Capri ecu will not plug into a festiva harness. Run all the festiva fuel injection stuff including the injectors. Use the clutch and flywheel for the transmission you're using. People are having good luck with the exedy clutch kit.
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My ‘91 might be toast, so i’m looking for a Capri to grab B6D out of.
I think everything is pretty well covered here, but i want to confirm few things.
Will capri’s ecu plug into the festiva harness? I’d like to run capri injectors and i’m guessing they will be better controlled with capri’s ecu.
Will be mating it to stock festiva transmission. When buying a new clutch do i get one for festiva or capri?
Thank you
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Originally posted by RED121 View PostAny info of how a b6t from a tx3 laser would go into a mazds 121 db bubble?
What gearbox you using will probably determine how you go about things.
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https://www.amazon.com/Protege-Perfo.../dp/B00JA1BNL0 i know people have cut the flange from a honda header and welded a b6 flange my question is would this header work for the same? its cheap and i think it would be a could try.. just seeing if anyone has used this type of header on the b6d swap
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Any info of how a b6t from a tx3 laser would go into a mazds 121 db bubble?
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostCamshafts. All the engines share Intake Camshafts, but the exhaust camshafts vary from Automatic transmission, manual transmission and Turbocharged. From my personal testing, I do not recommend using an automatic exhaust camshaft in a B6t, especially in a Festiva. The slight improvement in low end isn't noticeable in such a light car and the auto cam chokes the engine at higher RPM and can promote detonation under higher than factory boost levels.
As the B6T intake camshaft drives the distributor, can it be used as an exhaust camshaft in the later B6D? If yes, do you think it's worthwhile swapping them over, as opposed to just keeping the B6D automatic exhaust camshaft?
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Finally put my "stroker" B5-ZE back in today only to have a massive oil leak at what appears to be the rear main seal- Most of the rebuild kit I used was for a 92 Miata since I was using the Miata crank, rods & pistons. Do you think the rear main seal between the 1.5L Crank and the 1.6L crank could be different??? Man I dread pulling it back out just to replace a seal. But with most of my projects it takes me 3 tries to get anything right LOL :banghead:
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My head is shaved .020" on Pedro. Anything under .010" won't make much difference as long as the head has not been decked before. I strongly recommend a cometic gasket and ARP studs.
If more than .010" needs to come off, you will want adjustable cam sprockets to make up the difference in cam timing (or do the slotted idler cheat trick).Last edited by Advancedynamix; 03-08-2017, 02:18 PM.
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Any reduction in chamber volume will increase compression. .0050" isn't all that much, you will still be under 9.0:1.
Personally I'm a big fan of high compression turbos though (10:1+)
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Charlie, do you know how much of the head can be shaved before causing issues with compression/valve clearance, etc? The head on my xr2 has some gouges in it and needs to be resurfaced. I just don't know how much it will affect the compression. I believe they will need to take off between 5-7 thousandths, but I don't know for sure.
Ouch. Right on the compression ring.
Last edited by TWFodor; 03-08-2017, 10:20 AM.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostArizona, but there are a few members in FL.
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Originally posted by ihasmiat? View PostAwesome, please any and all information on it would be appreciated. I already read your post about shaving part of the distributor, idle valve (which I don't need here in Florida) bypassed that on my first 1.6 miata.
Where are you located? If your in Florida I'd love to come hangout and work on some cool festivas?
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Originally posted by FoMoCoMotion View PostJoe & Charlie, would either of you be interested in the 1.5L rotating assembly as a partial trade towards a custom strut / shock combo? Thinking of using the 1.6L rotating assembly for ease of replacement parts.
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