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  • Festiver
    replied
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    If you want your axles to be centered properly and your engine to sit nice and parallel in the engine bay, you'll need to clearance the drivers frame rail when you install a G series transmission. Where, all depends on your mounts. In this picture, you can see where I pounded the frame in about a half inch with a torch and a sledge hammer. There are several layers of steel in the frame, which makes it really hard to pound in.
    Thank you so much haha the missing link of info

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    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-19-2016, 07:42 AM.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    If you want your axles to be centered properly and your engine to sit nice and parallel in the engine bay, you'll need to clearance the drivers frame rail when you install a G series transmission. Where, all depends on your mounts. In this picture, you can see where I pounded the frame in about a half inch with a torch and a sledge hammer. There are several layers of steel in the frame, which makes it really hard to pound in.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-19-2016, 07:42 AM.

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  • Festiver
    replied
    Originally posted by bhearts View Post
    No idea. Hopefully something else chimes in

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    Hopefully

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  • bhearts
    replied
    Originally posted by Festiver View Post
    Yeah I was expecting to do the driver rail but i gotta research more huh? Haha

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    No idea. Hopefully something else chimes in

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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  • Festiver
    replied
    Originally posted by bhearts View Post
    But if you can't get a bp/g to fit in your frame rails then you can mark it for cutting

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    Yeah I was expecting to do the driver rail but i gotta research more huh? Haha

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  • bhearts
    replied
    Originally posted by Festiver View Post
    Yeah yeah I do actually I'f I move forward I have more pully clearance

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    But if you can't get a bp/g to fit in your frame rails then you can mark it for cutting

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  • Festiver
    replied
    Originally posted by bhearts View Post
    Aren't you wanting to g swap? And move the engine forward

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    Yeah yeah I do actually I'f I move forward I have more pully clearance

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  • bhearts
    replied
    Originally posted by Festiver View Post


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    Aren't you wanting to g swap? And move the engine forward

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    Last edited by bhearts; 07-18-2016, 10:09 PM.

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  • Festiver
    replied


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  • Festiver
    replied
    Originally posted by bhearts View Post
    I see the issue. You can't test fit to mark for clearances if you can't get the engine to fit

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    ? The engine fits it's mounted I'm easily confused sorry

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  • bhearts
    replied
    Originally posted by Festiver View Post
    Right now it's bp E swapped and the alternator is super close but not touching do you think the trans location changes left to right? Thatd be a shame engine looks so good where it is

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    I see the issue. You can't test fit to mark for clearances if you can't get the engine to fit

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  • Festiver
    replied
    Originally posted by bhearts View Post
    I think is precisely why you'd want to test fit it first.

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    Right now it's bp E swapped and the alternator is super close but not touching do you think the trans location changes left to right? Thatd be a shame engine looks so good where it is

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  • bhearts
    replied
    Originally posted by Festiver View Post
    Idk honestly I know if you use the bp crank pulley vs. the b3 you have to notch the passenger side

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    I think is precisely why you'd want to test fit it first.

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  • Festiver
    replied
    Originally posted by bhearts View Post
    Isn't it usually the passenger side that gets notched on that configuration?

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    Idk honestly I know if you use the bp crank pulley vs. the b3 you have to notch the passenger side

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  • bhearts
    replied
    Originally posted by Festiver View Post
    I'm doing a bp g swap

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    Isn't it usually the passenger side that gets notched on that configuration?

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