Power Commender III

[Festiver]

So I originally wanted to do a bp swap with k1 rods weisco pistons 9-1 and steel head gasket and weisco valves (high points of the engine besides that complete overhaul and machine clean up) dual walbro 255s and a xr2 g series with a spec stage 3+ running a twin ko3 turbo setup and megasquirt pnp2 and rx8 injectors being as I'm 17 with a landscaping job making 12per this is a lot of money I don't have I make decent money with the 10-12hr days but not the 5k I'd need to build this so I kinda gave up that dream for now sold one of the two k03s I had and I'm just gonna rering new gaskets timing belt and water pump toss the bp into festiver and call it a day well my cousin who races pro series dirt track brought up that he has a dynojet power commander 3 (designed for cbr600s 4cyl) just laying around which has peaked my interest as if I could get it working with the bp it just splices into the injector harness and modifys the fuel map there's an add on for ignition and another for boost fuel adjustment now say I got this I'd spend 350 maybe 400 (instead of 1700 on new map sensor new tps pnp2 and a tune) I read some forums about people trying it in miatas but there was a question of if it picks up pulse based ignition which is a worry theres isn't really a question in this but advice? Ideas? thoughts? Do you know anyone who has tried? How'd it turn out?

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[Festiver]

Also Charlie you seem to be the go to guy for festiva knowledge any advice on this or if I should just get a rocketman ecu

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[Festiver]

Also my original goal with the twin k03s was 12psi a super reliable daily that would roast the tires any time I wanted it to but now I'd just be happy to have turbo sounds with out cheating with fake turbo stuff like 5 psi just give the engine a little more oomph and turbo sounds [emoji7] I also read online for a cheap turbo ignition timing just retard the amount for your peak boost (obviously to an extent) like I think he retarded the timing 8° atdc which if I could just get by with that and still have a safe daily I'm only spending $170 on engine management I still have a k03 to use and I can fab the exhaust and intake and I have an intercooler already and I don't think I'd need injectors for 5 psi and I need a turbo timer but I feel like I'm skipping crucial turbo needs its late and I'm tired can someone make a list of needed bp turbocharging items I know
Turbo
Intercooler
Intake piping
Exhaust mani
Waste gate (built in ko3)
Fmu
Injectors if its needed
Ignition timing
Oil lines
Coolant lines (k03 is water cooled)
Timer (not needed but helpful)
Afr and boost gauges
Wideband 02 (can someone explain reasoning and such)
Idk what else


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[Team Lightning]

Wideband monitors your air fuel ratios. You use it to adjust your air fuel mixture.

[Festiver]

Wideband monitors your air fuel ratios. You use it to adjust your air fuel mixture.

Thank you for the fast response so does it monitor better than narrow band what's the difference

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[FestYboy]

Standard O2 runs on a .8-1 volt range, and a wide band runs a 5 volt range. So it really just comes down to resolution of the sensor. The wider the voltage range, the better the resolution (accuracy).

[Festiver]

Standard O2 runs on a .8-1 volt range, and a wide band runs a 5 volt range. So it really just comes down to resolution of the sensor. The wider the voltage range, the better the resolution (accuracy).

Ohhhhhh ok thank you

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[Advancedynamix]

I'm pretty sure that you would need to run the fuel injection from the CBR in order for the power commander to work. If that were the case, you'd be better off with a system from a bigger bike so that your VE will be a better match (more accurate fuel and ignition baseline). This is not a bad idea, but may a bit advanced for a beginner. You'd really need a dyno (preferably crank dyno) to tune that sort of thing correctly.
If I were you, I'd save up and have Shadetree help you with a B6d swap with the goal of turbo in the future.

[Festiver]

I'm pretty sure that you would need to run the fuel injection from the CBR in order for the power commander to work. If that were the case, you'd be better off with a system from a bigger bike so that your VE will be a better match (more accurate fuel and ignition baseline). This is not a bad idea, but may a bit advanced for a beginner. You'd really need a dyno (preferably crank dyno) to tune that sort of thing correctly.
If I were you, I'd save up and have Shadetree help you with a B6d swap with the goal of turbo in the future.

