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Clearing up VICS confusion

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  • Clearing up VICS confusion

    After doing some digging around on clubprotege, I have found there is allot of confusion on the VICS system. But thankfully thanks to FE3-323 on Clubprotege, he has explained to me how the VICS system actually works.

    First off, when you ziptie the actuator, or apply vacuum directly to the actuator for the VICS butterfly valves, you are actually CLOSING the valves, not opening them. This is why everyone thinks their BP swap is "less lazy" or has "more power" when you ziptie them, or just apply vacuum directly, but it ISN'T because they are being held open, because they are actually CLOSED, because if those valves are actually opened all the time, you basically have NOtorque at all until 3k RPM.



    Here is how FE3-323 on clubprotege explained it to me.


    "vics is vacuum controlled. it pulls initial high vacuum and stores it. at a preset RPM the solenoid is triggered once again opening up the flow. given vacuum is variable*********(key point)
    higher RPM has less vacuum. so the pressure differential allows the butterflies to open.

    by connecting it directly to vacuum port bypassing the oem system you are essentially making the butterflies flutter open at a variable rate constant of that to your vacuum level, I.E. rev the car & watch what the actuator does.
    its a horrible idea for any NA car & will hurt performance.

    unless you are changing intake manifolds entirely, leave the VICS system OEM or you will lose performance.(this has been show repeatedly through dyno time)
    hope this helps "
    1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
    2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
    1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

  • #2
    from a ford technician training supplement:





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    • #3
      Great thread
      91 Festiva BP Autocross/Track/Rallycross hopeful
      14 C7 Z51

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