Turbo on a stock fi b3?

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Is a GT12 too small? Like a 124 or something?

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Try a gt1752 from a Saab 9-3. Cheap as dirt, good turbo and a realy nice internal wastegate to keep things under control. If you stay modest with the boost, avoid detonation at all cost and keep in mind that this engine was never intended for boost, you'll probably get some mileage out of it. Most people get greedy and find new ways to ventilate the block, but that's not just a b3 problem, lol.

Is that for a 2.0L? How high is that boost threshold gonna be on a 1.3? I'm looking for something that will spool around 3k. In the range of 5psi, 90-120cfm

[Festiver]

Well you can get it from a sandwich adapter by the filter, teeing off the stock pressure sensor or possibly a port on the oil pump. Im not sure about the oil pump and i just took those photos off my phone last night
I would use a strong abrasion resistant hydraulic hose for the turbo oil feed from the sandwich adapter and then slide a larger silicon hose over it to protect it more. Then ziptie it so it cant move around to places it can get cut or burnt. This is the adapter i got. It has 3x 1/8npt ports on it. I now have my bypass filter, mechanical oil pressure and oil temperature gauge plugged into it with the dummy sensor in the stock location.


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Hmm I'll probably take a similar route to you then so I can also run gauges and such along with the turbo feed it just seems theres gotta be a more professional approach somewhere for the feed

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[ricko1966]

Thank you for clarifiying all the differences instead of just saying just use one of these don't bother using what you already have. It helps us that don't understand all the differences yet. Now I know why to not bother going 16v or boost on my engine.FWIW we use to boost basically stock 8v VW's with no issue and adding under piston oilers was easy we did that to na motors. But I am rapidlly learning these are a completly different animal. Serously I have 3 old VW days turbos laying around and was going to go blow thru on a carby just for fun but not now. Thanks again.

The SOHC engines are weaker in virtually every aspect. The cranks are single throw counterbalanced, which is a problem when severe loads are placed on the engine (inline 4 cylinder engines are much more prone to harmonic related failures than most other configurations, therefore the crank design and weight is critical). The piston pin design, rod design and piston designs are all much less durable for aggressive driving. The oil pump on the SOHC engines is smaller. The SOHC engines don't have oil squirters under the pistons. Contrary to some tuners advice, oil squirters are very beneficial to turbocharged engines. They help reduce hot spots on the pistons, they help cool and lubricate the pistons and small end rod bearings. Oil squirters also supply a constant film of oil under the pistons which helps dampen harmonics that can lead to cracks in the piston skirts. I prefer to turbocharge engines with oil squirters under the pistons.

You don't need to find a b6t. The Miata 1.6 is very close to the same engine. An automatic Miata 1.6 is a really good start.
Throwing a turbo on anything can be a good time, but it's better to start off with a stronger engine. The SOHC b series engines were not created equal to the race bred dohc b6 or Bp engines.

[Sid_RallyX_82]

I dont know why- but most lower end cars of that era were around there. This was obd1 and the first fuel injection. I mean the carbed cars were 54hp with the same size motor right? But that volumetric efficiency was about on par for the time. I mean a 7.3L diesel engine made 400ft pounds of torque back then. Now their getting 900ft pounds out of 6L motors

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I just checked VE at torque peak. 86% @3,000RPM
Makes sense

[ryanprins13]

I need oil and coolant feed I think I know coolant though and I didn't really want to do the pressure sensor T and have the line travel around the entire engine I'm gonna read that thread kore

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Well you can get it from a sandwich adapter by the filter, teeing off the stock pressure sensor or possibly a port on the oil pump. Im not sure about the oil pump and i just took those photos off my phone last night
I would use a strong abrasion resistant hydraulic hose for the turbo oil feed from the sandwich adapter and then slide a larger silicon hose over it to protect it more. Then ziptie it so it cant move around to places it can get cut or burnt. This is the adapter i got. It has 3x 1/8npt ports on it. I now have my bypass filter, mechanical oil pressure and oil temperature gauge plugged into it with the dummy sensor in the stock location.


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[Festiver]

What exactly do you want to know? Oil feed line for the turbo? What do you need to know about the coolant?

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I need oil and coolant feed I think I know coolant though and I didn't really want to do the pressure sensor T and have the line travel around the entire engine I'm gonna read that thread kore

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[ryanprins13]

Yeah my guess is that it's because the cam profile and tune are so strongly based for economy and low end

But since were on the b3t topic again does anyone have a guide for oil and coolant lines my searches arent really getting anything on tapatalk I'm gonna try the website now

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Lots of good info here

https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showt...urbo+oil+lines

What exactly do you want to know? Oil feed line for the turbo? What do you need to know about the coolant?

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[ryanprins13]

Is this right?
Displacement: 1.3L; in cubic ft: ~0.045909
Factory rated HP peak: 63 @5,000rpm

Rough formula for potential HP by RPM and displacement (VE=1):
CFM/1.427=Potential HP

CFM=(Displacement)(RPM of peak HP) / 2 [because 4stroke cycle]

CFM=0.045909x5,000RPM/2
CFM=114.7725

PHP=114.7725/1.427
Potential HP for a 1.3L engine @5,000RPM = 80.4
VE = ActualHP/PotentialHP
VE= 63/80.4
VE=0.78

That's a REALLY low VE... Is that the reason for better torque? Better VE at lower rpm?

I dont know why- but most lower end cars of that era were around there. This was obd1 and the first fuel injection. I mean the carbed cars were 54hp with the same size motor right? But that volumetric efficiency was about on par for the time. I mean a 7.3L diesel engine made 400ft pounds of torque back then. Now their getting 900ft pounds out of 6L motors

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[Festiver]

Yeah my guess is that it's because the cam profile and tune are so strongly based for economy and low end

But since were on the b3t topic again does anyone have a guide for oil and coolant lines my searches arent really getting anything on tapatalk I'm gonna try the website now

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Lots of good info here

https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?47287-B3-T-swap-(My-parts-arrived)/page5&highlight=B3+turbo+oil+lines

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Is this right?
Displacement: 1.3L; in cubic ft: ~0.045909
Factory rated HP peak: 63 @5,000rpm

Rough formula for potential HP by RPM and displacement (VE=1):
CFM/1.427=Potential HP

CFM=(Displacement)(RPM of peak HP) / 2 [because 4stroke cycle]

CFM=0.045909x5,000RPM/2
CFM=114.7725

PHP=114.7725/1.427
Potential HP for a 1.3L engine @5,000RPM = 80.4
VE = ActualHP/PotentialHP
VE= 63/80.4
VE=0.78

That's a REALLY low VE... Is that the reason for better torque? Better VE at lower rpm?

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Found this calulator in a YouTube video
Does anyone happen to know the Volumetric Efficiency of an unmodified b3?
And the VE of a cleaned-up/polished b3?

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Also interested in a low boost b3, but I get lost in all the numbers and flanges and A/Rs... Could I get a quick breakdown?

[eurotiva]

Ive never used an fmu before... anybody know what ratio to use? 6:1?

I used a 12:1

[JoelRowntree]

Ive never used an fmu before... anybody know what ratio to use? 6:1?