be a street machine

[Movin]

You have already considered a 440 or 400 build and the 318 is better suited for what you want ?

There is a little of one thing leads to another.. A better tranny , better gears, better diff, un ending suspension tuning..tires !

A wreaking yard motor with a blower can be a lot of cheap fun for a bit.

[Flw Sock]

Yes. I already have the 318 torn apart. I just need to know what pins and rings I should use.

[Movin]

Kieth black supplies wrist pins and rings. Summit also sells rod bushings but this is where your machinist should be involved. Your rods need to be inspected and your stock wrist pins might be okay if this is the early 318. If not you will need new rods to go with those pistons..but again you should be talking to your machinist then bounce stuff off of us. There are some very talented experienced guys on here that can help at different stages.

[Flw Sock]

If they give me new pins, I'm going to use the new ones. They are the later model rods, from a 94. Hot Rod said they're plenty strong for the build (but of course I will inspect and make sure they're ok).

Will the rings provided with the pistons be good enough for NOS? How much do you think it will cost to have it balanced all said and done?

When I take everything to the machine shop I don't give them the rings, right? Just: Block, Piston heads, rods, pins, crank, cam?

[Movin]

I might be wrong but I think the full float Kieth black pistons you picked do not fit your rods, the wrist pins are different.

The rings should be fine.

Normally you keep the rings and set the gap if necessary.

You will also need to give the machinist the valve stem seal if you have him grind and assemble.

You keep the cam. Some block prep machinist install soft plugs some don't.

You are doing some decking to get the compression you want ? You may need to have the intake cut for port alignment.

[Flw Sock]

Do I also have to bring them my harmonic balancer? Should I leave it attached to the crank when I bring it to them?

[Advancedynamix]

yes, and yes