Megasquirt bp hall effect conversion vs cas

[Festiver]

So im converting to coil on plug ls2 coils im not sure to convert to hall effect or stick with cas anyone knowledgeable have advice?

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[monkeykiller1996]

I have ls2 coils on my b6d+t and I use a 36-1 crank trigger wheel but I'm going to be using the Miata cas when redue it. The trigger really doesn't matter in terms of the coils unless your trying to do sequential spark ignition

[shorestiva]

Use 36-1 crank trigger way more accurate than cas. Add 1 tooth cam sensor if you want sequential.

[Festiver]

I have ls2 coils on my b6d+t and I use a 36-1 crank trigger wheel but I'm going to be using the Miata cas when redue it. The trigger really doesn't matter in terms of the coils unless your trying to do sequential spark ignition

I'm going to run a wasted spark 1-3 2-4 I'm not sure the specific terms but why wouldn't it matter or is it just the accuracy isn't needed and cas will do

Use 36-1 crank trigger way more accurate than cas. Add 1 tooth cam sensor if you want sequential.

I bought the trigger wheel and threaded hall sensor this morning how do you have yours setup I've heard it needs to be parallel to the teeth on the trigger wheel or can it be perpendicular

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[shorestiva]

CAS trigger setups aren't as accurate at higher rpms. Since its driven of the camshaft which is driven by a belt that can sightly stretch it can cause your spark timing to move around. Crank trigger setups eliminate all that since you don't have the timing belt in the middle of all that. Also the 36 tooth adds to the accuracy since it has less time between teeth. Most new oem stuff uses 64 teeth now.


Ignore the funky wheel in the pic but it shows where the sensor should be in relation to the wheel. There's a oem bolt on wheel and sensor setup that will position everything correctly.

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[Festiver]

CAS trigger setups aren't as accurate at higher rpms. Since its driven of the camshaft which is driven by a belt that can sightly stretch it can cause your spark timing to move around. Crank trigger setups eliminate all that since you don't have the timing belt in the middle of all that. Also the 36 tooth adds to the accuracy since it has less time between teeth. Most new oem stuff uses 64 teeth now.


Ignore the funky wheel in the pic but it shows where the sensor should be in relation to the wheel. There's a oem bolt on wheel and sensor setup that will position everything correctly.

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That does make sense on timing it's in the mail now I have enough fitment issues with the b3 crank pulley on the bp putting on a belt is a real squeeze it's gonna be a challenge fitting everything

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[shorestiva]

If you don't have enough room for one mounted in the outside of the pulley.

https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/oem-36-1-wheel-64544/

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[Festiver]

If you don't have enough room for one mounted in the outside of the pulley.

https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/oem-36-1-wheel-64544/

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That definitely looks like the plan to go with mounting it to the hub of the inner pulley and my mounting arm will be stiffer too

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