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High Performance Clutch Test
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Yup, Dragonhealer has it. It would be nice to have a bolt in option for those of us who just want a little more clamping force. For turbo, the swift clutch is probably the better option, since it's bigger and there are more aggressive disks available if needed. Eventually though, the trans will not agree with more clutch grip. Lol
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I used spec clutches for a few builds and will never buy another . I'm with Greg the swift clutch is a good option . Ian just gave one away in the for sale ,not long ago .
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Originally posted by sketchman View PostI just sand my flywheels. It's never caused an issue on at least 4 installs that I can remember. Mine still grips fine too. Just annoying.
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I just sand my flywheels. It's never caused an issue on at least 4 installs that I can remember. Mine still grips fine too. Just annoying.
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Did your pressure plate require noticably more pedal effort to disengage than the original festiva clutch?
Also, what did you use for a flywheel? I cut mine with the same surface finish as the spec pressure plate. I've learned that trick throughout the years. Too smooth a flywheel will glaze a clutch disk quickly.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 10-20-2015, 07:46 AM.
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Good morning, do I believe that I glazed a Spec clutch disc from all that B6d HP probably not but I do think there is a quality problem, maybe some bad disc material or maybe I received the wrong pressure plate who knows but their customer service was not what I expected, so with that in mind I'm looking somewhere else for my clutch parts.
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The b3 VAF is practically identical to the b6ze miata vaf. In fact, Dragonhealer swapped a festiva VAF onto a miata on the dyno and made slightly more hp than the miata vaf. That was probably just a calibration difference, but it proved the point. The Festiva VAF isn't a restriction until somewhere around 140ft.lbs of tq.
In fact, the entire b3 fuel injection system is very similar to the 1.6L Miata system. The biggest difference is the ignition system. However, the festiva has sequential spark ignition, whilst the miata is wasted spark. Sequential spark is better for boost because there is less chance of burning exhaust valves under boost. With that said, in thoery the Festiva engine management system should be better suited to run boost than the miata system. The same tricks that they use to turbo the 1.6 miata will work on a Festiva.
Let's move this type of discussion to the DOHC B6 thread though, to keep things organized.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 10-20-2015, 06:53 AM.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostWell, the positive side of this is that stock festiva fuel injection will make enough power to glaze a racing clutch. There ya have it! No need to do all the excessive wiring on these swaps guys, the stock electronics will fuel a b6d good enough to torch a spec clutch.
Sent from my SM-G900V using TapatalkLast edited by Advancedynamix; 10-20-2015, 06:57 AM.
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Originally posted by sc72 View PostAfter listening to Charlie explain the advantages of the B6d I pulled the trigger and installed a nice low mile B6d engine, the swap went flawlessly, I purchased a passenger side engine mount from Charlie and used ALL the B3 wiring, so were am I going with this you say, well I also bought a Spec Stage 2 clutch kit and after a 500 mile break in I headed for Chicago, as I merged onto the interstate and powering into 4th gear the engine revved, I can't tell you what I said but what I can tell you is the clutch disc after being removed looks shiny, I talked to Spec and sent them a picture and their comment was, hey that's bad luck you must have done the brake in process incorrectly and would you like for us to send you a new kit. I'm now talking to Kentucky clutch Co, they build competition clutch parts all the way from the B6 parts I need, to supper stock tractors and on up to multi engine tractors, the clutch I asked for would hold up to 150 hp and the cost is $150, I should mention they build ALL clutch parts in house.
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Sign me up Karl! Sorry to hear of your misfortune with the Spec. Mine holds strong, but the chatter is worse than slipping.
Keep us posted on the results with this new clutch.
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Yes, if you want to talk tech with these folks call 502 955 9173 I talked with Shon, good fella to talk with, answered all my questions.
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After listening to Charlie explain the advantages of the B6d I pulled the trigger and installed a nice low mile B6d engine, the swap went flawlessly, I purchased a passenger side engine mount from Charlie and used ALL the B3 wiring, so were am I going with this you say, well I also bought a Spec Stage 2 clutch kit and after a 500 mile break in I headed for Chicago, as I merged onto the interstate and powering into 4th gear the engine revved, I can't tell you what I said but what I can tell you is the clutch disc after being removed looks shiny, I talked to Spec and sent them a picture and their comment was, hey that's bad luck you must have done the brake in process incorrectly and would you like for us to send you a new kit. I'm now talking to Kentucky clutch Co, they build competition clutch parts all the way from the B6 parts I need, to supper stock tractors and on up to multi engine tractors, the clutch I asked for would hold up to 150 hp and the cost is $150, I should mention they build ALL clutch parts in house.
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Originally posted by fastivaca View PostI hope I have better luck with the Spec clutch :neutral:
Ian
Originally posted by sketchman View PostI have one now. I have heard one good review on here, which is why I bought it.
But I too am annoyed now with it. I assumed stiffer mounts would help, but I know I saw Charlie has them already, and still this thread is here.
So what is the cause of it? Too stiff springs in the disc?
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