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  • shorestiva
    replied
    Capri ecu will not plug into a festiva harness. Run all the festiva fuel injection stuff including the injectors. Use the clutch and flywheel for the transmission you're using. People are having good luck with the exedy clutch kit.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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  • parrainx
    replied
    My ‘91 might be toast, so i’m looking for a Capri to grab B6D out of.

    I think everything is pretty well covered here, but i want to confirm few things.

    Will capri’s ecu plug into the festiva harness? I’d like to run capri injectors and i’m guessing they will be better controlled with capri’s ecu.

    Will be mating it to stock festiva transmission. When buying a new clutch do i get one for festiva or capri?

    Thank you

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  • reddragon
    replied
    Originally posted by RED121 View Post
    Any info of how a b6t from a tx3 laser would go into a mazds 121 db bubble?
    Should be much the same as 121 da or festiva wa. Have a read through some of the garage build threads. Motor will need to be shifted forward to clear brake booster.
    What gearbox you using will probably determine how you go about things.

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  • xXxEpicxXx
    replied
    https://www.amazon.com/Protege-Perfo.../dp/B00JA1BNL0 i know people have cut the flange from a honda header and welded a b6 flange my question is would this header work for the same? its cheap and i think it would be a could try.. just seeing if anyone has used this type of header on the b6d swap

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  • RED121
    replied
    Any info of how a b6t from a tx3 laser would go into a mazds 121 db bubble?

    Leave a comment:


  • reddragon
    replied
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    Camshafts. All the engines share Intake Camshafts, but the exhaust camshafts vary from Automatic transmission, manual transmission and Turbocharged. From my personal testing, I do not recommend using an automatic exhaust camshaft in a B6t, especially in a Festiva. The slight improvement in low end isn't noticeable in such a light car and the auto cam chokes the engine at higher RPM and can promote detonation under higher than factory boost levels.
    I'll have my camshafts out this week to replace valve stem seals. I was thinking of switching my exhaust camshaft (engine is from an auto, late model B6D) for a B6T exhaust camshaft. Just realised that this probably isn't going to work, as my exhaust camshaft drives the distributor.

    As the B6T intake camshaft drives the distributor, can it be used as an exhaust camshaft in the later B6D? If yes, do you think it's worthwhile swapping them over, as opposed to just keeping the B6D automatic exhaust camshaft?

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  • FoMoCoMotion
    replied
    Finally put my "stroker" B5-ZE back in today only to have a massive oil leak at what appears to be the rear main seal - Most of the rebuild kit I used was for a 92 Miata since I was using the Miata crank, rods & pistons. Do you think the rear main seal between the 1.5L Crank and the 1.6L crank could be different??? Man I dread pulling it back out just to replace a seal. But with most of my projects it takes me 3 tries to get anything right LOL :banghead:

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    My head is shaved .020" on Pedro. Anything under .010" won't make much difference as long as the head has not been decked before. I strongly recommend a cometic gasket and ARP studs.
    If more than .010" needs to come off, you will want adjustable cam sprockets to make up the difference in cam timing (or do the slotted idler cheat trick).
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 03-08-2017, 02:18 PM.

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    Any reduction in chamber volume will increase compression. .0050" isn't all that much, you will still be under 9.0:1.

    Personally I'm a big fan of high compression turbos though (10:1+)

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  • TWFodor
    replied
    Charlie, do you know how much of the head can be shaved before causing issues with compression/valve clearance, etc? The head on my xr2 has some gouges in it and needs to be resurfaced. I just don't know how much it will affect the compression. I believe they will need to take off between 5-7 thousandths, but I don't know for sure.

    Ouch. Right on the compression ring.




    Last edited by TWFodor; 03-08-2017, 10:20 AM.

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  • FoMoCoMotion
    replied
    Crank11.jpgCrank12.jpgCrank13.jpgCrank14.jpgCrank15.jpgRods.jpgRods_Crank.jpgRods1.jpgRods2.jpgRods3.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • FoMoCoMotion
    replied
    B5-ZE Crank & Rods:
    Crank.jpgCrank1.jpgCrank2.jpgCrank3.jpgCrank4.jpgCrank6.jpgCrank7.jpgCrank8.jpgCrank9.jpgCrank10.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • firebush357
    replied
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    Arizona, but there are a few members in FL.
    I'm in Jacksonville but most of the other guys are South of Orlando

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Originally posted by ihasmiat? View Post
    Awesome, please any and all information on it would be appreciated. I already read your post about shaving part of the distributor, idle valve (which I don't need here in Florida) bypassed that on my first 1.6 miata.


    Where are you located? If your in Florida I'd love to come hangout and work on some cool festivas?


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Arizona, but there are a few members in FL.

    Leave a comment:


  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Originally posted by FoMoCoMotion View Post
    Joe & Charlie, would either of you be interested in the 1.5L rotating assembly as a partial trade towards a custom strut / shock combo? Thinking of using the 1.6L rotating assembly for ease of replacement parts.
    Possibly. I'd need pictures of the crank and rods first though.

    Leave a comment:

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