So far it's kinda been see a good price get it like the bp I have I got for $190 I actually already bought the adapter between the bp and xr2 g series so it'd kinda be a shame I'm also buying another festiva soon because I need a winter car the one I'm driving I'll probably make the winter car and get a better rust free festiva I have my harness almost setup for the bp maybe ill just have a bp swapped winter car and do a z series swap in my summer/autox car I really want a reliable rev happy 250hp car but that being said "reliable" and "rev happy" is either extremely expensive or not possible and b6d sounds awesome but idk you said it's not as balanced as the jdm z series engines I really am not sure what's the best approach thanks tho

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[Festiver]

Also I can get the power commander for free I'd just need the boost add on

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[FestYboy]

Being rev happy is just a matter of keeping the mass in down in key areas, and proper valve control/piston speed management. Bikes are a good example of this (many 1000cc bikes rev over 15k.) And they are reliable.

[Festiver]

Being rev happy is just a matter of keeping the mass in down in key areas, and proper valve control/piston speed management. Bikes are a good example of this (many 1000cc bikes rev over 15k.) And they are reliable.

That's true but honestly I'm only aiming for 8k which isn't super high over stock but I don't want the engine to be stressed I want it to comfortably do 8k without worrying

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[Advancedynamix]

In order to have a happy and reliable B series engine that is regularly pushed over 8k, you'll need to do a lot more than lighten and balance a few things. These engines aren't designed for that. They are harmonically unstable above 6500rpm. An ATI damper does wonders and there are a few internal tricks that we have had luck with.
You definitely don't want to build a high rpm BP. They are a great mid range engine, but running them past 7200 is a recipe for trouble.
The zl-de (jdm 1.5 dohc) is a better choice from what I can tell. I've got one that I need to tear into in order to see what I'm working with. It's got the same bore as the b6, but a shorter stroke. This is a step in the right direction for stability at higher revs.
As far as I know, you can't just wire a power commander into anything, it doesn't work like that. It's a device that piggybacks the factory ECU and fools it into being tunable. It is specific to the ecu it was meant for. I don't know if there is enough tunability with a power commander to tune a 600 system to run an 1800 engine with a drastically different TQ curve. I'm not going to tell you that it's impossible (I've seen crazier things happen) but it's very far fetched.
If you have a BP and a g15mr already then put it in and enjoy it stock. You'll have a blast. Put a simple turbo on it and make 220hp and enjoy having a better power to weight ratio than almost every car on the road while still being able to carry lots of crap in the back and park in any spot you find.
A wide TQ curve with extremely high Rev limit is what these cars need to be unbeatable at the track. Heck, I could have passed way more cars in Tweak with an 8k rpm peak. But, for the street or autocross 6200 is just fine if your gearing and tire size is correct.

[Festiver]

In order to have a happy and reliable B series engine that is regularly pushed over 8k, you'll need to do a lot more than lighten and balance a few things. These engines aren't designed for that. They are harmonically unstable above 6500rpm. An ATI damper does wonders and there are a few internal tricks that we have had luck with.
You definitely don't want to build a high rpm BP. They are a great mid range engine, but running them past 7200 is a recipe for trouble.
The zl-de (jdm 1.5 dohc) is a better choice from what I can tell. I've got one that I need to tear into in order to see what I'm working with. It's got the same bore as the b6, but a shorter stroke. This is a step in the right direction for stability at higher revs.
As far as I know, you can't just wire a power commander into anything, it doesn't work like that. It's a device that piggybacks the factory ECU and fools it into being tunable. It is specific to the ecu it was meant for. I don't know if there is enough tunability with a power commander to tune a 600 system to run an 1800 engine with a drastically different TQ curve. I'm not going to tell you that it's impossible (I've seen crazier things happen) but it's very far fetched.
If you have a BP and a g15mr already then put it in and enjoy it stock. You'll have a blast. Put a simple turbo on it and make 220hp and enjoy having a better power to weight ratio than almost every car on the road while still being able to carry lots of crap in the back and park in any spot you find.
A wide TQ curve with extremely high Rev limit is what these cars need to be unbeatable at the track. Heck, I could have passed way more cars in Tweak with an 8k rpm peak. But, for the street or autocross 6200 is just fine if your gearing and tire size is correct.

You said "put a simple turbo on"? Will a bp and bp10 ecu run like 3-5 psi without add on engine management? I'm thinking now about doing the zl swap on the festiva im looking into buying as it's in perfect shape ill make that a summer track based so thatll have a much bigger budget vs. the winter car also I looked into how the PC works it just uses the injector wires tps and rpm and fattens or leans out the original signal or with the boost add on itll give the amount of fuel you want per psi and such the only part that's missing would be ignition retarding

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[william]

You said you have a adapter plate for the bp to g series? It's bolt up no plate needed.
As for low boost 12.1 fmu.
I don't have much knowledge with boosted engines but someone can help here I'm sure.