Custom Vgate shifter

[Festiver]

So im drawing up some plans for a custom shifter itll do away with the H pattern and give me a I pattern with a pull tabs for 1st + 2nd and 5th + R itll be a nice addition to the custom side of the car plus shorten my gear slammin times ill post things as i go ill post finished parts vs my scribbles im hoping start
to making parts late friday

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[ryanprins13]

Cool! Got any drawings you want to post before friday? I cant picture how it would work. [emoji14]

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[Festiver]

Cool! Got any drawings you want to post before friday? I cant picture how it would work. [emoji14]

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Its different from all of the other setups ive seen ill post my drawings tomorrow a lil tough to read tho lol


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[Eviljimchicken]

This will be sick if you make it work! Can't wait to see those drawings

[Festiver]

A: is a heim joint with a ground 12mm shoulder bolt this allows the shift rod to only be manipulated in a forward and reverse fashion (what we want)

B: heim joints on either side with ground 12mm shoulder bolt this limits the shift rod to only "forward and reverse" axis of movement with very tight tolerences there will be no slop and long wear life

C: a spring return system for allowing finger eyelets to retract as the opposite is pulled, the action happen on the clocking wheel (section 1-2)

there will be 2 eyelets at the top of the shifter the left eyelet when pulled will clock the shift rod counterclockwise as if tilting the factory shifter to the left this will engage the options of 1st and 2nd which will be the normal forward and reverse action

The right eyelet will clock the shift rod clockwise giving the options of 5th and reverse

As one eyelet is pulled by the driver the reaction will be the other eyelet is pulled to the wheel via steel cables (bicycle brake cables) this gives the need for a spring return system for the eyelets

D: bicycle brake cables will be perfect for this with their casings to guide the cables

E: im not certain if the 3" wheel will be enough leverage to turn the rod with one finger i might have to opt for a 5"

F: brackets to hold the bicycle cable casings in the correct location for a reliable shift

G: there will be 2 eyelets connected to the cables held in the return block

H: the clock wheel will have a groove the diameter of the cable this keeps the cable centered and straight while being looped crimped and bolted to the bottom of the wheel

The actions of using this system from a stop:

Pull and hold left eyelet
Push shifter forward this is first gear

Pull and hold left eyelet (if not already)
Pull shifter back into second

Without pulling either eyelet push shifter back forward this is 3rd

Pull shifter back again pulling no eyelet this is 4th

Pull right eyelet push forward this is 5th

Reverse will be a pain pulling goinginto first then reverse (right eyelet and back) but gotta sacrifice to gain

If theres any questions feel free to ask




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[reddragon]

With reverse being a pain, would it be worth trying to isolate reverse onto it's own, separate control? ie. a much shorter shifter so it's out of the way, or a button/lever that you need to push or pull before it will engage.

[Festiver]

With reverse being a pain, would it be worth trying to isolate reverse onto it's own, separate control? ie. a much shorter shifter so it's out of the way, or a button/lever that you need to push or pull before it will engage.

Being a single rod trans it'd be more of a pain then its worth to isolate reverse from 5th its already impossible for reverse to be come an issue

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[mikemounlio]

I have been working on an idea just like this for my e153 swap. I am using a gear and pawl on each side of a housing. The two different gears allow the unit to rotate both clockwise and counter clock wise without the need for a lever to be pulled or a button to be pressed. Inside tye housing there is a drum with 2 different cam profiles. A lever is mounted to to housing and rides on the cam profiles. One lever for my left cable one for the right. Left cable has 3 positions (left [1&2], mid [3&4], right [5&r]. Thr right cable has just 2 that rotate. One for the 1, 3, & 5 as well as one other position for 2, 4, & r. As the driver pulls or pushes the shift lever forward or backwards the drum indexes selecting a new cam profile. The lifterswill be mounted to another arm that is in a track on one end and free on the other giving a true in out operation. I have the models all worked out im just going over them to fine tune them before i send dxf's off to get cut out.

[mikemounlio]

Once i have the e153 version complete i will rework the unit for the g series. It will require only one cam profile.

[mikemounlio]

Early on concept models!

https://i.imgur.com/aMj3b7i.jpg

[Festiver]

Im confused of how it will unlock to return? Could you draw up the movements?

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