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  • #16
    Ok I like the idea of wider power band from a TriY(is that the same as a 4-2-1?), so, how do I lay out the setup for it(if it isn't a 4-2-1)? Also, is there a way to calculate collector size and length? Same for final exhaust pipe?
    A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

    Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

    Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

    Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

    FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
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    • #17
      That is a 4-2-1 yes.

      You could use Charlie's specs he posted up there and buy from coneeng.com. Just the collectors for the Tri-Y/4-2-1 would be around $75 from coneeng.com.
      Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.

      Old Blue- New Tricks
      91 Festiva FSM PDF - Dropbox

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      • #18
        I like these posts

        This is good advice!

        Originally posted by bhearts View Post
        You can't go wrong with a 4-1 that's longer than it needs to be, 30+ inches. Obviously a 4-2-1 will have multiple torque peaks, but simplicity sake, I'd stick with 4-1. Plenty of other car groups have plenty of great luck with equal length 4-1. Until you have your engine breathing to it's max, having a header fine tuned to a precise length isn't a huge deal, but anything with quality merge collectors is going to provide enhanced flow over those factory manifolds.

        Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
        Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
        4 to 1 will provide higher peak TQ numbers, depending on the tune length. Try y will give a more broad peak TQ area. Honestly though, the stock setup on these engines is so far from optimal, that it's very easy to make an improvement. A try y with 16" long 1.25" primaries and 21" long 1.75" secondaries, collecting into a 2" pipe for 36" would be about perfect for a 1300cc 2 valve car engine with a target TQ between 3000 and 5500 rpm.
        Most low volume, budget minded header builders will stick to a traditional equal length 4 to 1 because it's the best bang for the buck. Collectors are the most difficult and expensive component in a header, and having 3 of them can drastically increase the cost of the header. Check out "Burns Stainless" website for an example of the commitment that goes into a good collector and you'll see why the value is in the 4 to 1 merge. If you were to use Burns collectors to build a try y you'd have 450 dollars invested in just your collectors. I often use Burns collectors when making 1 or 2 headers because it's cheaper than building 1 or 2 of my own collectors.
        Last edited by drddan; 09-19-2015, 06:06 PM.
        Dan




        Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO

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        • #19
          My FMS Header is a 4 - 2 - 1
          If it don't fit, use a bigger hammer!


          '93 Green L - ' Tiva

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          • #20
            With the option of a rear turbo, a header is a great mod for the future. A header will help with a rear turbo, and it will help if you decide to supercharge your engine. So it's good in every situation.

            Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
              Ok I like the idea of wider power band from a TriY(is that the same as a 4-2-1?), so, how do I lay out the setup for it(if it isn't a 4-2-1)? Also, is there a way to calculate collector size and length? Same for final exhaust pipe?
              Yeah, 36" 2" exit, after the 36" you should step up to a larger diameter . I prefer to exit into a 2.5" resonator. This provides the tune length you desire, without the droning sound of having a tune length end directly under your thin tin box. I use another resonator, after that one, and a well baffled muffler. If you want a race car sound, go without the muffler. I dont suggest leaving out the resonators. The droning hum is really annoying at freeway speeds in these cars.
              Last edited by Advancedynamix; 09-20-2015, 12:06 PM.
              Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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              • #22
                I can say from experience, a header and rear turbo doesn't work as well as one would think. I've learned it's about velocity not volume.

                That being said, my 11 second passes was through a stock festiva exhaust!
                -Greg
                Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
                BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
                Redneck Engineer
                FOTY - '09
                5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by eurotiva View Post
                  I can say from experience, a header and rear turbo doesn't work as well as one would think. I've learned it's about velocity not volume.

                  That being said, my 11 second passes was through a stock festiva exhaust!
                  Wouldnt the header equate to velocity?

                  Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                    Yeah, 36" 2" exit, after the 36" you should step up to a larger diameter . I prefer to exit into a 2.5" resonator. This provides the tune length you desire, without the droning sound of having a tune length end directly under your thin tin box. I use another resonator, after that one, and a well baffled muffler. If you want a race car sound, go without the muffler. I dont suggest leaving out the resonators. The droning hum is really annoying at freeway speeds in these cars.
                    I'm only going to use the header for track days, so, is there any function to header-back? Or should I just dump it under my floor pan? Or out the side? Also, what is "tune length"? What is being tuned? The collector?
                    Last edited by Sid_RallyX_82; 09-24-2015, 03:35 PM.
                    A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

                    Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

                    Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

                    Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

                    FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
                    Instagram: jaredbear82

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
                      I'm only going to use the header for track days, so, is there any function to header-back? Or should I just dump it under my floor pan? Or out the side? Also, what is "tune length"? What is being tuned? The collector?
                      The rpm at which peak extraction occurs. Scavenging.

                      Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                      • #26
                        But it all had to deal with runner length. Collectors are almost primarily efficiency proposed, where the runners length and diameter determine the torque peak

                        Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                        • #27
                          I've read about making a step in the flange to stop reversion. Should I make the holes in the flange the same size as the ports to make the step as big as possible? Also, does the length of the collector affect the torque curve? Or is optimal flow the only concern with collectors? Thanks guys, you've been so much help!
                          A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

                          Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

                          Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

                          Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

                          FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
                          Instagram: jaredbear82

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
                            I've read about making a step in the flange to stop reversion. Should I make the holes in the flange the same size as the ports to make the step as big as possible? Also, does the length of the collector affect the torque curve? Or is optimal flow the only concern with collectors? Thanks guys, you've been so much help!
                            Yes, very much so. Long runners will have better low torque, and shorter runners better high end torque. But I think the biggest factor for torque would be the runner diameter.

                            Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                            • #29
                              The shape of the collector, the diameter of the secondary and the length of the exhaust do affect the tune of the exhaust.
                              Also, most racing organizations don't allow the exhaust to dump under the car ahead of the rear most point of the rear tire. This is pretty standard.
                              Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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                              • #30
                                Picture.

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