b6-me swap concerns

[wack]

Hi guys . I have a manual , 89' carby b3 and have just pulled out the motor and box and leaving the 5 speed manual in .

I'm putting in a what I think is from an automatic , carby b6-me from a 1995 323 protoge. It is a single cam , 16 valve b6.

Just checking a few things before I go any further.

I serched the forum and I am going to use the b3 fly wheel and starter motor? The b6 has the starter motor off the engine not the gear box , Does that seem right engine?

Also looking for an engine numbet the b6. I have found the tab on the back of the block with the b6 stamp, it also has 6 numbers below it . Mazda australia seems to think that it needs 3 more numbers to be an engine number .

Thank you for your time guys . Looking forward to when I can get back on the road.

[FestYboy]

Use the flywheel and starter for the trans you plan to use, not the engine.

[Rick the Quick]

Mr Festyboy is correct as usual. Being that you are putting a carby engine into a carby body it should be an easy plug and play conversion. I'm running '95 B6ME out of a Kia and it has fuel injection with an intake that sits darn close to the firewall. I don't imagine you will have any clearance issues. I was able to use the steel coolant bypass piping and the water outlet from the B3. They will bolt right up to the B6 allowing you to retain all your stock radiator/heater hoses. I was also able to wallow out the holes in the B3 exhaust down pipe and make it fit the B6 exhaust manifold. Of course if you have the B6 down pipe that will make it even easier. You will be very pleased when you get 'er in.......Cheers.

[wack]

Thanks guys. I supose when I saw the starter in 2 possibly different spots I got a bit worried that I bought the wrong engine.

Rick, I'm not lucky enough to hook up the 121 j pipe . On mine the 3 bolt flange on the exhaust manifold is backwards. Looks like a trip to the wreckers is in order. What did you have to use the spiggot bearing - are they the same b6/b3?

[Dragonhealer]

As far as I have found, all B series use the same spigot bearing; 6202

[Rick the Quick]

You can use the B3 down pipe if you cut it a few inches down from the flange. You need to cut it cleanly, a chop saw works best. Once you have cut the pipe rotate the pipe until it is pointed in the right direction and mark the two pieces and weld them together. Actually if you look at the vertical run of the down pipe you will also notice that where it curves to go under the engine it is sitting lower then it needs to be by several inches. You may want to take a couple inches out of the vertical run before you weld it to the upper flange. This way the down pipe will be up high enough so you wont scrape it on anything when you off roading at 2 am. At the other end of the pipe where it connects to the converter I had an alignment issue. This was solved by welding in a flex pipe. I cut the down pipe right after it came down and made the bend towards the back of the car and welded in the flex pipe. I did a little bit of measuring and cut the original converter end off the B3 pipe and welded it onto the new flex pipe. If your measuring is accurate you can bolt the converter to your newly fabricated down pipe. If you can't weld it, any competent muffler shop should be able to help you out. They may also tell you the B3 pipe will not fit the B6 engine. It will fit if you wallow the holes out. Just make sure you use slightly larger washers when you bolt it to the manifold because you will be taking off a lot of material from the flange in order to make it fit. My explanation may have been hard to understand but when you get to doing the job it all makes sense. No rocket science here! I'm not sure what you mean by "spiggot bearing". If you are talking about the clutch throw out bearing you will use the one from the original transmission/clutch.......Cheers.

[wack]

Dragonhealer, thanks mate. You just saved me 20 phone calls, everyone down here wants vin numbers ect.

Rick. your explanation made perfect sense, thanks mate.
I have a wreckers 2 minute walk up the road from where the car is , so I will have a quick look before I get the mig out. Eventually I'm going to build a full stainless exhaust for it (boilermaker by trade) but at least want to run her for a bit while saving for the pipe bends. I'm also getting my provisional car licence in the next few months - been riding 150hp bikes for 20 years and its my first car, so bills. .

[Dragonhealer]

If pipe bends are as expensive there as they are here, you might consider getting a used stainless exhaust from a later model car in the diameter you wish to use, and cut what you need!

[wack]

dragonhealer , thanks mate . Will look into cutting/shutting used ones , seems to be the right price.

One question , does anyone one know where the 2 vacuum lines off the distributor go on a weber set up?
My b3 only had a single line .
Because the b6-me came on a pallet, the lines were missing. I have checked vacuum diagrams and can't make sense .
I'm assuming it is a case of 1 before and 1 after the butterfly or does one go to the feed back crud?